Ground clearance at rear of a 3124

Does anyone know or know how to find out the "nominal" ground clearance for a 2009 3124KS (I am really interested in bumper clearance)? I want to get a generator and since I am very limited on space, for storage, I want to set the generator down at the very rear of the garage and then back the TM over it (assuming I have enough bumper/bottom panel clearance. This will require that I have 24.3" clearance between the lowest point on the TM and the garage floor.


I know that lifting blocks could possibly be used, but I also want to keep the towing charcterists as close to the nominal design as possible.


Thanks for any input you may have!

Thanks!

[rickst29]

Originally Posted by wbyrum

This will require that I have 24.3" clearance between the lowest point on the TM and the garage floor....

wbyrum, the center of the bumper on my 2619 (built with 2124 axle/wheels/tires) is barely 19" off the floor. I avoided the lift kit, which is now standard, but there's no way that you'll be tall enough. And if you lifted the TM by that much, you might need to replace your garage door, and it might be much less stable in towing.

OTOH, you could back in the TM *FIRST*, raise it way up on the lifts, and then roll your generator in underneath (I hope it's on wheels already, because a dolly underneath will add even more inches to your problem ). There's some bumper support structure which hangs down a few more inches at each end of the bumper (at the rear corners of the TM), but you could probably raise enough to overcome even that.

Liftco makes both a 20" version and a 24" version of our lifts, I thin that TM uses the short ones. But it's a VERY easy replacement to swap in tall ones for the rear of your TM. And if you put down one or two solid concrete "garden wall" construction blocks first, you'll have TONS of extra height at the rear-- since you don't run the Fridge or A/C in this storage location, I'll SWAG that it's OK to store the TM off-level (with the rear way up). Bilge tanks empty, of course. Maybe someone more expert on thses systems can chime in on that.

But clearly, the TM doesn't roll while it's up on the lifts (either with or without extra concrete blocks under the Liftco feet). So I think you need to put the TM in place first, then raise it on the lifts, then roll the generator in afterwards.

You will need some distance from the sidewall to turn the Liftcos, unless you're clever: my monster drill (with allen wrench into the liftco) is less than half as long as the manual handle, I can get by with only about 8 inches away. If you want to get it REALLY close, you can use an allen wrench in the liftco and a ratcheting socket wrench handle to spin it. But I've tried getting too close before, and I've had to replace one of the exterior night lights as a result.

How about backing the wheels up a ramp of sorts, while keeping the tongue as low as possible.

Chap

Originally Posted by Bill

Search engine to the rescue! Take a look at Ripp1202's post at

http://www.trailmanorowners.com/foru...615&#post16615

Bill

If this web site was to show a (lift kit) I got no such picture.

[Bill]

Any chance that you could roll the TM inside, then raise the front up really high on the jack, and then roll the generator under the front of the TM? I'm not sure how much ground clearance there could be under the front, and my TM is in storage at the moment so I can't measure it. But maybe ...

Bill

My 2009 3124kb has less than 14" of clearance to the rear "bike receptacle" when the TM is level. If you don't have that receptacle, the clearance is less than 17" to the bottom of the bumper. That's a lot of height to make up. Bill's suggestion of raising the front seems easier. If you don't have a swing hitch, isn't there enough room in front next to the hitch frame?