Toilet replacement

[rich2468]

Originally Posted by Choper101

Pms ???

"Poor Man's Sealand"
- you buy the toilet and a separate small black water tank to build your own combined unit.

Search the forum for additional details.

[Wavery]

Originally Posted by Choper101

It is looking like this really the only option unless you want to spend big money installing a black tank. I have found the tank but which toilet to mount to it?

How are you with working with fiberglass? You could build your own custom tank, in place. That's what I did and I ended up with a 13.5G tank. I installed a normal RV toilet on top of the tank.

[Choper101]

Oustanding, so you vented out the side and water from the sink. Very clean, I like that you can cut drain hole right over whole in floor. Never worked with fiberglass is there other alternatives?

[Wavery]

Originally Posted by Choper101

Oustanding, so you vented out the side and water from the sink. Very clean, I like that you can cut drain hole right over whole in floor. Never worked with fiberglass is there other alternatives?

F/G is easy IF the person knows what he/she is doing. This isn't the time/place to practice. It VERY messy and there isn't much room to work in there.

An option might be to find a fiberglass fabricator and provide him with a drawing of exactly what you want, including sloped bottom and drain hole. The fabricator could build a drop in tank, ready for an RV toilet to be installed. It would be costly but if you can find enough people that want the same tank, it could be done. The hardest work would be in a mold. Once the mold is made, duplicates are easy. If you could find 20 TM owners that are willing to pay around $500 per tank, you may find a fabricator that is interested. There is actually a market for hundreds of those tanks, I believe.

That Sealand toilet was about $800 each and a lot of TM owners bought them. They only held 9G and the toilet itself is not the best. My F/G fabrication holds 13.5G and a $200 standard RV toilet fit perfectly.

[Choper101]

Your finished unit looks great. would you be willing to share measurements of the box and list of other parts you used. I am not sure if all models of TM have the same measurements between bathtub and sink cabinet. If they are all the same I could get a head start on this project. I am not sure which model I am going to wind up with.

[Wavery]

Originally Posted by Choper101

Your finished unit looks great. would you be willing to share measurements of the box and list of other parts you used. I am not sure if all models of TM have the same measurements between bathtub and sink cabinet. If they are all the same I could get a head start on this project. I am not sure which model I am going to wind up with.

I still have some trim work to do and paint the front panel.

The only dimension in question between (almost) all of the TMs is the distance from the tub wall to the vanity wall. Mine is 20.0".. the distance from the back wall to the front of the tank is 19.5" but could be bigger or smaller. The depth of the tank is choice also. I used 9.5" but the lid is made of 1/2" marine plywood so we'll call it 9" -10" (your choice). The taller the more it holds. I could have made it an inch or 2 taller for me but my wife is 5'0" (on a warm day).

If a fabricator is going to make a mold, it would be 1/2" less in width. The F/G is on the outside of "male" mold or inside a "female" mold (like mine).

On our 2009 2720SL that little cut-out in the back (for the wheel well), is 10.5" from the back wall, out 3" from the cabinet and 3" from the floor. I don't think that varies much from model to model. There is a little. triangle wood piece that you can just knock out. It's cosmetic only. I put a 10.5" x 3.5" steel plate over that area to protect against a blow-out tearing through the bottom of the tank. If someone were to make a reusable mold, I would think that 19" wide (tub wall to vanity wall) would be safe for 90%+ of TMs.

A male mold would be easiest and could actually be made out of a block of styrofoam, cut to shape and covered with Saran-Wrap. It could be used over and over again. Resin doesn't stick to Saran-Wrap.

When I glassed the bottom, I started from the hole in the middle and built up shorter and shorter, triangle layers toward all sides of the tank to give it some slope towards the discharge hole. If you are making a female mold, you'd just use wedge shaped pieces of styrofoam to cut down on expense (and weight) of cloth and resin.

It would be interesting for members to respond to this post with the exact distance from the tub wall to the vanity wall.

[Choper101]

Thanks for the measurements. With the height of the box @ 9-91/2" did you use a short height toilet (I can't tell from photo) .?

[Wavery]

Originally Posted by Choper101

Thanks for the measurements. With the height of the box @ 9-91/2" did you use a short height toilet (I can't tell from photo) .?

This is the one that I bought. In retrospect, I wish that I would have looked for a smaller one. Same height, just a smaller body.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...e?ie=UTF8&th=1

I think I like this one better. It wasn't available when I bought mine.

https://www.amazon.com/Aqua-Magic%C2...e%2C171&sr=1-5

[oldbitman]

We have a 2007 2619 that has the new toilet and it is vented to the side. When we stop we attach a PVC pipe to the outside. We are considering selling this unit because of our age.
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