framing around windows

[Larryjb]

It has always bothered me that any supports for window coverings went straight into thin aluminum. The screws will tend to pull the thin aluminum away from the wall in time, or if you are installing a valance like I did, the mounts don't screw tightly against the wall.

Shane was asking about the amount of wood used in the aluminum framed Trailmanors which got me thinking. The wood used in the aluminum framed trailers is there usually for a substrate to be screws into. For example, the door requires a secure substrate to secure the door, so you will find wood there. There is wood inside the roof around each vent. (This is separate from the vinyl riser.) This is there so you can screw the vent to the roof.

So, if I were to remove the window, scrape out about 1" of styrofoam from the top of the window, insert a 1x1 wood strip inside the wall at the top of the window, I would have a secure substrate to which I could secure a valance.

I mention this because I know a few of us who removed the permanent window coverings with valances. A couple of us used z-clips that screw onto the side wall. These make very secure mounts, except for the fact that they are screwed into thin aluminum. I don't know if I will ever get around to this project or not, as I have several other more important porjects to do, like Flyboy's potty vent. (great mod IMO: https://www.trailmanorowners.com/for...ad.php?t=19938 )

(Still didn't get around to that one...)

[Shane826]

I’m not sure about the wood surrounds on the vents and door on the older TMs but I know my 2007 3326 has aluminum around the doors and nothing around the vent openings... The vents clamp into the roof. I was surprised to find no bracing around the rooftop air conditioner opening, either.

Now my 2000 2720sl is a whole different animal. The only roof opening is the fan-vent. I haven’t explored to see what goes on in there. But good to know about the wood around the door.

As for your window question, I don’t see why not? Just be really careful not to deform the aluminum skin. Once you wrinkle it, it’s just about impossible to fix.

[Larryjb]

I should add that I haven't actually seen the wood around the door myself. I do recall discussions about some wood rotting around the door in spite of aluminum framing.

[Shane826]

I think that is more the door itself was framed in wood up until pretty recently. I know my 2007 and a friends 2012 both had rotted wood framing on the actual door halves.

[Peterbug]

Consider using the new high strength acrylic double sided tapes. 3m makes VHB (Very High Bond) that are widely used in many applications, check out youtube videos. I have chosen a less expensive but still very good option called LLPT Double Sided Tape Acrylic that is available on Amazon. Surface area is your friend, and spreading out forces with the proper combination of tape and framing material helps prevent stress risers. For light purposes like curtains, this would be ideal. Others have used VHB in sufficient quantities to mount solar panels on roofs to avoid making unnecessary holes.

[Larryjb]

For curtains, that is fine. Even hooks that screw onto the wall are fine for this. But my project involved a wood valance which is a little heavier. The screws are tight, but the thin metal skin does flex quite a bit, hence my idea to insert a wood backing between the metal skins.