Draw-Tite WD

We have had our 2720SL since late spring and tow with a 1999 Merc. Mountaineer with 5.0 V8 with tranny cooler. Had class III Draw tite hitch installed along with brake controller, etc. I get about 3-1/2 drop when coupling the trailer which gives me a pronounced lift on the front of the Merc. But I don't notice that the driveabilty is affected--we just drag the tank mount on occasion entering and exiting some lots.
Went back to hitch/trailer shop for a WD. They were concerned about bracket interference with the swing arm brackets especially when the trailer is opened using their shortest 28" bars.
Anyone with experience with the WD brackets and swing arm mounts??
Bill

[Bill]

Bill -

I'm not sure what "swing arms" are. Are they the same as "spring bars" - i.e., the bars that have chains on the end, and actually do the lifting?

Bill (the other one)

[billtrish]

Just joined and just purchased the 2720sl using the DrawTite system. We are using the shortest 28" bars and the brackets that the chains attach to on the trailer tongue frame are mounted just ahead of the pivoting supports for the front slidout.There isn't any interference with the slideout with the brackets when the "drawer" is pulled out

[G-V_Driver]

Can't speak to draw-tite, but our 3124KS (which I think has a similar slide to your2720) works fine with the eaz-lift 1k model. I was getting about 3 inch drop on the Suburban bumper, now all gone.

I recommend that you tighten the spring-bar chains while the trailer is still on the jack, lowered just enough to engage the ball retainer mechanism. Makes the pull much easier and reduces the possilbility of a big snap-back.

Wayne

Everyone, thankyou for your help. I will be going back to trailer/hitch shop for WD installation.
Bill

[wesslvm]

Originally Posted by G-V_Driver

Can't speak to draw-tite, but our 3124KS (which I think has a similar slide to your2720) works fine with the eaz-lift 1k model. I was getting about 3 inch drop on the Suburban bumper, now all gone.

I recommend that you tighten the spring-bar chains while the trailer is still on the jack, lowered just enough to engage the ball retainer mechanism. Makes the pull much easier and reduces the possilbility of a big snap-back.

Wayne

On my WD hitch by REESE, I lower the jack and engage the ball retainer, then I use the jack to lift the rear of the vehicle a few inches, then I install the chains and tension bars. Once the bars are installed anc clips inserted, I lower the jack all the way and load the bars. Doing it this way there is very little no tension and I feel very safe.

My two cents.

[G-V_Driver]

I did that too, for a while, but then found that the effort required to pull the chains with the ball engaged was less than that required to run the jack up and down again.

Which is one of the reasons I keep thinking an electric jack would be a really nice thing to have.

Wayne