Sway bars

Just purchased 2009 TM 2720, TV 2003 Ford F250 Super Duty extended cab w/7.3 diesel. Will be hope to travel cross county. Should I install sway bars?

Have factory installed hitch on TV.

Would appreciated any advise. Previously I was towing a 5th Wheel trailer so expect new experience towing a tag along trailer.

Thanks.

[Bill]

First, let's be clear about the difference between sway bars (which are intended to control sway) and the springbars on a weight-distributing hitch (which are part of the weight-distribution mechanism). Many people use the two terms interchangeably, which is not technically correct.

Since TMs are built specifically not to sway, hardly anyone needs a sway-control mechanism.

Because the TM has a high tongue weight relative to total weight (this is part of the sway-avoidance design), almost everyone needs a WDH and springbars. The exception is for those folks with a heavy or very long tow vehicle. Your F-250 falls into that category, so you probably don't need a WDH or springbars. However, it is likely that you shouldn't use a bumper hitch. I have not checked your bumper rating, but it may not be enough. Instead, you would use a Class III/IV or Class IV frame mounted hitch receiver, and a weight-carrying (as opposed to weight-distributing) hitch.

You certainly could substitute a WDH later if you feel the need, but I doubt that you will.

Bill

You are right what I have are the weight distributing Spring Bars. I have a receiver type hitch, installed at the factory. I'm pretty sure it is a class III hitch. A TM dealer tells me I do not need sway bars or sway control but I would hate problems driving in the mountains or on a inter state highway.
Thanks for any suggests or warnings.

[Bill]

Right you are, Jim.

I think you will be pleased at how the TM tows sway-free. It is nothing like a slab-side trailer.

It occurred to me that if you use a solid bar hitch (which is where I would start if I were in your situation), you will probably need several inches of drop in order to get the TM to tow level. Fortunately, solid-bar hitches are cheap - buy Reese at Walmart, for example - so if you later decide that you want to add a WDH with sway control, you have not wasted much.

Also a reminder. If you decide to go with sway control, do not use a friction device, such as the Reese unit or others. You might want to take a look at the hitch tutorials in the TM Technical Library, aka TM Info You Won't Find Anywhere Else. Rocky Mountain Ray wrote some nice stuff on the topic.

Bill

I towed with my 2002 Chevy crew cab 1500HD for several years. I did not need a WD hitch. I was advised by the factory that I would not need one.

Then I loaded 2 dirt motorcycle (500 pounds), 20 gallons of gas for them (150 pounds, 42 extra gallons of water for boon-docking (300 pounds), tools for fixing broken motorcycles (50.pounds).

Plus all of the other stuff that I had already been taking along.

The rear of the truck sagged enough that I could not remove the front wheel of the TM.

Instead of adding a WD hitch I bought a GMC crew cab 2500HD truck. That solved the problem. Same non-economical fuel consumption as the smaller truck.

I would expect you to do well without a WD hitch, unless you take as much stuff as I do.

BTW, before I added the motorcycles etc. I measured how much the rear bumper of the truck sagged when connecting the TM. It was 5/8 inch. I did not measure the rise at the front bumper.

Perhaps someone else has some information on how much sag is OK to tow without WD bars.

Somewhere around here are some calculations. I can not recall the details but I remember the last line. It as a bit humorous:

Final sag.

[rvcycleguy]

I'm using a Tundra which is only 1/2 the truck your using and I'm pulling a 3124KB which is much bigger unit. I don't use the WDH or Sway controls. Pulls just fine all day and all night. Due to the low profile, heavy tongue weight, and single axle set, I've never had a problem with sway. Now, when I load my heavy cruiser motorcycle, folding ramp, gear for 2 persons for an extended camping trip, I will mount up the WDH and inflate the air springs for the added cargo. Now, with just the TM and no gear or M/C, the squat is less than 1 inch at the rear.

We towed our 2720SD over 3000 miles last year through high winds, mountains and freeways surrounded by semis. There was no sway. Given that we were towing with a jeep liberty which has a short wheel base you should have no problem at all with your truck.

We do not carry anything on the rear of the trailmanor but we do have two 6v batteries in the rear battery compartment (+50 lbs over 1 12 volt).

Peter

I did a search for "final squat" and found this old thread.

I have not read it since it was posted, but I think it would be any interesting read regarding WD hitch issues.

http://www.trailmanorowners.com/foru...ead.php?t=2287

There was a post by Bill Jeffrey in Jan. '05 titled : "How to Adjust the Weight Distributing Hitch". It is excellent, and I hope a search of the archives will find it.

Originally Posted by Scott O

There was a post by Bill Jeffrey in Jan. '05 titled : "How to Adjust the Weight Distributing Hitch". It is excellent, and I hope a search of the archives will find it.

http://www.trailmanorowners.com/foru...ributing+Hitch