Ideas To Repair Damage To 2720 Roof

[Wavery]

Originally Posted by Philip

Carolyn & Wayne,

Thank you for sharing your knowledge on repairs. I am quite familiar with 5200 as I am an "X" sailing cruiser like you all. It is good to hear that the 5200 cures at close to the same color as the roof skin. My only concern with the 5200 repair is that 5200 gradually decays under the sun, as you know. Since it should be painted I am wondering how to match the color well. Do you know if you can get a small section of the aluminum roof from the factory? I could 5200 it in place and it may end up as the least noticable repair. Another option may be to have a paint store match the roof color with their computer mix machines. Have you ever done this? I have a small section of the aluminum roof(too small for the repair) given to me as a construction sample when I purchased the TM. This could be used by the paint shop to match color. Being a boater, have you ever considered Marine Tex epoxy for a repair?

Again, thank you for the help.

Phil

Actually 5200 is highly UV resistant and does not deteriorate in the Sun. I have a fairly large patch of 5200 on the aft deck of my Passport 45 (center cockpit ketch) that has been there since 1991. It was never painted over and is still fine.

I installed a tiller on the aft deck to run my Aries wind-vane. The threaded deck-plate, that opened up for the use of an emergency tiller, was at an angle. I made a custom threaded bearing out of bronze that went around the new tiller shaft and the bearing screwed into the deck plate (in place of the screw on cover) with the deck-plate not attached to the deck. I aligned the rudder shaft, screwed the bearing onto the deck plate and filled in the 3/4" void (between the deck-plate and angled deck) with 5200. Smoothed it out with mineral spirits on my finger and let it set for a month before using. I never even ran screws down through the deck. That mounting took that boat around the world and she was steered with that wind-vane 95% of the time. You can imagine the forces that were placed on that 5200. It was the only thing holding that rudder bearing in place and took 100% of the force 100% of the time.

I later fashioned a custom made engine mount out of 5200 (while in So Africa in 1995). I couldn't find a mount that worked, so I was forced to make one. That engine mount has never been replaced since.

[Philip]

Originally Posted by harveyrv

Actually 5200 is highly UV resistant and does not deteriorate in the Sun. I have a fairly large patch of 5200 on the aft deck of my Passport 45 (center cockpit ketch) that has been there since 1991. It was never painted over and is still fine.

I installed a tiller on the aft deck to run my Aries wind-vane. The threaded deck-plate, that opened up for the use of an emergency tiller, was at an angle. I made a custom threaded bearing out of bronze that went around the new tiller shaft and the bearing screwed into the deck plate (in place of the screw on cover) with the deck-plate not attached to the deck. I aligned the rudder shaft, screwed the bearing onto the deck plate and filled in the 3/4" void (between the deck-plate and angled deck) with 5200. Smoothed it out with mineral spirits on my finger and let it set for a month before using. I never even ran screws down through the deck. That mounting took that boat around the world and she was steered with that wind-vane 95% of the time. You can imagine the forces that were placed on that 5200. It was the only thing holding that rudder bearing in place and took 100% of the force 100% of the time.

I later fashioned a custom made engine mount out of 5200 (while in So Africa in 1995). I couldn't find a mount that worked, so I was forced to make one. That engine mount has never been replaced since.

Wayne,

You are right! I was thinking of another adhesive I used as a bedding compound - Life Caulk. This slowly cracks up in the sun. Sorry for the confusion!

Again, thank you for the help.

Phil

[Wavery]

Originally Posted by PopBeavers

Does this stuff stick overhead?

I'm watching this thread because I have the opposite problem. I recently replaced the factory kitchen faucet with one from Orchard Supply Hardware (as has been suggested several months ago), and on one occasion I failed to close that faucet when closing the TM.

I now have a U shaped indent in the ceiling in the shower, just inside the shower curtain. I think I could gently pry the metal skin out to a bit past flush, fill the void with something and then gently push the skin back to where it should be.

But, being overhead, anything like syrup will run out. Caulk will probably be thick enough to not run out. But I am not sure what kind of caulk to use

Wayne,

Once the aluminum is dented, it stretched the metal. It will never lie flat again unless you are really good with a torch and I wouldn't do that because of the foam.

It would probably be best to sand and fill the dent with a body filler like Bondo. Then sand, prime and paint it.

When using Bondo over head, it's best to apply a thin coat with a putty knife. Let it cure for an hour, sand with a sanding block then reapply as necessary, until you achieve a smooth, flat surface. If you try yo do it in one coat, it may sag and pull away from the surface..

I can't think of a caulking that wont's sag when used over head.