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12-15-2014, 09:02 AM
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#11
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TrailManor Master
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: North San Diego County (Fallbrook)
Posts: 632
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Back when I showed both of my daughters how to change a tire and realized that they didn't have the upper body strength to loosen the lug nuts, I got each of them a cheater bar to assist in the task. It was a simple piece of steel pipe, about 16 inches long, to slip over the end of the lug wrench handle, to add the necessary leverage to break the lug nuts loose. Very simple and very inexpensive
__________________
Tim
"A man creates his own legacy. Create a legendary life"
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12-15-2014, 09:43 AM
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#12
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Site Team
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: The mountains of Scottsdale, AZ, and the beaches of Maine
Posts: 10,098
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ThePair
Somewhere along the line I picked up some kind of manual geared thing that multiplies your force, to break the lug nuts' hold and let you remove them without needing power or batteries.
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You may be referring to this ingenious device.
http://www.cheaterwrench.com/
The good news - they really work. The less-good news - because of the gearing, it takes forever to fully remove each nut if you use this device for that. Best idea is to use it to break the nut loose, then switch to a regular lug wrench to actually remove each nut.
By the way, I threw away the standard L-shaped lug wrench that comes with many vehicles. A cross-bar wrench not only has four different sockets (fits both your tow vehicle and the TM), but allows much more force to be applied, and doesn't slip off the lug nut. And you can put it over the lug nut and spin it, which feels good and speeds the removal (or replacement) of the nut a lot. Tim, which kind of wrench do your daughters use?
Bill
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12-15-2014, 10:41 AM
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#13
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TrailManor Master
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: GA
Posts: 503
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The main advantage to the standard L shaped wrenchs is most of them allow you to (relatively) safely put weight down with your foot to help break the nuts loose. I have even (carefully) climbed up and bounced a couple times for very stubborn nuts. I know it doesn't say that in the manual, but hey, I'm beside the road, and I need to get them off.
The cross bars are great for spinning the loose nut off, but pretty much require both hands (and a lot of back) for breaking. Otherwise you get too much slipping off or damage of the nuts.
I concur with some of the comments above, always be prepared to change a tire. If the leak is slow enough that slime could fix it, then it is probably also slow enough to re-inflate (portable pump) and get to a repair place. Any doubts, I put the spare on.
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12-15-2014, 11:02 AM
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#14
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TrailManor Master
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: Somerset, OH
Posts: 1,868
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I have had the issue with the L shape wrench a few times. What I found, it was rust issue. For 30+ years I have put a small amount of grease on the stud and have never had the issue again except if I never had the wheels off.
I noticed my tire shop that I have used for 20+ years, withing the last 5 years, now puts a small amount of grease on the stud before putting the nut on if there is no signs of grease.
I use the L shape wrench that came with my TV because it fits the TM. Also, my TV jack works on the TM.
__________________
Art & Joyce
Current camper: Motor Home
Previous: 2009, 3023-QB and 2003 2720
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12-15-2014, 11:16 AM
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#15
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TrailManor Master
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: GA
Posts: 503
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tentcamper
I have had the issue with the L shape wrench a few times. What I found, it was rust issue. For 30+ years I have put a small amount of grease on the stud and have never had the issue again except if I never had the wheels off.
I noticed my tire shop that I have used for 20+ years, withing the last 5 years, now puts a small amount of grease on the stud before putting the nut on if there is no signs of grease.
I use the L shape wrench that came with my TV because it fits the TM. Also, my TV jack works on the TM.
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Yes, +1 on that. Anti-sieze compound is our friend, great for wheel studs, spark plug threads and many other uses.
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12-15-2014, 11:35 AM
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#16
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TrailManor Master
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: North San Diego County (Fallbrook)
Posts: 632
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill
. Tim, which kind of wrench do your daughters use?
Bill
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If my memory serves me, the cheater bar worked well with their standard lug wrench. They both drove Mustangs in high school and college and the standard wrench was a good one.
__________________
Tim
"A man creates his own legacy. Create a legendary life"
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12-15-2014, 07:09 PM
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#17
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Site Sponsor
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Southeast of Houston, Texas
Posts: 1,089
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I have the cross shaped lug nut wrench as well. It has always worked for me and I like being able to use it on both the TM and TV (different size nuts). As much as you can like anything about flats.
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12-16-2014, 07:13 AM
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#18
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TrailManor Master
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: Tijeras, NM
Posts: 262
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Thx again all. I think I'll put the cheater wrench on my list of things to buy before next trip.
__________________
Cindy & the Pups (Xena & Ozzy)
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
2013 TM 2720SL
2011 Dodge Ram 1500 SLT 4x4 Hemi 5.7
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12-16-2014, 03:31 PM
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#19
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Guest
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Speaking of Walmart they sell a bar that extends and collapses and works well because the angle is such that it clears the side of a TM. I use it to engage my caravan movers where by you have to engage a wheel that is on a spring with a fair amount of tension.
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