scraping bottom

[Padgett]

The top of my hitch ball is exactly 20" off the ground so with a 1" drop (measured) that is 19" with the TM attached. My 2720sl has not been lifted, tows nicely, and I do not recall any scrapes.

You guys are amazing. The wealth of knowledge here is comforting! I have attached some pictures (I think I did). It is in the garage so I couldn't get a wide shot.

When hooked to the truck, the level on the TM is about 1/2 bubble low (to the front) and those lowest parts of the tongue are about 5 1/2" off the ground (these are what scrape). When off the truck and completely level, those lowest bars are about 8 1/4" off the ground, so the truck is definitely pulling it all down. We measured the top of the ball on ours (PADGETT) and were only at 16.75" We are going to flip the hitch and buy a WDH, I think we will be happy campers.

I would appreciate recommends on the WDH, not sure of any issues with the slide out sofa. STORMPEAKCO says he is happy with the Pro Series RB3 750/10K (price remains $214) @ etrailer and I like the price. Those of you with the 2720SL, would this be an acceptable WDH? THANKS !!!

[Bill]

I had never run into that particular hitch, but all the specs look right, and the price is certainly right. Free shipping, too, from e-trailer! For an 80-pound package, that can mean a lot.

Just FYI, since you asked, I use a Reese dual-cam trunnion style WDH, which has worked perfectly for me. It is considerably more expensive than the one you are considering, but I originally chose it because it would enable me to add real sway control (not friction sway control!) if I ever needed it. But I never have. Since your Nissan has a longer wheelbase than my Explorers did, sway will not be a problem for you, and I don't think you will need the trunnion style.

Re your pictures, all I can say is "Oh, my, that looks low!" You are going to love having a proper hitch.

As you noted, things are pretty busy in the A-frame area of your trailer (same year/model as mine). The sofa slide won't be a problem since it sits higher than all the stuff on the A-frame. On mine, the lift brackets sit nicely between the split for the swing tongue and the swing-out sofa slide supports - I imagine TM chose the various dimensions with this in mind. So no problem there unless the springbars are exceptionally long - no reason why they should be. I think they are pretty standard.

Bill

We flipped the hitchbar and reversed the ball and hooked up the TM ... and those really LOW parts are now about 2.75" higher and the TM sits perfectly level. I don't think we will be digging trenches anymore! I am off to read specs on some WDHs, I just want to be sure the ball height is adjustable. Thank you all, so much! We can't wait to take it out!

[davlin]

Kizzys,

Since you reversed the ball, now would be a good time to talk about hitch ball torque. If the diameter of the ball shank is 1", the torque is 250 ft lbs. That's a lot. If the diameter is 1-1/4", it's 450 ft lbs. That's way past "a lot." Many, many (I'm not saying how many) years ago, when I was young and not-quite-so-smart, I nearly lost a U-haul trailer because I thought "gutentight" was good enough.

Dave

[Padgett]

Last time I changed a hitch ball it involved an 8" vise, 18" hitch ball wrench, piece of 2x4, and a five pound sledge.

Can substitute the TV for the vise. Loctite red is optional

[Bill]

Padgett -

Please let them know you are kidding about Loctite red. The hitch ball has a big lockwasher, and just as you described, if you get anywhere near the needed torque on it, it won't go anywhere. If you're a real fan of Loctite, let's go with blue.

Bill

[Hiram123]

I had to stick my receiver in my big vise and use an impact wrench on it. Don't worry about the loctite, if the BIG lock washer doesnt hold it the loctite isn't going to make any difference.

[davlin]

200 pounds (that's me) at the end of a 2 foot lever is 400 foot pounds. Actually need to a 27" lever to get it to 450.

[Padgett]

Said it was optional (for the very, very nervous).