AC Outlet Wiriing Diagram

I don't have much luck searching on this forum, so after 30 minutes of trying to find the electrical wiring diagram, I give up and will simply ask a question that has probably been asked before.

All my AC outlets seem to be on one circuit breaker. This is very limiting since we have to mindful of what is plugged in whenever we intend to make coffee or use the microwave. If not, then it's down on my hands and knees in the hallway o reset the breaker. My documentation on the TM is in the TM which is not stored at my house. Does anybody know the function of the 4 circuit breakers in the convertor or perhaps even better, have an AC wiring diagram of the TM?

Thanks

[Bill]

As you say, all of the outlets are on one breaker, and that outlet string is protected by a GFI. The GFI may be part of the breaker itself, or it may be in the first outlet in the string. Depends on the age of the TM.

The wiring diagram is indeed in the TM Blue Book, and I can't get at mine at the moment. Perhaps someone else will post. You will find that rewring it, to split the outlets into two strings, is not particularly easy. We have learned simply not to run the space heater at the same time as the microwave - that seems to be the only combo that pops the breaker.

If I recall correctly, the breakers are
Main
Water heater
Outlets
Converter and refrig
Air conditioner.

However, the combinations varied a bit by year.

Bill

[Wavery]

One suggestion would be to run a HD (12G) extension cord from the 15A outlet on the CG power post to the inside of the trailer, if you want to run 2, 15A appliances at the same time. That's what we did before we bought our Coleman, propane coffee pot. We had the same issue that you did.

That's a lot easier than wiring in a new breaker and outlet.

Yes, I have decided that a 2nd extension cord for the heater would alleviate the problem. With the space heater running, you have to very careful of what additional devices you plug in. I've also had the cb blow when the coffee pot and the microwave are used simultaneously.

[TexasCamper]

Since I don't see any copyright stamps on the drawings, here are scans of the electrical & wiring schematics. This is from my 2008 Model 3023 manual, but the drawings show they are for "all" models. And the Rev History hints that they may be applicable to 2006 & 2007 units as well.
(3 jpg files attached)
John

Yes I do have the wiring diagram and it shows the GFI outlets as one 20 amp breaker and it also shows a 20 amp OPTIONAL MICROWAVE BREAKER. I have a 2720SL 2007 and as far as I know I did not pay anything extra for an optional breaker. I assume one could maybe be put in. Has anyone had any experience or purchased the optional breaker?

On my TM, it would be relatively easy to add another receptacle on a new circuit breaker just next to the converter box (where the GFI is in mine). You'd want this to be a GFI or you would want to use a GFI breaker for this. In fact, I'm considering this exact modification so I can run two space heaters (I don't really like the idea of running a second extension cord into the TM). I'd probably label the outlets so that I know which circuits they are on.

It also probably wouldn't be that difficult to move the circuits that used to be "down stream" of the receptacle next to the converter to a new circuit (so that the receptacle next to the converter is on it's own circuit). Just make sure to put a GFI where it needs to be (either a GFI breaker or the first outlet in the "chain" should be a GFI outlet).

As far as making, say, the outside outlet a different circuit than the outlet next to the fridge, I think that would be a lot more difficult.

[mjlaupp]

Two space heaters running at one time will probably trip the 30 amp main. That is why a second extension cord is used to run the second heater.
Mike

Two space heaters should be 1,500 watts each. That's about 12.5 amps each (1500/120 = 12.5), for a total of 25. They wouldn't be able to get a UL listing if they drew more than 15 amps each with the plug they have.

They might blow the breaker with the water heater on electric or A/C running, but I think any other combination is probably okay.

[Bill]

Originally Posted by Barry C Anderson

Yes I do have the wiring diagram and it shows the GFI outlets as one 20 amp breaker and it also shows a 20 amp OPTIONAL MICROWAVE BREAKER. I have a 2720SL 2007 and as far as I know I did not pay anything extra for an optional breaker. I assume one could maybe be put in. Has anyone had any experience or purchased the optional breaker?

If you get the optional built-in microwave, it comes with the circuit breaker installed in the breaker box, the wiring installed inside the walls, and an outlet installed at the microwave location. If you did not order the optional microwave, then the breaker will not be in place. The wiring and outlet might or might not be in place - I don't know. If not, it would be difficult to add the wiring, since snaking it through the walls would be nearly impossible. But I don't think that was your real question.

Anyway, adding a breaker to the breaker box is easy. If there is a spare slot in the converter, just plug it into there. If there is no spare slot, you will need to remove one of the full-size breakers (called a 1-inch breaker), and substitute a pair of 1/2-inch breakers, or a dual breaker (two independent breakers in a standard-size 1-inch plug-in).

A standard breaker costs about $4 at any big-box store (Lowes, Home Depot, etc). A GFI breaker costs considerably more - I'm thinking $35-40 or so. Both are easy to install. The real challenge is getting the wiring to the location where you want a new (or at least independent) outlet. As Grakin suggested, the easiest approach is probably to put the outlet near the converter on the new breaker, and leave all the others on the original. Will this meet your needs?

Bill