Kitchen sink is no longer attached

**ShrimpBurrito** · 05-22-2008, 06:49 PM

I looked under the kitchen sink earlier to find a few channels of metal that were attached (pressed?) to the underside of the sink. They came loose from the sink. Special bolts/clamps slide in these channels and press up against the underside of the counter to hold the sink down. Household sinks are mounted similarly.

I tried gluing one of these channels back onto the sink with JB Weld, but it popped off. I'd prefer not to drill a hole through the sink lip as any screw or rivet I'd put through it would then be visible on the topside....defeating the whole purpose of how it's supposed to work.

Has anyone experienced this? I'd be tempted to leave it as it, but I don't want to eventually work some plumbing loose. Any ideas?

Thanks,
Dave

**CAmark** · 05-23-2008, 09:54 AM

Household sinks usually get a bead of some sealant/adhesive between the sink lip and the countertop...can you lift the sink, maybe shim with 1/4 plywood and work a bead under to "glue" to top in place? Many modern adhesives are stronger than the materials being bonded.
Mark

05-23-2008, 02:51 PM

If worse comes to worse you can take the sink out with the errant channels and run it down to a local welding shop. They can 'tack' the channels back on in a couple places but this may leave a brown discolored area on the top of the sink, above the tacks, from the high temps....

BK

**rickst29** · 05-26-2008, 10:17 PM

It doesn't have much initial tack, but if you can hold the parts together until it start to stick well, this seems to be indestructible. And more important in a TM, totally unaffected by vibration.

I used this to repair our "smashed-up-2x6 on the bottom" wooden garage door two years ago, It's been perfect. I also like CA-Mark's idea, DAP makes an "adhesive" caulk with pretty strong tack. But I don't know how that will handle the roade vibration. Either way, be sure to scuff up the surfaces with coarse sandpaper (#60 or so).

**ShrimpBurrito** · 05-28-2008, 11:20 PM

Thanks for the feedback. I think I'll try gluing it down again, perhaps this time with some construction adhesive and some c-clamps.

Dave

**ShrimpBurrito** · 12-06-2008, 09:35 PM

The PL polyurethane construction adhestive that rickst29 suggested has so far held up like a champ. And considering it held up on the bumpy road that ripped apart many other things on the trailer, I'd say that's the way to fix it.

Thanks for the suggestion!

Dave

**rickst29** · 12-08-2008, 11:58 AM

except for the "clamping required, no initial tack" problem, this stuff is great.

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I have an idea, for such "rough" trips, however: When a friend and I take our SUVs out for some off-road "bouldering" fun, we always drop the PSI in the tires by several pounds: more grip, and more flex reducing stress on higher-up suspension components. We're often letting air out of our "35-40 PSI" SUV tires, taking them all the way down to the 15-20 PSI range. Very effective, but you CAN'T drive fast on such under-inflated tires, and need to re-inflate them after playing around.

The same thing probably applies to TrailManor, although to a somewhat less extreme degree: Since you're not going even 25 MPH on such roads, you don't need "stiff" tread to avoid the big, stressful "bubble" which occurs in the tread at high speeds, (at the leading edge of pavement contact, where it's being slammed into the ground at an angle).

If you've got a TPM, like I do, then maybe take off another 5 PSI or so, after tuning to the Goodyear chart value for your axle weight. In my nonstandard 2619, that's getting down to around 35 PSI (because I've got the "big" 3124 tires). Way, WAY below the lazy TM brochure recommendation of 65 PSI. The same would apply to the standard tires, I think, although the chart for your 14" might be be quite different. If the Kumho's allow up to 65 PSI, and Kumho has no such tire loading versus PSI adjustment tables, it might be appropriate make your initial guess from the Goodyear table for MY tires. If they max out at 50 PSI, though, I'd make my first guess from the Goodyear chart for the standard Marathon 14" tires. The Kumhos provide a little bit more sidewall/tread strength, so the Goodyear chart should be an UNDER-estimate of how much air to take out.

What do you think?