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Old 08-08-2009, 12:18 AM   #31
Wavery
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Originally Posted by robertkennel View Post
well it's 13 volts when on shore power. Seems like that's an ok number. What do you think. Robert(brand new battery probably being charged some from sitting on shelf at store for awhile)
When the battery is fully charged, the voltage should go to a maintenance level of 13-13.2V. You may see the voltage go as high as 14.5V while charging.

The key is where the voltage settles, 24 hours after being off of shore power. It should settle down to about 12.7V and you can expect it to go lower over time, naturally.
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Old 08-08-2009, 05:05 PM   #32
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After 3 years of use my pair of Interstate group 24 Marine/RV battereis were not holding up as well as they did when they were new (big surprise).

I spent $90 on an external charger that has both a desulfate and equalize mode. I ran a couple of those cycles on the batteries, one at a time, and the batteries are doing better. Not new, but better.

Before I ran the desulfate/equalize charge on it I ran a hydrometer test, and on one battery one cell was clearly quite a bit lower than the other cells. After the charge the hydrometer showed the cells to be closer to even than they had been.

I was in contact with the company that builds the converter in my TM. They told me it is a 3 stage charger, but it does not have desulfate or equalize modes in it.
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Old 08-10-2009, 08:16 PM   #33
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Well the new battery took care of everything. I will keep an eye on the fluid level very closely from now on. And the odor is gone too, happy days. First camp went well, except I think my float in the gray water needs help because there was a back up to the shower when showing 1/3 full. Pulling the gray valve took care of that. Neighbors at the camp site liked it and a fair amout of people look at it when you tow it as seen from the side view mirror. The whole family is sold on it, wife too! She wants to go next weekend. Not one weedend off. The forum really helped with the experience. I hope Chris emails his address so I can send a check to get full access again. Robert

I tried showing off to myself by not using a checklist for dismantle. Mistake, luckily the cover for the heater came down and I noticed I didn't turn off electric to heater when raising shells to remove refrig items. There was water in the heater so it wasn't an issue this time. I guess that's why I always use checklists when flying, no second chance. Camping will be the same from now on.
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Old 08-18-2009, 04:35 PM   #34
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Default Furnace blower problems...please help!

Hello all ~ yep, can't figure it out. Furnace "blower" is not coming on and no "heat" flowing from the furnace. We make sure that the heating lever is all the way to the left in the "Off" position for 5 minutes or so and then try to turn it on again. Hear a "click" but no "blower" which is standard when it starts up. Could it be because the propane tanks are low - although stove works fine. Confused, it is near new furnace, only used twice and that was by us. Any suggestions, as to what is going on with it? Thanks so much!
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Old 08-18-2009, 05:29 PM   #35
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"I think my float in the gray water needs help"

The tank level ( fresh and gray water) is measured by small electrical sensors in the side of the tank. There is no float. Over time these get dirty and don't work. There are various commercial products that will clean them or you can add a few gallons of water and dish washing soap before you leave for a trip. The water action may clean them for you. Some folks add ice cubes to help, but in a TM that is hard due to the small drains. You can also check the wires sticking out the side of the tank to make sure one has not been damaged.
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Old 08-18-2009, 09:07 PM   #36
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The reading for the float started working again. Good info for the future if it fails again thankyou Robert


Furnace not working, Did you check the fuses too.
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