Torsion bar adjustment.

If I adjust the torsion bars to make it easier to lift the front of our 3326, would it conversly make it harder to close?

MERRY CHRISTMAS to ALL!

Jimmy

Yes but only a little bit. The adjustment may not be as necessary as you think.

1.Make sure you are level.
2.Make sure that your heights are even on the lift arms so it goes up straight (measure from the same point on the round lift arms to the same edge of the roof at all 4 lift arms, the forward 2 must match as well as the back 2.
3.If these are all ok AND all of the bolts are equally snug on the torsion units then tighten the big bolts only a little bit (maybe an eighth of a turn) on all 4 when up, test.
4 Repeat till happy, or too tired to do any more ups and downs with the roof.

Yep. I agree with all the above, basically, except for:

3.If these are all ok AND all of the bolts are equally snug on the torsion units then tighten the big bolts only a little bit (maybe an eighth of a turn) on all 4 when up, test.

In my case, the torsion bars at the middle of my TM came to me with those bolts more extended than the bolts that were at the ends of the TM. I first tried tightening all bolts to be almost equal (meaning that I tightened the middle bolts to match the end bolts) and found that I could then barely move the shells. I then returned the bolts to where I started and from there I then adjusted until I felt I had the best lift and close.

Bottom line advice from me is if you just need a slight betterance, and there are major differences among some of the bolts, then start from where they are currently with slight adjustments.

2.Make sure that your heights are even on the lift arms so it goes up straight (measure from the same point on the round lift arms to the same edge of the roof at all 4 lift arms, the forward 2 must match as well as the back 2.

I do not exactly understand what you mean...so can you please expand upon this setp?

I have a 3124 and the front shell is kinda hard to start lifiting up on. TM did not install any kind of handle or anything so with one person lifting it always will start up at an angle.

I am 1500 miles from my computer that has the pictures and my TM but here is a thread that is well written that will probably answer most of your questions.
http://www.trailmanorowners.com/foru...ead.php?t=8160

I actually have pictures of my unit with lines drawn to show how to measure, but I am not there. Sorry.
Dave

Went to the Tampa RV show today and had the opportunity to talk with Keith Hulsey (owner's son) and picked his brain on several issues. One being torsion bar adjustment since I recently removed the awning due to substantial damage when previous owner bent it by making a sharp turn. Keith said it takes a 1 1/8 in socket and 1 revolution changes the weight by 5 lbs. Only make the adjustments with the camper open and adjust the torsion bolt on the opposite side that you want to make the adjustment. Tight increases the lifting capacity and loose lessen lifting capacity. Leave the center bolts alone and turn only one corner slowly. He said to bring it to the factory if I want, but indicated I could do it if I took my time. He indicated the awning weighs 65 lbs. Keith could not have been any more helpful. A big thanks to him for taking his time to share his knowledge.

Thanks John
BTW, I got to see the new TM.s Love them. Great company with great product.

[Bill]

Good info, John. Thanks for bringing it forward.

I would point out that if 1 turn makes 5 pounds, and an awning weighs 65 pounds, that means adding an awning would require 13 turns. I don't think there are that many thread on the bolt!

And that would explain why TM has a fairly large number of different torsion bars in bins on the assembly line. And it gives an answer to the owners who ask "My TM doesn't have an air conditioner. Any problems if I cut a hole in the roof and add one?"

Bill

[ZekenSpider]

Bill;

Based on measurements I made today using the torsion bar TM recently sent me I think the 1 turn = 5 lb. force number is about right. The Torsion Bar adjustment bolt is a 3/4-10 thread which means 1 turn = 0.1" or 10 turns = 1".

Maybe (as you say) there are a number of different torsion bars used but I tested the one TM sent me for my 3326. I set up a test rig to apply a twisting force to one end of the TB and clamped the other end in a vice. (see attached photos)

I added water to the bucket to add weight to the end of the strut and then measured deflection of the strut as the weight increased. The strut arm length was 41.5 inches. I rotated the arm about 5 degrees using 8 lbs of weight. The resulting calculations gave me a torsion spring rate of about 70 in-lbs/degree.

This means that this torsion bar when fully twisted (90 degrees) would have spring back force on the top pin of the TM shell of 70x90/41.5 = 151.8 lbs. That is the force on one of the four struts attempting to lift the shell. The total lift force when lowered is then 4x151.8 = 607.2 lbs. This seems about right for the weight of a 3326 front shell. In the factory assembly video of a few years ago it showed about 14 men carrying the shell to put in place on the struts.

The TB adjusting bolt point of force in the cage under the TM has an approximate 2.5 inch moment arm which means the force on that bolt when the shell is fully down is 70x90/2.5 = 2,520 lbs. Adjusting that bolt one turn moves the TB angle about 2.29 degrees. That equates to 160.3 in-lbs of torque and translates to about 4 lbs at each strut.

John's information from the TM rep appears to be in the ballpark. If you wanted to compensate for a 65 lb awning added to the roof that would require 65/4=16.25 lbs per strut or about 16.25/5 (using John's number) = 3.25 turns at each torsion bar. It would appear the TB adjusting bolt can add or subtract about 40 or 50 lbs at each strut before it runs out of thread.

Hope I'm right. Comments are invited.

Jerry

Great post Jerry. That post alone was worth the years subscription. Thanks for taking the time to set up and perform the experiment, then posting it in an understandable format. Robert

[mmayville]

I recently purchased my TM 2720 SL and notice that when I close the rear side of the shell the the front where the seal meets the front shell is high by about 3-4". I am bringing it home after my brake fiasco on Thursday and need to adjust the torsion bars so the rear shell goes down farther and that the seal from the front shell completely seals against the back shell. At the present time when the unit is closed there is approximately a 1" gap on the front shell seal and even more on the corners. I will post pictures this weekend. Both axles had to be rebuilt with new backing plates, brakes, bearings and so forth to the tune of $800.00. I am also interested in suggestions for the winter. I store it on a lot for the winter with a cover, but in Michigan we get a lot of snow. I am open to suggestions of how to possibly putting some kind of tent shaped form over the top to keep the weight off the roof. Maybe a hinged set of 1/4 plywood with hinges in the middle placed over the top so the snow distributes the weight more toward the outside edges of the top so it melts or slides off the top. Not sure have to really think this one out. My storage place does not plow the rows to the parking spots in the winter I think. Never had to go there in the winter but is a concern. Back to torsion bar adjusments, after reading the forum the adjustment bolts us a 1 1/8" socket correct? I did notice when I set it up the first time that the holding rods for the pins that hold the unit in place fall off the pins. (Suggestions)

Mike