Roof Coating/Painting

Originally Posted by Bill

In desperation, I ask - how about that spray goop that is "not sold in stores"? You know the stuff I mean - you blow the bottom out of a rowboat with a cannonball, then you tack a window screen over the hole, then you spray the screen with the goop, and put the boat in the water. Not only does it not leak, but miraculously the screen doesn't even bow upwards from the water pressure below!

I hate the ad - it is so bogus - so I suggest this only semi-seriously. Anyone have any experience with it?

Bill

A good early morning laugh, thank you! And I would never use that junk.

[Redtail Cruiser]

I had a small crack in the wheel well on the curb side of my TM, which would bring water inside the cabinet when driving in the rain or through a puddle. First thing I tried was a few coats of ABS glue, but that had poor adhesion, so my DW bought a can of that magic spray at a "as seen on TV" store and I tried it. Voila, it worked like a charm; however I don't think I would try it on the roof.

[Bill]

Hey! I was in Home Depot this evening, looking for spray paint for one of my wife's projects. Staring me right in the face were cans of Rustoleum Leak Seal Flexible Rubber Coating. Several colors, about $10 a can. Never saw this product before, but it looks just like the "As Seen on TV!" stuff (except that it says Rustoleum on the can instead of "Really Good Stuff!") And the pictures and directions on the can say it is intended exactly for this problem.

Check it out at http://www.rustoleum.com/product-cat...-rust/leakseal.

The technical data says
Rust-Oleum® LeakSeal™ is an easy to use, rubberized protective utility coating designed to fill and seal leaks and cracks. It provides a water-tight, flexible seal that prevents moisture penetration and corrosion. LeakSeal dries to a semi-smooth finish that will not sag or drip, and can be top-coated with latex or oil-based paints. This product is designed for use on metal, aluminum, galvanized metal, PVC, concrete, masonry, asphalt roofing materials, vinyl siding, fiberglass, and more.

and the Surface Prep section says
Remove all dirt and debris from the area to be coated. Wash area with a detergent and water solution, rinse with fresh water, and allow the surface to dry thoroughly. Remove any loose paint or previous coatings with a wire brush or sandpaper. Lightly sand glossy surfaces. Wipe the sanded surface clean when finished.

In other words, it won't stick to old caulk. But no need for a fussy primer, either.

Bill

[Bill]

Today's issue of RV Daily Tips has a short article about Eternabond tape as a sealer, along with several photos. Basically it says that if you simply apply Eternabond, the edges will most likely lift and admit water. You need to seal the edges with Dicor (or similar) self-levelling caulk.

I've never used either product, so this is simply an FYI.

Bill

[oldstick]

I am thinking one key to sealing the roof vents is to completely coat the sides and tops of the wood risers with a really good adhesive sealant, like daveinfl did. Then all the way outwards covering the edges of the cut roof opening. My wood risers were 4 pieces of wood with mitered joints in each corner, so I think some water may have been entering through the cracks in the joints.

Like dave, I wasn't really worried too much about looks up there just covering everything up completely. I did use a special clear gutter adhesive that was really sticky and dried flexible but is going to be a LOT harder to remove than any kind of silicone calk I've ever seen. So I am hoping that is a good thing. My repair was only done a few months ago, so time will tell if it is a lasting fix or not.

[ShrimpBurrito]

If I recall correctly, that's not wood up there but PVC. So at least insofar as sealing up the joints, I would think PVC glue would be the best.

Dave

[daveinfl]

Thanks everyone. I think this weekend I may check into the Rustoleum product that Bill saw. I will try one vent and we will see how it does. More to come.

Daveinfl

Dicor self leveling sealant in calk tube. Clean the old stuff off, clean with alcohol and it will work.

[daveinfl]

My saga continues. Best advice I can give to anyone is to avoid Eternabond for anything except flat seams. Worked on my roof today. Decided I was going to remove the Eternabond around all my vents. It is very difficult to remove. Even using heat as Eternabond recommended to me. The worst thing is some of it comes off but it leaves a lot of residue which is hard to get off. After fighting with the first vent using the Eternabond method to remove the tape, I got out my multi-tool. It is like a Dremel. I put the blade on it and boy did that make things easier. As long as you keep it level it removes a lot of the Eternabond. Now I have to find a good solvent to remove the residue. Eternabond says you can leave it, but I'm not sure. I also read where someone put liquid rubber roof over the residue and it was fine.

Anyway ... the plan now is to remove the residue next week. Prime well. Use the Dicor self leveling caulk on everything. Let cure and put the Rustoleum liquid rubber about three inches all around and up the sides of the vents. I can't see how any thing could leak then.

Oh by the way. As I was taking the Eternabond off ... I found pockets where it didn't stick. I thought I did everything right ... but obviously I didn't. It was mostly around the edges of the risers that TM puts the vents on. Didn't stick at all. It was like french drains all the way around. No wonder it still leaked.

[mecicon]

Originally Posted by daveinfl

I would appreciate any comments or suggestions. I just don't want to have leaking issues this year.

Thank you.

Dave in Florida

http://hydrostop.com/

a product of:

http://www.quest-cp.com/


Can only be found in Roofing supply stores, if you need help let me know your location.