Towing Basics

Never appologize for being picky.

You are correct, #5000lbs. Thanks for the correction.

This is being a great and informative topic. I have read a lot of posts about pushing limits, tow ratings, gross versus dry, but never a how-to and TV behavior. Thanks you everyone.

My 4runner has a #5000lb towing capacity, and i love it and wont get rid of it. So our plan is to keep the 3124 light, and load a second car with kids-n-crap. It will keep the whole load well within limits, and it will help with the sanity by putting the kids and a different car! This seems like a win-win to me.

[Wavery]

Originally Posted by PopBeavers

Not that I don't believe you, but I don't see the connection as to why towing would increase the temperature of power steering fluid. I would have thought that the power steering fluid temperature was more related to air temperature and frequency of turning the steering wheel.

For someone towing without WD bars when they should have them, resulting in weight reduction on the font axle, I would have expected that to lower the power steering fluid temperature.

Some factory tow packages come with a P/S cooler. You can see the P/S cooler on my truck on the right side of the radiator.

Think about how much more maneuvering that you do while towing the trailer. Not necessarily on the open highway but in the city and especially when backing. Backing and turning the wheel multiple times at dead slow speed really heats up the P/S pump.

The other thing is, when you are braking and turning at the same time, there is a lot of load transferred from your tow to your steering wheels. The big heat generator is backing and maneuvering though.

One more thing......petrol based fluids burn quite easily when over-heated just one time. Most have a max operating temp of around 300*. After 300* the fluid (being organic) burns and loses it's lubricating qualities. Synthetic fluids have a max operating temp of around 600* and, by it's composition, does not "Burn".

If you open up most high mileage (and some low mileage) P/S systems, you will find that the fluid is black. Some of that is contaminates but a lot of it is burnt.

To add a little to Bill's post #10.

I use a Scan Gauge II to monitor my transmission temperture. In addition, I monitor my torque converter slippage and gear ratios. I have learned a lot by watching that little puppy. I used to think that the 1st downshift that occured from 4th gear was the transmission going back into 3rd. But the 1st downshift that I feel on my 2006 F150 is the torque converter unlocking, while the transmission stays in 4th. It will then switch down to 3rd if additional power is needed. When I manually disable the O/D, then the transmission shifts to 3rd and the torque converter unlocks, but the torque converter will immediately lock back up if addtional power is not needed. As far as I can tell in my vehicle, the torque converter never locks up in 1st gear.

Climbing the steep curvy roads around here pulling my conventional 5500 lb. travel trailer, the transmission will shift to 2nd gear, with the torque converter unlocked. With the unlocked torque converter, and low speeds, that is when the tranny temperature really goes up. I have gotten 200 degrees before I crest the top at Swfit Run Gap. Crossing the Blue Ridge at Afton mountain on I-64 where I can keep my speed up (no slow-down curves), with the tranny in 3rd and the torque converter locked, the tranny temperature stays below 180, and usually below 170.

I am now a believer that an unlocked torque converter is the main culprit of transmission temperature heat.

Originally Posted by mtnguy

To add a little to Bill's post #10.

I use a Scan Gauge II to monitor my transmission temperture. In addition, I monitor my torque converter slippage and gear ratios. I have learned a lot by watching that little puppy. I used to think that the 1st downshift that occured from 4th gear was the transmission going back into 3rd. But the 1st downshift that I feel on my 2006 F150 is the torque converter unlocking, while the transmission stays in 4th. It will then switch down to 3rd if additional power is needed. When I manually disable the O/D, then the transmission shifts to 3rd and the torque converter unlocks, but the torque converter will immediately lock back up if addtional power is not needed. As far as I can tell in my vehicle, the torque converter never locks up in 1st gear.

Climbing the steep curvy roads around here pulling my conventional 5500 lb. travel trailer, the transmission will shift to 2nd gear, with the torque converter unlocked. With the unlocked torque converter, and low speeds, that is when the tranny temperature really goes up. I have gotten 200 degrees before I crest the top at Swfit Run Gap. Crossing the Blue Ridge at Afton mountain on I-64 where I can keep my speed up (no slow-down curves), with the tranny in 3rd and the torque converter locked, the tranny temperature stays below 180, and usually below 170.

I am now a believer that an unlocked torque converter is the main culprit of transmission temperature heat.

Thanks for the report.

I have been counting gear shifts, and notice that some of my cars just seem to have one more gear than I thought they had. Probably what I was counting was the unlocking of the torque converter.

Thanks to everyone. Ok, to reitterate:

1. Install transmission fluid cooler, preferrably one with its own fan
2. Install transmission temp gauge,
3. Next time to the oil change place, change to synthetics
4. Try to tow while torque converter is locked-up

Looks like I have some work to do.

Thanks, Jason

One more question,

Will the scan-gauge 2 monitor transmission fluid temp even though I currently only have a "high-temp" light? If the truck is already monitoring the temperature, why dont I have a gauge?

Jason

[Wavery]

Originally Posted by jchmel9719

One more question,

Will the scan-gauge 2 monitor transmission fluid temp even though I currently only have a "high-temp" light? If the truck is already monitoring the temperature, why dont I have a gauge?

Jason

Good question but then again, the ScanGaugeII has about 25 available gauges. I don't know how many people would understand what the gauges were saying and I would think that most people wouldn't care for the F-17 cockpit look....
http://cgi.ebay.com/FREE-SHIPPING-Sc...item3a56cafd0c

It displays 4 gauges (of your choosing) at a time. I have mine set to display real time MPG, Avg MPG, Eng temp and trans temp (TFT). I can also manually scroll to any other gauge with the touch of a button. Trans fluid temp is not available on all vehicles.

The instrument is easy to install, it just plugs into the diagnostic port under your dash. It comes with Velcro pads to mount it nearly anywhere.



Be careful about having someone change you over to synthetic ATF. It may be best to do it yourself or with the help of a mechanical friend. If you are interested, I can give you instructions for doing it right. Most shops will try to sell you a trans flush. I don't recommend doing that.

For changing over to synthetic engine oil, I would suggest buying the oil and appropriate filter from Autozone or similar high volume parts store. Take the stuff to you mechanic and ask his to use it.

Most places will do an oil change fr about $30-$40 including regular oil and filter. If you ask for a synthetic change-over, the price often goes over $100.

The oil is $7 a qt x 5qts is = $35. If you buy a synthetic quality filter (~$12). That's about $47. I would ask the shop to do it for $30, using your supplies. It's only about $77 that way. You can go 10K miles on synthetic but I would recommend 5,000-6,000 towing (that's double the miles of a regular oil change)

go to the scan gauge web site and they list what information can be viewed on different vehicles. There is a ton of info available from the vehicle computer via the ODBII port ( way more than you would like) it is just cheaper to add a light than a gauge.

http://www.scangauge.com/

[Wavery]

Originally Posted by rumbleweed

go to the scan gauge web site and they list what information can be viewed on different vehicles. There is a ton of info available from the vehicle computer via the ODBII port ( way more than you would like) it is just cheaper to add a light than a gauge.

http://www.scangauge.com/

WOW!!!! They dropped their price by $40 since I ordered mine on eBay. ScanGauge.com used to have it listed @ $199. I'd buy it direct if I bought it now......

Originally Posted by harveyrv

ScanGauge.com used to have it listed @ $199. I'd buy it direct if I bought it now......

It Also Says It's Available @ Autozone, For My Local Store It Shows $149.00 ... I Also Have A Connection There I Might Be Able To Get Me A Great Deal There.

EDIT: Considered A Special Order Item Thru Autozone No Discounts Allowed On That