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Old 02-29-2008, 09:48 AM   #11
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Originally Posted by arniland View Post
Count me in on the experiment. Arn
I'll put you down Arn. Thanks for letting us know. Keep us informed.
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Old 03-03-2008, 11:15 AM   #12
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I've put 3,200 miles on my Hankook 14 inch tires (Load Range D 195/14 Euro size). So far everything has been fine. I've been keeping the air pressure between 63-64 psi as I'm not near the weight limit for them. I also keep them covered now unlike the Marathons which lasted over 30,000 miles.
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Old 03-07-2008, 01:16 PM   #13
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After reading all of the threads, I decided to make the change to 15" tires and rims. I got the ST225/75R15 tires and had them mounted and balance. I brought them home and mounted them only to find out that I have plenty of clearance except to the rear where it hits the box beam support. The tire actually touches the support beam. I have a 99 2720SL with the lift so I have plenty of clearance everywhere else. Now what?? Thanks, Wayde
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Old 03-07-2008, 02:30 PM   #14
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Hoo, boy. Aside from the obvious solution (go back to the tire dealer and try to trade in the brand-new 15-inchers on some of the metric 14-inchers that WMTIRE and others have reported on), I can think of only a couple things.

1. Have a shop move the TM axle forward an inch. Since the axle is probably bolted on to the frame, it is not as big a deal as you might think. Your friendly local mechanic should be able to do this - it doesn't sound like it needs any special tools, equipment, or knowledge except a hydraulic lift.
2. When you say "It touches the support beam", I gather you mean that it touches the so-called outrigger - a beam section that sprouts sideways from the main frame rail. You could have a welder move the outrigger back an inch. But I'm not sure how the body is (or is not) attached to the outrigger.

By the way, do you have square or round wheel wells? And did you start with 13 inch or 14 inch wheels?

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Old 03-07-2008, 05:28 PM   #15
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Bill, I have looked at the possiblities you described and both would required welding. Moving the axel would solve the problem and a little welding to add to or move existing mount plate. Same with the "outrigger" beam (you are correct). It appears that the outrigger is just welded on 2 sides and then attached to the body by one bolt. I thought about that or even notching the outrigger and re-welding that portion in a triangular shape.
I have the square wheel wells and started with the 14" wheels. There is lots of room above the tire and ~ 2' in front.
By the way, I am my friendly mechanic. I just don't weld!

Thanks Wayde
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Old 03-07-2008, 06:45 PM   #16
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Originally Posted by irenepl View Post
By the way, I am my friendly mechanic. I just don't weld!

Thanks Wayde
Oops, then I feel a little silly making suggestions! I have great confidence in your ability to handle this, though I am sorry the issue came up at all. I don't think we've heard from anyone in your situation, so there is no experience to build on.

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Old 03-07-2008, 07:06 PM   #17
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That ok Bill, I always need help!!!
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Old 06-11-2008, 09:25 PM   #18
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Bill, Spring finally sprung, however, we did have snow yesterday (flurries) and our low of 36 set a new record. I decided to move the axel. I replace the 2" spacer with a longer spacer and add 2 more bolts. I moved the bolt holes forward 2" exactly. The mount on the frame is not long enough to mount the front axel bolt to it but with 2 long bolts in the rear and one long and one short in the front I feel confident that it will work just fine. The short bolt is for the existing front mount hole as I thought that a new hole so close to the axel flange mount was not neccessary. Now the wheel looks centered in the wheel well and I have plenty of clearance.
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Old 07-23-2008, 07:07 AM   #19
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Default Kumho tire report for the tire experiment

Well we just returned from a nearly 6 week coast-to-coast trip. With this trip plus two earlier East Coast trips we have now put over 10,000 miles in 6 months on our Kumho 195R14Cs with no problems.

I've limited my speed to 65 mph with very occasional excursions to 70 while passing on secondary roads or steep downhills. Much of the last trip was on secondary roads with a few limited runs on gravel. I kept the pressure at the recomended 65 psi. The trailer did not shake apart as someone suggested the increase from 50 psi would cause. I had the tires balanced on installation.

I'm very pleased with them at this point. I'll post a little about the trip later.

Thanks to all on this forum whose posts pointed me in this direction.

Arn
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