TV Insanity

[Denny_A]

Originally Posted by ddnavar

...... The equalizer hitch adds much stability to the 4-runner. Happy Trails

......an Equal-I-zer hitch? Being a specific brand. Assuming you mean Weight Distribution Hitch (or is that a wrong assumption?). I currentlly use an Equal-I-zer hitch to tow my Jayco, but used a standard spring bar/snap-up type WDH with my TM.

No sway device would have salvaged the over correction and ensuing violent whiplash swaying which totaled my trailer!

Denny_A

Originally Posted by ddnavar

The older vehicles do not have a built in 6 prong trailer plug built into the hitch or bumper as the new 4-runners do have a 6 pronger.

But don't you actually want a 7 pin Bargman connector?

[Bill]

Denny -

Thanks for addressing two misconceptions in one short post.

Originally Posted by Denny_A

Not to be confused with an Equal-I-zer hitch, ... a specific brand. Assuming you mean Weight Distribution Hitch (or is that a wrong assumption?).

The generic name for what we all use is a Weight Distributing Hitch (WDH). There are many manufacturers of WDHs. Equal-I-Zer is a good one, a bit more expensive than some. Reese and Draw-Tite are others. The important thing is to get a properly-rated WDH and know how to adjust it.

No sway device would have salvaged the over correction and ensuing violent whiplash swaying which totaled my trailer!

Sway control is not magic. It is designed to help prevent sway from getting started, but once a violent sway incident is under way, there isn't much that is going to help. A sway control mechanism can't hurt, but the TM's anti-sway design is much more effective at preventing sway from getting started. As I recall, your TM was wrecked when you actually left the pavement and violent fish-tailing began. By then, it is way too late for any sway control to be effective.

Bill

You are right on several accounts.. I should have used WDH... and it is a 7 pin bargman connector....not 6.

Hello All,

It seems that I'm not going to be overly worried about buying a tow vehicle anytime soon after all. The 3023 I was buying burned to the ground on its way to my house. The owners were good enough to agree to deliver the unit to my house in San Diego but, very unfortunately for all, it seems that the braking system malfunctioned and lit up not only the TM but their tow vehicle as well. I take it that nothing is left except for the ash outlines. The really important thing though is that nobody was hurt. I don't know any specifics to share with you all as to how it got started apart from some kind of "trouble" with the brakes. It must have been a very scary situation to find yourself in. My heart really goes out to this wonderful couple. If anyone knows of or is selling a tow vehicle rated to pull a 3023 (5K# or better) please contact me at [email protected] so I can pass on the information to this couple who will no doubt be hunting soon themselves. They got a new trailer but understand they were going to pull it with the same tow vehicle they were using for the 3023 and have now lost.

So I guess I'm starting my long, long search anew. If anybody knows of or has an older TM in the <$8K range, please contact me at [email protected]. The biggest we can go is the 3023 but will consider all smaller units that have a bathroom.

Thanks for all the great advice!

[Denny_A]

Originally Posted by IBON4IT

......snip....Thanks for the advice Denny about the electronic HP. Did you use any of that on your 4-Runner when you were towing or just straight? Was it the 3.4L? The "special intake" you mentioned you removed from your Tundra - was that the K&N device I keep reading about? That certainly gets mixed reviews.

Does anybody know what all is included in a 4-Runner which is factory equiped with a tow package? Some have suggested they may have beefier radiators, rear ends, suspension, etc. I can't find any evidence either way.

....to respond. My 4Runner was 3.4L V6, 183 HP and 219 (?) lb-ft of torque. No artificial power boosters...Stock.

Yes, my Tundra had A K&N intake. RockMoutain Ray advised me to get rid of it due to reduced torque and shortened life of the stock airmass sensor. I did it the next day. The throaty roar is gone (scared my dog) as is the unpredictable surge acceleration. Now the machine purrs like Garfield on steroids.

Sorry about the mishap of the "smoking trailer". Global warming maybe?

Denny_A

A good warning from Leon. "Strike anywhere" matches are a potential danger in any vehicle due to the constant abraision they are subject to. Safety matches, especially of the matchbook kind, always seem to get damp and aren't reliable. We carry one of those Scripto trigger lighters designed for lighting barbecues and fireplaces. Better safe than sorry!

I had never thought about the kitchen matches.....but makes sense. I will make sure that I don't have the strike anywhere variety in my TM. I do keep a fire extinguisher in the the TV & TM.

Another thought on that fire which they thought started around the wheel....I have been reading threads about grease on the brake shoes from using the grease zerk in the hub. That could be a possibility if the shoes got hot. A bad wheel bearing could possibly over heat causing a fire. I don't know if a short in the brake wiring could cause a fire, but I did notice that I had a couple of bare wires showing in that area when I was installing a lift kit recently. The wires rubbed against sharp metal where it was fed through axle bracket. Replaced the wires, and ran them through a piece of wiring harness for protection.

Thanks for the follow up about the 4-Runner. I'm still on the market for both a TV and TM.

Good point about the matches. If I ever find a trailer I'll remember that. Definitely better safe than sorry. Also, the point about towing with the propane valves closed is a good one. Is it safe and effective to run the fridge off the battery throughout a 10-12 hour tow day? I'd never really considered trailers as fire hazards but I guess they really are. I've heard so many horror stories just since yesterday. I take it they go up faster than you can imagine.

The folks who owned the 3023 I was buying haven't said if they know what caused the fire. They just said that people in another car were pointing urgently at their trailer so they looked back and saw smoke. Unfortunately the fire extinguishers were inside the trailer so they had to open it to get to them. I guess the influx of fresh air stoked the smoke into open flames and 15 minutes later all was in ruin. They were able to reach the extinguishers but I understand they were almost useless. I feel so bad they couldn't at least get their car free. They did manage to save their dog (thank God) and their mobile electronics.

Believe me, I'm now interested in learning about every possible source of fire danger in trailers. When we do find another TM we are going to be greasing the wheel bearings, checking the rotors for contaminants and warpage, shoes for wear, and brake controller wiring for shorts before every trip. Another major lesson is to carry a BIG fire extinguisher in the TV. When it comes to propane leaks FEMA recommends that if you smell propane:
*Do not look for the leak yourself (which is what we would probably all do if we didn't know better);
*Get out immediately;
*Leave the door open behind you;
*From outside of the trailer, call 911 or your local fire department and report the leak;
*If you can do so safely, turn off the gas at the propane tank and turn off the power to the trailer at the pole or main switch coming from the house.

Cindy

In our state, Washington, it is illegal to run the refrigerator on propane while towing the trailer. I believe in many other states it is also. Back east, we were stopped before going through some of the long tunnels and we had to get out and "demonstrate" (their word) to the inspector that the propane was turned off. I think it would be extremely foolish to tow with the propane on and expecially with the refrigerator burning. What happens whenyou stop for gas - boom!