Any ideas on how to fasten sink to countertop?

**ShrimpBurrito** · 08-23-2021, 11:39 PM

Does anyone have any ideas on how to re-fasten our kitchen sink to the countertop? Originally, it was fastened using clamps the slid into channels that look like they were tack-welded to the underside of the sink. Slide them in, turn the lip so it is under the counter, and turn the screw to tighten the lip so it clamps the sink to the counter. As shown here:

The problem is a) the clips are so flimsy that they bend, and so they just don't hold over time while subject to road vibration; and b) the channels have all slowly but surely broke free from the sink. I've glued them back on with JB Weld, and while that bought some time, it too eventually failed. And even while the glue held, the clamps were still lousy. The sink is now sliding all over the place, wearing on the counter top and probably the drain line too.

Any suggestions?

Many thanks!
Dave

**Larryjb** · 08-23-2021, 11:51 PM

I managed to find replacement clamps that worked. The tricky part is the channel. You might be able to find some one to tack weld it back. It might be easier to find a new sink.

**ShrimpBurrito** · 08-24-2021, 12:17 AM

Thanks, Larry. Where did you get your magical clamps?

I've started thinking about a new sink....maybe I would get lucky, but I'm thinking it's going to be challenging to find one that fits that hole well and has the drain in the same position. There's not much room under there with the water heater and fresh water tank......

Dave

**Larryjb** · 08-24-2021, 06:19 PM

I'm pretty pere I got them from Home Depot. As I recall, they weren't in a logical place.

**Bill** · 08-25-2021, 07:50 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ShrimpBurrito

I've started thinking about a new sink... There's not much room under there with the water heater and fresh water tank......

Dave

Dave -

If you are forced into this situation, I believe that the factory is now using the HEPvO device that you see on TV. I'm not yet fully confident in this device, but it is apparently code-approved for residential use in the US and Canada, and would save a lot of hassle under the sink.

Bill

**ShrimpBurrito** · 08-25-2021, 08:20 AM

Great idea, Bill. I’d be far more willing to use that in an RV before a home, so that very well might be useful. Thanks for the tip.

Do you know if the factory uses that in the tub now? If so, I presume that might make the tub slightly lower, giving us tall folks some desperately needed head room.

Dave

**Bill** · 08-25-2021, 10:36 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ShrimpBurrito

Great idea, Bill. Do you know if the factory uses that in the tub now?
Dave

Dave -

My 2020 TM has a conventional P-trap in all locations. When I took the factory tour earlier this summer, I saw some partially-built TMs with the HEP unit on the factory floor. A quick note to [email protected] would get your answer right away - Jacob is great.

By the way, no fair bragging about your height. I never quite reached 6 feet, and now I am in that "shrinking fast" stage of my life.

Bill

**ShrimpBurrito** · 08-25-2021, 11:57 PM

Well, I pulled the sink, and it turns out I had not actually used JB Weld to glue the rails back on years ago, but construction adhesive. So, I might clean them up and use JB Weld, but even then, I really was frustrated with the way those clips performed. It is a serious PITA to get under the sink to align a screwdriver with those screws, and even once I tightened them, I found they simply deformed, and then the sink started moving around again.

I also found what appears to be the same sink:

Dayton GE12521R3 Single Bowl Top Mount Stainless Steel Sink (by Elkay)
https://www.amazon.com/Dayton-GE1252.../dp/B0012C646Y

From the pictures, it seems they are using the same clips. If it was a better design, I'd jump on it. I've even considered making my own brackets by drilling some holes along the sink flange and using elevator bolts (basically, a carriage bolt with a flat head) or sidewalk bolts (basically an elevator bolt with a slot to accept a screwdriver) to pull up on some bar stock to clamp the countertop. Wouldn't look as nice, but I'd never had to deal with it again, and at least with sidewalk bolts, it would be easy to loosen/tighten from the top.

Dave

**ShrimpBurrito** · 08-26-2021, 12:13 AM

I also thought about getting some of these clips, intended to mount an under-counter sink:

These are designed such that the brass mesh plate is epoxied to the underside of the countertop with the bracket part supporting the sink. However, with the sink in the TM being a drop-in design, I was thinking of JB-Welding the mesh plate to the underside of the sink and then tightening the bracket part up against the underside of the counter. Replace the wing nuts with hex nuts, and that would be easier to grab those nuts with a socket vs. the screw brackets, and might work well if the adhesive holds.

Dave

**Larryjb** · 08-26-2021, 01:05 PM

I think you will be dissappointed with how JB Weld will perform in this situation. It tends to be brittle and may crack out.

I chad previously thought of rivots, but they might interfere with the track. Perhaps you know some one who could spot weld it back on?