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Old 09-05-2019, 08:05 AM   #21
Bill
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I'll need to solder them in, and then tape up all the exposed "+12V" connectors
Quick thought. Rather than "taping" the connectors (presumably using electrical tape), have you considered using heat-shrink tubing? In my experience, electrical tape will come off if you abrade it, it eventually loses its stickiness and unwraps itself. It is never really tight on the connection. It is far from moisture proof, and it looks sloppy. By contrast, heat shrink molds itself tightly to the connection, will never come off unless you cut it off, and is very nearly waterproof. And it looks professional.

My habit is to cut two lengths of tubing, each having a different diameter. Cut the smaller diameter piece long enough to completely cover the joint with a bit of overlap onto the insulation. Cut the larger diameter piece long enough to cover the smaller piece, plus some extra overlap at each end. If you are OCD like I am, you can even stuff a glob of dielectric grease into the inner tube before you shrink it. Under the influence of heat and pressure, it will spread out inside the tube, lending a bit more moisture and corrosion resistance to the wire.

You will shrink the two pieces of tubing separately, of course. Slide the small piece over the joint, and shrink it. Then slide the larger piece over the smaller one, and shrink it. By far the best shrink tool is a heat gun, but there are other ways. A propane torch will work if you are really careful. For small tubing, I've done it with a soldering iron, or a match. I've even done it over the flame on my kitchen stove. But for serious work such as you are undertaking, a $15 heat gun from Harbor Freight (often on sale for $10) is worth it.

Just my experience. Yes, I have tried self-fusing electrical tape. I don't like it.

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Old 09-05-2019, 10:23 AM   #22
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Lightbulb MPPT Solar Charge Parameters (also with Battleborn Values)

I modified "Boost Setting" and "Float Setting". (I set Equalize Voltage == Boost Voltage, and also set equalize time to zero minutes.) Boost = 14.6v, and Float = 13.7v. I also extended the maximum Boost time to 180 minutes.

There is actually very little increase in power storage when pushing the battery above 14.1v, and it hurts the lifespan to keep the battery fully charged all the time. "Float" doesn't actually go into the battery - nearly all of it gets consumed by "phantom loads". IIRC, I set the "Boost Resume" at 13.4v. That's a bit too high; next time I have it out, I will reduce that to 13.2v.
- - - Edit, 6/25/20 - - -
Before my most recent trip a couple weeks ago, I reduced "Boost Resume" to 13.2V. Today I saw that Battle Born batteries has made recommendations for programming the EPEVER controllers, and their figures are nearly the same as mine:

Over Voltage Disconnect 14.7 V
Charging Limit Voltage 14.6 V
Over Voltage Reconnect 14.6 V
Equalize Charging Voltage - shut off or 14.4 V (with 0 duration 'equalization time)
Boost Charging Voltage 14.6 V
Float Charging Voltage 13.6 V
Boost Reconnect 13.3 V
Low Voltage Reconnect 10
Under Voltage Warning Reconnect Voltage 11.5
Under Voltage Warning 11.5
Low Voltage Disconnect 11.0
Discharging Limit Voltage 10.5
Equalize Duration 0 or set as low as possible
Boost Duration 180 minutes

I feel that their 'Float Charging Voltage' value seems better than mine, but their 'Boost Recoonect' is slightly high - I'm leaving mine at 13.2V, they switch back to "Boost Mode" a bit too aggressively IMO.
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Old 09-05-2019, 01:30 PM   #23
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I will follow your instructions exactly, rather than messing around with solder.
Wait a mo' ... The heat shrink tubing is purely for encapsulation, insulation, and protection of the joint. It does not provide mechanical strength. You should solder the connection together to give the joint strength (I always solder crimp connectors, too), and then shrink the sleeves over the soldered connection.

Sorry I wasn't more clear about that.

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Old 03-20-2020, 10:55 AM   #24
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Default 2020 Update: Now adding a second battery ...

In order to handle longer boondocks. '100Ah' batteries are down less than $400 on Alibaba Express, even though USA places have not been dropping their prices that fast. (WARNING: Alibaba and DHGate batteries are nearly always smaller than advertised, you need to have a coulomb counter meter arriving before the battery in order to test them and execute the 'product not as described' refund process.)
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Old 03-21-2020, 09:20 AM   #25
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Default Battery

I saw this advertised. Any idea of how good this company is? Prices seem competitive. https://dakotalithium.com/product/da...v=7516fd43adaa
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Old 03-21-2020, 12:02 PM   #26
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Default Wfco

What does WFCO stand for?
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Old 03-21-2020, 12:09 PM   #27
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Lightbulb Way too expensive, it's not anywhere near 'competitive'.

They're asking $899 for a very basic battery with no onboard monitor, and hitting you with another $10 for shipping.

My upcoming 'add-on' will have the same capacity, AND a monitor, for only $362 when it goes on sale March 27. Shipped free, all duties paid by them. I told them that I will be testing and throwing a fit if it isn't at least 92Ah, they said go ahead -and promised it will beat that by a large margin. (I own coulomb-counter meters.)

This one: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000595047815.html
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TV = 2007 4runner sport, with a 36 volt "power boost".
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Old 03-21-2020, 12:16 PM   #28
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Default Wfco

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Originally Posted by Casey Freswick View Post
What does WFCO stand for?
WFCO is "World Friendship Company", the maker of the TM-standard Power Converter/Load Center boxes from about 2006. I don't know if TM still uses their stuff, but their Converter Electronics Board wasn't very good in my model year. Lithium requires a new Converter Section, because the Voltage needs to be higher. You buy a "Converter Replacement Section, rather than an entire power distribution assembly, The replacement section (a big board with components, a big heatsink, and a couple of fans) replaces the corresponding WFCO board, and screws into the bottom compartment of the WFCO assembly. You need to connect only 5 wires, leaving the original WFCO 120VAC and DC 12V Distribution sections intact. It takes about 1/2 hour to do the swap-out.
I recommend and use this replacement assembly, it's bulletproof and they're an authorized Progressive Dynamics distributor: http://www.bestconverter.com/PD-4655...te-_p_677.html
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TM='06 2619 w/5K axle, 15" Maxxis "E" tires. Plumbing protector. 630 watts solar. 450AH LiFePO4 batteries, 3500 watt inverter. CR-1110 E-F/S fridge (compressor).
TV = 2007 4runner sport, with a 36 volt "power boost".
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Old 03-25-2020, 09:58 AM   #29
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Default battery

THANKS AGAIN for ALL your help and know how. Will be waiting for the sale and looking forward to following these upgrade steps. Just started ordering the parts.


Quote:
Originally Posted by rickst29 View Post
They're asking $899 for a very basic battery with no onboard monitor, and hitting you with another $10 for shipping.

My upcoming 'add-on' will have the same capacity, AND a monitor, for only $362 when it goes on sale March 27. Shipped free, all duties paid by them. I told them that I will be testing and throwing a fit if it isn't at least 92Ah, they said go ahead -and promised it will beat that by a large margin. (I own coulomb-counter meters.)

This one: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000595047815.html
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Old 03-25-2020, 10:42 AM   #30
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Lightbulb I have just one minor concern with this battery - and other recent Chinese models.

The BMS 'over volt disconnect' charging limit is 14.6V, a low figure which is becoming more prevalent in new Chinese LiFePO4 batteries. It makes charging a bit more gentle.

But IIRC, the Progressive Dynamics Lithium chargers (including my 'Wildkat') will run "Constant Voltage" at 14.7, which is too much for completing the battery charge at 100% of capacity. These batteries will pull the entire output of a Converter until they are nearly done, so a "Constant Current" limit occurs first (at a slightly lower Voltage). But when battery charging voltage begins to rise, in the last 5-10% of charge capacity, the BMS might disconnect a tiny bit earlier than you like.

OTOH: I have complained, previously, that the PD "Lithium" Converters will try to keep the battery nearly 100% charged. While good for Lead-Acid, that's not an optimal SOC for Lithium lifespan. With BMS cutting of the charger at high voltage, my complaint goes away, and the batteries will last longer.

Edit 2020-06-12: The PD does not tend to leave the battery overcharged. Not a problem!
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TV = 2007 4runner sport, with a 36 volt "power boost".
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