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Old 06-16-2015, 11:16 PM   #11
kthayes
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Originally Posted by rickst29 View Post
I'll SWAG that inverting the shank and using "appropriate" holes for the TM A-frame height will leave plenty of room, but there's a chance that you may need to add the lift kit (if it isn't already there) to get sufficient height underneath the A-frame arms.
Alright... I'm convinced That makes sense. I can raise the height of the ball mount on the shank and bring the bars up off the ground. So, I think I'm going to go with the E-Z Lift 48053 or 48052 that you referenced earlier.

One more question... should I go with the 800# or 1000# model? I realize that the tongue weight is closer to the 800# model, but should I go a bit bigger to the 1000# just to be safe? One more thought... will the 800# version allow me to use fewer links in the chain and raise the bars a bit higher?

Sorry for all the questions. I sincerely appreciate the willingness of everyone to help in this forum. It's pretty amazing and I'm glad I subscribed!

Kurt
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Old 06-16-2015, 11:44 PM   #12
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I found in another thread that 800# bars are the sweet spot for mini vans, so I went ahead and ordered the WDH. Fingers crossed that it all works.

Thank you all again for the information!

Kurt
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Old 06-17-2015, 09:10 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kthayes View Post
Alright... I'm convinced That makes sense. I can raise the height of the ball mount on the shank and bring the bars up off the ground. So, I think I'm going to go with the E-Z Lift 48053 or 48052 that you referenced earlier.

One more question... should I go with the 800# or 1000# model? I realize that the tongue weight is closer to the 800# model, but should I go a bit bigger to the 1000# just to be safe? One more thought... will the 800# version allow me to use fewer links in the chain and raise the bars a bit higher?

Sorry for all the questions. I sincerely appreciate the willingness of everyone to help in this forum. It's pretty amazing and I'm glad I subscribed!

Kurt
Either will probably be OK, but 1000 is more certain to have clearance (below the swing hitch pins). As you have read elsewhere- the low point with a round bar WDH will typically be the soft "corner" where the bars turn from round to straight at 90 degrees. Even with my 1000 bars, the ends with the chains are a bit higher off the ground than the 90 degree bar "corners".
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TV = 2007 4runner sport, with a 36 volt "power boost".
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Old 06-17-2015, 12:17 PM   #14
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I guess I am a little confused by this discussion, in particular the difference between the ground clearance of round-bar spring bars and trunnion springbars. I start off by going to the etrailer.com website and looking at WDH assemblies.

http://etrailer.com/dept-pg-Weight_D...f-WD_Only.aspx

I looked for pictures of trunnion and round bar hitches, and copied a couple of them below to compare the way they are constructed, and the way the springbars attach to the ballmount (hitch head).

The first item shown is a Reese trunnion WDH (RP66020), with a capacity of 10,000 pounds. The picture shows that the springbars come straight back out of the ballmount.

The second item shown is a Reese round bar WDH (PS49583), also with a capacity of 10,000 pounds. The picture shows that the round bars drop directly out of the bottom of the ballmount, toward the ground, before they bend backward.

Using the pictures, I'll admit that it is hard to compare them directly because the trunnion hitch head has been inverted. But you can see the difference in how the springbars attach to the ballmount. I would expect the round bar unit to have more ground clearance problems than the trunnion. As for the springbar tips, they will end up at the same distance below the trailer A-frame for both hitches, so ground clearance at the tips should be same. The problem, if any, should be up at the ballmount.

Obviously I've lost the thread here - someone straighten me out please. By the way, my TM has a swing hitch. I have never owned or used a round bar hitch. Instead I use a Reese trunnion WDH. Spring bar clearance has never been a problem, either from the ground or from the swing hitch pins. KTHayes, a picture of your setup would help me, and perhaps others, understand the problem a little better.

Bill
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Old 06-17-2015, 12:58 PM   #15
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Wink Bill: Don't look JUST where the chains attach.

Instead, look 1/3 to 1/2 the distance from the WDH ballmount to the stirrups. This is where the ends of the swing-hitch pins drop about an inch below bottom of the A-frame "arms". When the WDH stirrups are not hanging down loose, these hitch pins are the lowest point along each of the arms.

As your pictures show beautifully, the Trunnion-Bar is really tight to the A-frame arms close to the ball, and slowly increases distance below the A-frame "arms" as you move away from the ball mont - reaching maximum distance at the chains. But the Round-Bar is consistently far away, allowing for much more clearance and flex (without hitting the hitch pins) at the critical spot.

(IMO, the actually picture shows them a bit too far away: the chains shown on the very last link, and not "cinched up" shorter, as they would be in most properly-sized situations).
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Old 06-17-2015, 02:41 PM   #16
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I suspect those that have clearance problems do not have at least 19" from the top of the ball to the ground when hitched. If you start out low, it only gets worse.
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Old 06-18-2015, 04:30 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill View Post
I guess I am a little confused by this discussion, in particular the difference between the ground clearance of round-bar spring bars and trunnion springbars. I start off by going to the etrailer.com website and looking at WDH assemblies.

http://etrailer.com/dept-pg-Weight_D...f-WD_Only.aspx

I looked for pictures of trunnion and round bar hitches, and copied a couple of them below to compare the way they are constructed, and the way the springbars attach to the ballmount (hitch head).

The first item shown is a Reese trunnion WDH (RP66020), with a capacity of 10,000 pounds. The picture shows that the springbars come straight back out of the ballmount.

The second item shown is a Reese round bar WDH (PS49583), also with a capacity of 10,000 pounds. The picture shows that the round bars drop directly out of the bottom of the ballmount, toward the ground, before they bend backward.

Using the pictures, I'll admit that it is hard to compare them directly because the trunnion hitch head has been inverted. But you can see the difference in how the springbars attach to the ballmount. I would expect the round bar unit to have more ground clearance problems than the trunnion. As for the springbar tips, they will end up at the same distance below the trailer A-frame for both hitches, so ground clearance at the tips should be same. The problem, if any, should be up at the ballmount.

Obviously I've lost the thread here - someone straighten me out please. By the way, my TM has a swing hitch. I have never owned or used a round bar hitch. Instead I use a Reese trunnion WDH. Spring bar clearance has never been a problem, either from the ground or from the swing hitch pins. KTHayes, a picture of your setup would help me, and perhaps others, understand the problem a little better.

Bill
I think the issue was with the brand I bought first. The Curt 17345 trunnion-style bars have a slightly different ball mount. On the Resse WDH, notice that the ball is actually raised up slightly from the top of where the trunnion bars go into the hitch. This is not the case on the Curt brand. I've attached an image as an example. I believe this slight difference is what allows the trunnion-style Reese or Pro Series brand to work with a swing hitch whereas the Curt brand doesn't. That slight rise allows just enough room for the bars to pass under the pin that sticks out below the A frame for the swing hitch.

This is just my theory, though. I have to take the trailer out next week so I don't have time to try the Resse trunnion style. Instead, I went the safe bet and ordered the round bars. If they end up sitting too low, I will return them after my trip and order the Reese Pro Seies trunnion bars.

Kurt
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Old 06-18-2015, 04:34 PM   #18
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It wouldn't let me attach 2 images from my phone for some reason so here's the other image.
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Old 06-19-2015, 09:03 AM   #19
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KTHayes -

I think you may have found the issue. It seems to me that way back in the mists of time (10 years ago?), another member had the same problem with a Curt hitch. Let us know the ultimate answer.

And just FYI, Apple products (iPhone, iPad, etc) do something weird that limits you to one picture per post. Android phones do not do that.

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Old 06-19-2015, 11:54 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill View Post
KTHayes -

I think you may have found the issue. It seems to me that way back in the mists of time (10 years ago?), another member had the same problem with a Curt hitch. Let us know the ultimate answer.

And just FYI, Apple products (iPhone, iPad, etc) do something weird that limits you to one picture per post. Android phones do not do that.

Bill
I believe you guys do have nailed it. We hooked up our 2720 to the Durango yesterday for a one night dry camping trip nearby on the banks of the Elk River in North Routt Co. The low spot w/ our Pro Series RB3 round bars actually is at the chain end tip rather than the proximal bend site ("2 washers and one link in from the end of the chain).

Checked out everything (but the AC) on our new coach (love the simplicity of the thetford curve and have a Shurflo pump that works and doesn't leak now) but failed to get the Dometic refrig to fire up despite 30 attempts (only tic-ticked two or three of the 30 attempts but no cooling despite propane reaching the range and furnace). Ugh. Will have to do some reading on the TM forum. Hints? Dave
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