Help choosing a WDH for 2619 w/ Swing Hitch

[kthayes]

Hello everyone,

I have been searching this board all night and am hoping you can point me in the right direction. I recently bought a 2007 2619 that has a swing hitch. I bought a Curt brand WDH from Amazon that was rated at 500lbs tongue weight (model 17345).

After installing the WDH, I found that I could only go 6 links out on each chain otherwise the trunnion bars would hit the bottom of the pins from the swing hitch. This being the case, the bars barely did anything to raise the back on my TV (Toyota Sienna). I could actually raise the levers that hold the chains by hand... there was very little tension on the bars at this 6-link setting. Also, I have the ball tilted as far back as it would go.

I am going to return the WDH to Amazon (-$30 for return shipping), but I am really gun shy on ordering a new one. I see a lot of people successfully using WDHs on this board, but I can't seem to find a part number for one that definitely works with a swing hitch and my Sienna.

Is anyone willing to give me a strong recommendation for my setup? Also, I am looking to stay under $300, if possible.

Thank you!

Kurt

[jswinner]

I have an Anderson No Sway on my 2417 with swing hitch. But it is over your budget at 450.

Jeff

[rickst29]

Your other mistake was buying a 'trunnion bar' style. In order to stay clear of the swing hitch locking pins, you will also want to go with a 'round bar' style, where each bar contains
a big "L" shaped curve to bring the horizontal portion of the bar closer to the ground where it attaches at the Head.

The big question with sizing for the TMs with swing hitch is, how much bar length do you need to clear the hitch - while staying "in front" of the LP Gas tanks, which are pretty tight to the A-frame (and will prevent you from clamping the stirrups that far back). My own WDH bars are 32" long, but my WDH was an after-market modification by the Dealer's Welder - not the TM original version.

The E-Z Lift 48053 might be a match.For mine, this would also be perfect: http://www.etrailer.com/Weight-Distr...s/PS49583.html

[stormpeakco]

Originally Posted by kthayes

Hello everyone,

I have been searching this board all night and am hoping you can point me in the right direction. I recently bought a 2007 2619 that has a swing hitch. I bought a Curt brand WDH from Amazon that was rated at 500lbs tongue weight (model 17345).

After installing the WDH, I found that I could only go 6 links out on each chain otherwise the trunnion bars would hit the bottom of the pins from the swing hitch. This being the case, the bars barely did anything to raise the back on my TV (Toyota Sienna). I could actually raise the levers that hold the chains by hand... there was very little tension on the bars at this 6-link setting. Also, I have the ball tilted as far back as it would go.

I am going to return the WDH to Amazon (-$30 for return shipping), but I am really gun shy on ordering a new one. I see a lot of people successfully using WDHs on this board, but I can't seem to find a part number for one that definitely works with a swing hitch and my Sienna.

Is anyone willing to give me a strong recommendation for my setup? Also, I am looking to stay under $300, if possible.

Thank you!

Kurt

Kurt, (like rickst29 suggested) we have a 2720 QB w/o swing hitch and purchased a 750# RB3.
When you find the length round bar that you need I would highly recommend checking out the Etrailer prices ($214, that includes shipping) and their great helpful videos.
http://etrailer.com/Weight-Distribut...s/PS49581.html

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O1ASWIV38-o

Good luck (FYI-as a reference-Dodge Durango, 2 washers, 2nd from the end chain link).

[Padgett]

There are other options if your main purpose is levelling the vehicle that can be used alone or in conjunction with a WDH like this.

[rickst29]

Originally Posted by Padgett

There are other options if your main purpose is leveling the vehicle that can be used alone or in conjunction with a WDH like this.

This could be a good strategy with many pickup trucks, but I disagree with this strategy for a minivan: Air springs will level the TV, but will NOT restore proper weight ratios between the front versus rear axles. I think that steering control and braking would be compromised without a WDH - and with a properly adjusted WDH, the additional pressure on the TV axles will be equalized (done right, it's ALREADY level).

[duvalbirder]

A couple of months ago, we purchased a 2007 2720SL. Since neither of us is all that handy, we took the camper and tow vehicle to a place that does hitches. They put on one that uses bars instead of chains. Here is a link showing the hitch: http://www.uhaul.com/MovingSupplies/...ntrol?id=16641

[kthayes]

Thanks so much, everyone! I am a little stuck as I read that the round bar style units sit lower than the trunnion style bars. I'm worried that the bars will be too low on my Sienna mini van.

Has anyone used the round bar style WDH on a mini van? If so, we're you able to clear what you needed (like speed bumps)?

The other straight bar, no chain, style that was posted seems like a newer design, however, they all seem to be about $250-300 more than the trunnion or round bar style.

I'm caught between a rock and a hard place I guess. The trunnion I bought binds with the swing hitch, the round bars worry me that they'll be too low, and the straight bars are too expensive. LOL. It's never easy!

[stormpeakco]

Originally Posted by kthayes

Thanks so much, everyone! I am a little stuck as I read that the round bar style units sit lower than the trunnion style bars. I'm worried that the bars will be too low on my Sienna mini van.

Has anyone used the round bar style WDH on a mini van? If so, we're you able to clear what you needed (like speed bumps)?

The other straight bar, no chain, style that was posted seems like a newer design, however, they all seem to be about $250-300 more than the trunnion or round bar style.

I'm caught between a rock and a hard place I guess. The trunnion I bought binds with the swing hitch, the round bars worry me that they'll be too low, and the straight bars are too expensive. LOL. It's never easy!

Should you receive several positive responses from forum participants, great.

If there isn't much shared experience amongst the forum folks, I'd strongly consider contacting (email) the etrailer folks about your concerns (w/ some photos of your "old" WDH, swing-away hitch (perhaps w/ a yard stick, as reference) and provide some measurements-like coupler height when your 2619 is level. They do seem to have a vast amount of experience and saving a couple hundred bucks may worth bouncing stuff off them.

Our TM has the ~2.5" optional lift and thus the coupler height seems generous with our Durango and speed bump clearance doesn't appear to be a concern (I'm not stating that you should consider the lift as a remedy but it does seem to provide significant improved clearance). At least forum member has taken down their swing away hitch due to ongoing structural issues (though nearly all others seem thoroughly pleased with their set up).

good luck.

[rickst29]

Originally Posted by kthayes

Thanks so much, everyone! I am a little stuck as I read that the round bar style units sit lower than the trunnion style bars. I'm worried that the bars will be too low on my Sienna mini van....

The 'RB3' which I pointed at can have the shank "flipped", relative to the bar mount on your minivan: You could then assemble the hitch using the highest possible holes, raising the hitch ball up to 6-1/2" above the TV bar mount midpoint. I think that's more than enough 'range' in mounting height options to handle the minvan end successfully. On the TM A-frame side: Does your 2619 include the lift kit? How much clearance exists now, when it is lifted to be level to the ground?

(We can't use my own "2619" for comparison, because it was actually built like a raised 3024: 5000 lb axle, 15" rims, and lift kit.) But with most trailers, the lowest height (relative to ground) will be occurring at the 90% turn within the round bars (directly below their insertion into the "head"). When cinched up, the bars will rise just a bit from that point (with the "small" ends, where the chains attach, a bit higher from the ground).

I'll SWAG that inverting the shank and using "appropriate" holes for the TM A-frame height will leave plenty of room, but there's a chance that you may need to add the lift kit (if it isn't already there) to get sufficient height underneath the A-frame arms.