Handrails / grab handles /3326 roof latch / backing plates, etc

[mjlaupp]

Originally Posted by dlkcub

Can you post a picture of the backing plate on your TM. Also a picture of your roof latch from the outside. I need to do something to make mine a little more stable.

Thanks

Dave

3326 Roof Latch
I don't have a picture. Mine was loose and leaking on top of the wardrobe so I resealed and tightened it:
1) Find a 2" thick dry sponge + spacers to use on top of the wardrobe to hold the backing plate in place.
2) Remove the nuts and washers holding the saddle on the outside of the roof and remove the saddle and plate.
3) Remove the sponge from inside and pull the reinforcing plate and bolts down and out.
4) Clean all old caulking from the area.
5) Feed the bolts back through the backing plate. (I don't remember if they are attached or not)
6) Put new caulking on the bolts, push the bolts up through the roof and hold the backing plate and bolts in place with the sponge.
7) Apply liberal amounts of caulking on the roof where the saddle plate is to be installed. ( I used white silicone)
8) Bed the saddle plate down over the bolts and put a dab more caulk on the bolt ends. (The caulk on the bolts will act like locktite and provide additional sealing)
9) Install the nuts and washers and tighten a little past snug. Too much and you will crush the roof.
10) Remove the excess caulk leaving a good seal around the plate.
11) Let everything cure for a couple days before latching this shell catch.
12) Clean the caulk off of/out of the wrench you used.

[mjlaupp]

Originally Posted by MisterP

IMO, using a backing plate on these handles would reduce the chance of a bolt pulling through the wall later on. Even 2 or 3 inches square with the bolt in the middle distributes the stress over a much larger area. Our roof latch on the 3324 uses a backing plate on the ceiling for that reason.

Backing plates are very common on boats, particularly sailboats where the bolt loading can be quite large. Look at it as cheap insurance.

Or fender washers.

I agree. I already considered fender washers or a back plate. No telling who is going to think they can swing on such a handle. The better it and distribute the load the less likely it will damage the shell...

Originally Posted by mjlaupp

Or fender washers.

Possibly, although I would be tempted to use a larger backing plate. Worst case scenario, what if you dragged the side of the TM along a tree and ran into the handle. However you install it should resist a sudden shear load to prevent it tearing out of the wall. Fender washers may be enough, I have no data one way or the other.

(And I realize dragging the TM along a tree creates other issues, was simply trying to offer an example where a user-installed exterior handle could be stressed)

excellent description of the job...

Originally Posted by mjlaupp

I don't have a picture. Mine was loose and leaking on top of the wardrobe so I resealed and tightened it:
1) Find a 2" thick dry sponge + spacers to use on top of the wardrobe to hold the backing plate in place.
2) Remove the nuts and washers holding the saddle on the outside of the roof and remove the saddle and plate.
3) Remove the sponge from inside and pull the reinforcing plate and bolts down and out.
4) Clean all old caulking from the area.
5) Feed the bolts back through the backing plate. (I don't remember if they are attached or not)
6) Put new caulking on the bolts, push the bolts up through the roof and hold the backing plate and bolts in place with the sponge.
7) Apply liberal amounts of caulking on the roof where the saddle plate is to be installed. ( I used white silicone)
8) Bed the saddle plate down over the bolts and put a dab more caulk on the bolt ends. (The caulk on the bolts will act like locktite and provide additional sealing)
9) Install the nuts and washers and tighten a little past snug. Too much and you will crush the roof.
10) Remove the excess caulk leaving a good seal around the plate.
11) Let everything cure for a couple days before latching this shell catch.
12) Clean the caulk off of/out of the wrench you used.

[wbmiller3]

Did this thread get spawned from somewhere else? It just seems to pick up with no explanation of what the original mod idea was.

[mjlaupp]

Originally Posted by wbmiller3

Did this thread get spawned from somewhere else? It just seems to pick up with no explanation of what the original mod idea was.

It was cut from another thread. Post #6 by Earl should be the thread starter.

Bill?

edit: I stand corrected.

[Bill]

It was pulled from the thread about removing the dinette table from a 3326 (ng2951). Post number one is the first mention of a handrail, and it veered off from there.

Bill

Yeah, I did not mind the handrail part being pulled off from the dinette table. Od though the idea for removing the dinette table came about because the dinette seat screws were pulling away from the wall.

Though the rails and dinnette seat removal are related things (the back of the dinnette seat has the interior handrail). It probably better serves the community as its own thread.

It seems that a number of TM owners have considered an exterior handrail.

After looking at Earl's setup I am more inclined to the lower profile unit. Still I want to think about it more after my next trip. What I am wondering about is whether the bigger unit might offer better stability when descending the stairs. I think the lower profile unit offers better stability ascending than descending...

There are two handrail issues being discussed here. My original comment was that the removal of the forward dinette seat in a 3326 also removes an interior handrail next to the door that my wife depends on because of her bad knee.

This eventually evolved to an exterior handrail discussion and so on.

I don't intend to remove the dinette seat, but am still curious how to deal with the loss of the handrail. One installed on the outside of the door only gets you halfway up the steps.

Mea culpa if my original question led to a thread hijack.