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Old 01-29-2011, 07:36 AM   #1
TravlinOn
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Default Questions: use of P3 Brake Controller

I, too, am planning an exchange of brake controllers from my current Reese to a Prodigy P3 proportional controller. I have a couple of questions:

1. The P3 can toggle back and forth between for use with electric braking or for use with “electric over hydraulic braking” systems. I assume that when it is used with a TM trailer only the electric braking feature would ever be in use. Correct?

2. On eTrailer's site the listing for the P3 (for use with a 2010 Ford-150) there is also a sidebar ad for an “In-Line Circuit Breaker” – 20 or 30 amp. Checking around for possible reasons why anyone would want an easy way to “take out” the P3, I found only a couple of possibilities:

a. Use the Circuit Breaker to disallow the Controller to drain the battery when vehicle is not in use, and/or

b. Use the Circuit Breaker to disallow the Controller to govern trailer brakes when backing into a site that has a slope at some point.

Am I correct in any of the above? Are there other reasons to use or not to use a breaker or to use the "electric over hydraulic" option?

Thanks.
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Old 01-29-2011, 08:46 AM   #2
Mr. Adventure
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TravlinOn View Post
I, too, am planning an exchange of brake controllers from my current Reese to a Prodigy P3 proportional controller. I have a couple of questions:

1. The P3 can toggle back and forth between for use with electric braking or for use with “electric over hydraulic braking” systems. I assume that when it is used with a TM trailer only the electric braking feature would ever be in use. Correct?

2. On eTrailer's site the listing for the P3 (for use with a 2010 Ford-150) there is also a sidebar ad for an “In-Line Circuit Breaker” – 20 or 30 amp. Checking around for possible reasons why anyone would want an easy way to “take out” the P3, I found only a couple of possibilities:

a. Use the Circuit Breaker to disallow the Controller to drain the battery when vehicle is not in use, and/or

b. Use the Circuit Breaker to disallow the Controller to govern trailer brakes when backing into a site that has a slope at some point.

Am I correct in any of the above? Are there other reasons to use or not to use a breaker or to use the "electric over hydraulic" option?

Thanks.
1. Yes, I think. The P3's only inputs (other than power) are electric from the same switch under the dash that runs the brake lights, and of course the deceleration it senses. The output to the trailer brakes is only electric. I haven't heard of electro-hydraulic brakes on an RV but maybe there's a future possibility out there somewhere.

2. If I remember correctly, the wiring bundle from the brake controller has an inline fuse supplied. The power supply for the brake controller should be on the switched side of the ignition switch, so there's no battery drain issue to worry about. There's not an issue about backing, because the p3/prodigy doesn't activate without the brake pedal. In extreme/clever backing circumstances where you are applying the brakes at the same time while backing up a hill there might be a hypothetical possibility, but it's never actually happened to me (I often back up a long driveway with occasional (ahem) stops and adjustments enroute). I don't know an operational reason to disconnect the brake controller, but I do pull the plug on mine and put it away when I'm not going to be towing for awhile, just for a little bit better knee clearance.
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Old 01-29-2011, 11:53 AM   #3
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Default Questions: use of P3 Brake Controller

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1. Yes, I think. The P3's only inputs (other than power) are electric from the same switch under the dash that runs the brake lights, and of course the deceleration it senses. The output to the trailer brakes is only electric. I haven't heard of electro-hydraulic brakes on an RV but maybe there's a future possibility out there somewhere.

2. If I remember correctly, the wiring bundle from the brake controller has an inline fuse supplied. The power supply for the brake controller should be on the switched side of the ignition switch, so there's no battery drain issue to worry about. There's not an issue about backing, because the p3/prodigy doesn't activate without the brake pedal. In extreme/clever backing circumstances where you are applying the brakes at the same time while backing up a hill there might be a hypothetical possibility, but it's never actually happened to me (I often back up a long driveway with occasional (ahem) stops and adjustments enroute). I don't know an operational reason to disconnect the brake controller, but I do pull the plug on mine and put it away when I'm not going to be towing for awhile, just for a little bit better knee clearance.
Thanks. That helps clear up some of the fog in my head. I thought I knew that the TM's brakes are electrically governed but have yet to crawl under and take a look. From other posts here, checking out the complete electrical system to the brakes seems to be a necessity before my next trip.

On the issue of the breaker switch, on further reflection, I think the situation might arise if the controller is set to be sensitive to stops in traffic conditions, the backing is downhill where braking is necessary, the pavement is wet, and the trailer brakes then stutter and skid repeatedly.

Don't laugh, I know that this is a pretty rare set of circumstances, but then the part only costs three or four dollars.
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Old 01-29-2011, 12:03 PM   #4
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The circuit breaker is used in place of a fuse and is wired directly to the battery to provide the necessary current to the brake controller. The circuit breaker is self-resetting and doesn't have a switch like circuit breakers in your house. It's only purpose is to protect the wire and controller from a fire if there is a short circuit.
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Old 01-29-2011, 12:24 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gmferg View Post
The circuit breaker is used in place of a fuse and is wired directly to the battery to provide the necessary current to the brake controller. The circuit breaker is self-resetting and doesn't have a switch like circuit breakers in your house. It's only purpose is to protect the wire and controller from a fire if there is a short circuit.
You beat me to the answers but I did use a Auto Reset Circuit breaker .

The P3 doesn't seem to drain the battery since it automatically turns itself off & on with time & brake pedal. I never bother with it unless it is being used with a trailer. It turns on & says No Trailer or something similar.

Now the P3 also has a temporary bypass feature for backing. If I remember correctly you push & hold the button in the upper right corner & it sets it to bypass for a few minutes so no breaking is applied. You also can still use the manual lever if needed & you can quickly reengage the controller with a button push.


Another thing I like about the P3 is the display & quick boost settings so if in traffic you can change the way it applies the brakes.
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Old 01-29-2011, 12:36 PM   #6
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The TM brakes are 100% electric. Absolutely no hydraulic components.

I have a P3, and I don't see the need to disconnect it, ever. It has never been removed or even disconnected from the vehicle since installation, and I have backed uphill, downhill, sideways, haven't driven the vehicle in weeks, etc.

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Old 01-29-2011, 01:55 PM   #7
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The P3 is made removable as a theft deterrent (I believe)..... Sorta like removable radio-face-plates.

This may be handy if you ever use long term storage (like remote airport parking lots) where you want to remove everything that could possibly attract a thief (to avoid getting a window smashed out).

I have never removed my controller other than when I bought our new truck (I moved it from one truck to the other).
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Old 01-30-2011, 06:53 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TravlinOn View Post
...
On the issue of the breaker switch, on further reflection, I think the situation might arise if the controller is set to be sensitive to stops in traffic conditions, the backing is downhill where braking is necessary, the pavement is wet, and the trailer brakes then stutter and skid repeatedly.
...
Backing downhill might not activate the trailer brakes, but the manual lever would. The Prodigy is pretty well behaved, and it's adjustments are handy. However, in a real situation you don't have a lot of time to fiddle with buttons or switches, particularly circuit breakers that would be down the wire under the dash.

I think any kind of on-off switch to the brake controller is a bad idea because it's a too-easy way to find yourself driving without the trailer brakes someday.
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Old 01-30-2011, 10:01 AM   #9
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Thanks everyone! A new P3 is on order from eTrailer and I am looking forward to (hopefully) a problem free installation and use.
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Old 01-30-2011, 11:27 AM   #10
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Thanks everyone! A new P3 is on order from eTrailer and I am looking forward to (hopefully) a problem free installation and use.
As long as you are somewhat mechanically inclined & have a little wiring knowledge it is a piece of cake to install. What ever you do even if you have a factory wiring setup remember a larger gauge wire for your charge wire.

You will also need the auto rest breaker since the P3 doesn't come with one.
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