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Old 11-13-2011, 01:28 AM   #21
mjlaupp
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Does anyone know if their aftermarket controller which work better in these situations?
True Control by Hensley Mfg.
http://www.brake-controller.com/index.html
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Mike Laupp

2013 Jayco Eagle Premier 351RLTS 5er - Honda 2000i x2 w ext. run tank

2017 F350 King Ranch ultimate CCLB SRW 6.7L V8 TD Fx4 BakFlip F1 & BakBox

TM History: '97 2720, '02 2720SL, '03 2720SL, '04 3326K. 2001 - 2012 yrs owned.

1990 Isuzu Trooper II 283 V6
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Old 11-13-2011, 06:54 AM   #22
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Thanks Mike. That Hensley unit does indeed look nice.
I especially like the current display option.

Do you have one?
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Old 11-13-2011, 07:44 AM   #23
hjbourge
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Brulaz, I just read your post on the Ford F-150 Ecoboost BiTurbo, Integrated Brake Controller, Trailer Mirrors, Rear-View Camera, I have looked at that truck on the lot and wonder how you were able to get the manufactor discount of $12,000. Was this a special that they were running as the price we say of 45K looked to high for us, but if I got that plus my trade it would be bought. Right now we pull a TM2720SD with a Honda Ridgeline but want to up grade our trailer to something larger and the Honda only has a 5K tow rate, which on our cross country trip pushed the truck to it's max.
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2720SD TM 2010 model
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Old 11-13-2011, 10:47 AM   #24
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Brulaz, I just read your post on the Ford F-150 Ecoboost BiTurbo, Integrated Brake Controller, Trailer Mirrors, Rear-View Camera, I have looked at that truck on the lot and wonder how you were able to get the manufactor discount of $12,000. Was this a special that they were running as the price we say of 45K looked to high for us, but if I got that plus my trade it would be bought. Right now we pull a TM2720SD with a Honda Ridgeline but want to up grade our trailer to something larger and the Honda only has a 5K tow rate, which on our cross country trip pushed the truck to it's max.
Last July and August Ford was running some major factory discounts to clear off a backlog of 2011 models. You could go on their website and "build" your truck and get MSRP and the discount calculated.

The discounts depended upon the options and model you chose. In our case the window placard said Can$44.5K before the discounts and Can$32.5K after. The dealer did not offer any further price reduction, but we were able to save several hundred $ by ordering the Leer Cap through them.

Now that the 2012 models are out, I'm not sure if these discounts are still available.
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Old 11-13-2011, 01:50 PM   #25
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Thanks Brulaz. I will go to Ford's web site and see what I can come up with. Happy camping.
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Old 10-06-2012, 02:27 PM   #26
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Earlier in this thread I mentioned that the suspension of our 2011 F150 seemed soft. Fine when not loaded, but too "floaty" when loaded (typically with 1500-1800#). Our previous 4x4 (Tacoma) was very stiff, a real "neck-breaker" when unloaded but very good when loaded up. At the time I thought it was because the F150 was a 4x2.

Not so. Since then I've been discussing this with other Ford F150 owners on another forum, and it seems to be an issue with all standard F150's. The truck's suspension is designed for commuters and occasional towers/haulers, not for operating fully loaded full-time. Maybe I'm just being fussy, but IMHO, the shocks are weak, the springs sag when loaded fully, and the P-metric tires are squirmy.

The solution, apparently, is to order your F150 with the Heavy Duty Payload option (or go up to an F250) . This will give you heavier rear springs, heavy duty shocks and LT tires. It will also give you a heavy duty rear end and rims that increases your payload substantially.

But I didn't need the payload increase, just the stiffer suspension. And besides the HD Payload option is only available in certain F150 models and configurations ... not mine. So using the HD Payload option as a guide, over the last year I've switched to Michelin LTX MS/2 LT-metric tires on 17" rims, changed the regular shocks to Ford's HD Payload shocks and added an aftermarket rear spring called Roadmaster Active Suspension.

Taken together these have given me the suspension I've been looking for. And I'm now a happy camper, literally!
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Old 10-06-2012, 06:13 PM   #27
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Don't forget that if the circumference (diameter) if the tire has changed then the speedometer is no longer accurate.

As I was reading this my first guess was P instead of LT tires. That one is a cheap no brainier.
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Old 10-06-2012, 07:14 PM   #28
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Don't forget that if the circumference (diameter) if the tire has changed then the speedometer is no longer accurate.

As I was reading this my first guess was P instead of LT tires. That one is a cheap no brainier.
The new tires are 1.4% smaller in diameter than the originals. So the speedo should give slightly higher readings than with the old tires, ... I think ... (it's late).

But to be honest I'm not sure how accurate the speedo was with the original tires.

I've been told that the speedo calibration can be changed internally by entering a new tire size into the truck's computer. But when I mentioned that to the dealer, all I got back was a blank stare. But these are the same people that insisted that the LT tires should be inflated to the same 35psi as the original P-metric tires, which would give them LESS weight carrying capacity than the originals.

When I switched tires, I also switched rims from 20" to 17" as 20" LT tires were *much* more expensive than the 17" (~$430 vs $250ea), and I couldn't get the LT version of the Michelin LTX MS/2's in a 20". Also I'd heard that the extra sidewall would provide some cushioning and pothole protection.
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Old 10-06-2012, 08:57 PM   #29
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Not bashing anyone's trucks... and not trying to start an F150 love-in

but, if you have half the luck I have had with my last two F150's (over 19 years), you're gonna love it!

And for gas mileage, we just got a new Escape Ecoboost (not for pulling, still have the F150)
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