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Old 04-07-2010, 10:01 AM   #1
Redhawk
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Default When setting hitch height....

I was wondering how most of you set the TM? Do you set the hitch height for a level TM or TM slightly angled down in front? Or should I measure tongue weight and set it for that?

I'm changing TV and going to 15" tires, so I'll need to adj the WDH for proper towing.

Thanks for any replies.
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Old 04-07-2010, 10:23 AM   #2
Bill
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The TM should tow level, once it is loaded and the WDH springbars are raised. That means that before you raise the springbars, the TM will be a bit nose-down. It is my experience (and my expectation) that your first guess at hitch height will not be quite right. It is a two-step process.

Set the hitch height at your best guess - many people say 19" - then hook up the trailer and raise the springbars. The TM will probably not be quite level, so measure how much you have to raise or lower the hitch to bring it to level. Unhitch, adjust the hitch height, hitch up again and raise the springbars. With any luck, you are just right.

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Old 04-07-2010, 12:14 PM   #3
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On a related note. What do you use to determine TM level?

When I setup, I use various points to get a rough idea. The awning case seems like it is pretty fair fore-aft and I use the hitch behind the swing away. Neither of these is ideal. The awning is attached to the shell and the hitch almost provides a left-right indication, but it is a tight fit and forget fore-aft.

After I am close and raise the shells, I then tweak using the floor. I considered gluing the exterior level indicators on, but I am not sure that the shell doesn't have enough position variation to make them any better than what I am doing, still resulting in correcting from a level on the floor.

I have read some archive posts on the subject and I come away thiniking that gluing a small level indicator on a 'floating' shell is not going to give me a very good level.
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Old 04-07-2010, 12:34 PM   #4
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I also tow my TM so that the frame is parallel to the ground.

As far as leveling when setting up, I glued a bubble level to the lower exterior wall of the TM, which is fixed in relation to the frame and does not move like the shells. It is glued in a place which is visible through one of the shell windows when the TM is closed. I actually used the curb side window that is at the back when the shells are down. This measures front/back leveling.

For side-to-side leveling, I glued another level to the bumper.

This way, I can level the TM prior to setting up the shells, which I think is critical. Works perfect every time.

Dave
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Old 04-07-2010, 08:12 PM   #5
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Level when setting up may be different from level while towing. For level while towing, it is easy. Check the distance from the frame rails to the ground up at the front, and then do it again at the back.

BTW, I tried gluing levels to the shell. It didn't work, for exactly the reasons you say - the shells can move. Dave's approach would be much better. I do it a bit different. I simply put a 6 inch magnetic carpenter's level on the frame rails near the propane tanks, first side-to-side, then fore-and-aft. Seems to produce acceptable results, but I have to be sure that the level is in my towing-stuff box

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Old 04-07-2010, 09:18 PM   #6
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As to "Gluing" the levels.......be careful, heat will sometimes cause the glue to let the level slip. Best to use a glue that doesn't get soft in the heat. The glue that comes on those "Stick-on" levels is terrible for slipping.
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Old 04-07-2010, 11:29 PM   #7
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I have these stick-on levels, and have been in temps hotter than 100 F and cooler than 15 F, rain, beating sun, and snow, over the course of 3 years. So far, so good.

http://www.campingworld.com/shopping...set-of-2/47550

I could certainly see how they could slip, but mine haven't. Be sure to clean the surface thoroughly before applying. One number on the level = 1 Lynx leveler, which I think is an inch.

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