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Old 08-27-2021, 03:44 PM   #11
Onyrlef
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Yep, take it to a shop where they can tig weld it. It'll take all of five minutes. Those are sink clips, any hardware store will have them. I know they're a pita but if you'll double up on them where you can you won't have to crank down so much and you'll displace the tension across the rail. If you have enough overlap where the lip lays on the countertop drop the sink in to exactly where you want it, then outline it with a pencil, remove the sink and lay a bed of clear silicone on the left, right and front (where you can slide a blade under it if you ever need to lift it out), then reposition the sink and clamp it down. Clean up the excess silicone w/ thinner and the residue with hot soap and water. Make sure you don't have any tension on the drain fittings,when you fit them back in, you may even want to use a flex tail piece if you're having trouble with the sink coming loose.
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Old 08-27-2021, 08:24 PM   #12
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Thanks for all the suggestions. But since the new sink is only about $100 and includes clamps, I'd rather just get that vs. going through the hassle of seeking out a welding shop willing to do such a small job (and probably paying close to $100 to do it).

So, I went ahead with the approach I described, though I used PC7 epoxy instead of JB Weld. It's still curing, so I will report back after install. If it fails, I'll only be out about $20 and I'll get a new sink and practice my contortionist skills.

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Old 09-23-2021, 06:26 PM   #13
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Update: So, I used these under-sink mounting clips, designed to hold up a household sink under a countertop.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0878Z7Z1F

After trimming the sides of some of them for the front and back of the sink, I epoxied them to the underside of the sink using PC-7 epoxy (see below photos). After it cured, I mounted the sink using the wing nuts that came with the brackets. Took about 20 minutes to get all the screws, as compared to hours using the OEM method, which also didn't work well.

If I were a manufacturer, I would be finessing this solution, like cutting the brackets a bit to make them shorter (particularly for the two brackets on the front middle of the sink) and making the bolts longer. But ultimately, this solution as is ended up working out great. The sink is more secure than it's ever been in the ~15 years I've had the TM, even after a road test on a 3-mile long dirt road in pretty rough shape. Cheap, and far easier and more effective than the OEM method (and by OEM, I mean by both TM and the sink manufacturer.) Hopefully the success continues.

Dave
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Old 09-23-2021, 07:06 PM   #14
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I assume the OEM monitors this site, but maybe email them this info directly. And good job.
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