Towing with 4Runner (newbie questions)

waldonew · 08-22-2017, 08:25 PM

I'm a new owner of a TM 2720 and a Toyota 4Runner. I'm also new to trailering. I've been all over this Towing Rigs discussion and a couple of 4Runner ones too and have a few questions:

It appears that while there are lots of opinions about whether or not to use a WDH, a common suggestion seems to be try going without it and see how it handles. I'm in favor of that for several reasons: simplicity, cost saving, etc. So now I need to buy a standard hitch. But I'm not sure what exactly is required. I understand I need a ball mount (shank) and a ball to insert into the 4Runner's class 3 receiver. But I've seen ball mounts in different shapes to position the ball at different heights. What is the correct height? Somewhere in the hundreds of comments I've read someone said 19.5 inches to the top of the ball worked well for them. Is this a reasonable amount in general? I also read the trailer should be level or slightly lower at the tongue. I'm at a chicken-and-egg thing on that, since the previous owner brought the trailer to a non-level spot in my yard and I need the hitch components before I can move the trailer to a level spot. Anyway, all suggestions welcome. Oh, and I assume the ball size is 2"...yes?

Regarding the 4Runner and WDH, if I determine I'd like to use one, I read in one thread in a 4Runner forum that WDH is not recommended in late model V6 4Runners. The person posting said that the fact that the hitch receiver is attached to the cross member (inside the bumper) rather than the two side rails (main frame) meant the torque exerted by the WDH might cause the cross member to deform or possibly fail altogether. He said the owners manual stated a WDH should not be used, although I could find no such information in my manual. Any thoughts on this?

I'm glad this forum is here, it's a great resource. I'm sure I'll have more questions in the coming months. Thanks!

Padgett · 08-22-2017, 08:33 PM

Since the 2720 is a single axle trailer, the exact angle is not too important as long as you don't drag the tail. For me without the lift kit between 19" and 20" works well. My Jeep uses a 3 1/4" drop with a wrap of duct tape to prevent rattling.

pnopper · 08-22-2017, 11:35 PM

Until recently my TV was a Mazda CX9. I used to have a 2619 Trailmanor and I towed it with a 2" rise on the ball hitch. I never had a load leveler and it towed wonderfully with very little drop on the car rear end.

Two years ago I upgraded to a 2720 and got a surprise when I found the trailer was lifted higher and tongue weight heavier and I needed about a 4"+ rise to get the trailer home. The guy selling the trailer gave me his load leveler. The load leveler assembly ball had about a 4" rise so I used it. He talked me into hooking up the bars, otherwise I would have just thrown them in the back of the car and not used them, that is how confident I am in not needing them. However, with the car loaded up with family and gear my car was sagging more with the 2720 than the old 2619 so I started using the bars on the load leveler.

I would try going without a load leveler first. You probably wont get the hitch height right the first time so just go to Walmart, buy the drop or rise you think you need and install it (or borrow something from a friend). When you get it wrong, measure the difference of where you want to be and go buy the correct one.

The only issue you might have is the back of the TV riding lower than you want when fully loaded with gear and towing. If no issue then you are done. If you are riding too low your choices are beefing up the suspension or using the load leveler.

bheisser · 08-23-2017, 06:04 PM

I have a 2720 sl tow with a Tacoma , no wdh but added firestone air rite airbags to "level" things out

[email protected] · 08-25-2017, 07:59 AM

Hi

I have a 2004 2027 and an 8 cylinder 2002 Toyota 4Runner. And yes it is true that Toyota doesn't want you to use a weight distribution hitch on a 6 cylinder.
I do use a EAZ LIFT load leveling anti-sway hitch. Though I didn't have any issues with sway, the 300 plus tongue weight dragged the back end down. I have only been using the EAZ for 2 years and like it a lot, which also means that I lived without it for 11 years. But you really have no options for the 6 unless you can find a hitch guy that can beef up the way the hitch is attached
on your 4Runner. It will be a very sad day when my 8 dies!

**rickst29** · 02-08-2018, 02:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by [email protected]

I have a 2004 2027 and an 8 cylinder 2002 Toyota 4Runner. And yes it is true that Toyota doesn't want you to use a weight distribution hitch on a 6 cylinder!

Yeah, but their actual vehicle build structure seems to support it OK. For small trailers, such as TM, Gen-4 works great with WDH, in both the V6 and V8 versions. And I have owned and towed the TM with both vehicles. (Our V8 was totaled in the middle of a "chain-reaction" accident from behind; we replaced it with a V6-Sport.)

The Gen-4 V6 has the hitch receiver bolted into a square square frame "cross-bar" (with 4 very good bolts). But the cross bar is built in 3 segments, involving 4 welds. The V8 is stronger, bringing the frame out as a round tube, and welding the hitch receiver to the frame tubing (fewer welds, stronger structure, no piercings).

But the difference seems irrelevant for towing small TM Trailers. IIRC the V8 style was "rated" for 7300 lbs, and the V6 style was "rated" for only 5000. Even with the caveat that TMs should be towed with more tongue weight than some other kinds of trailers, there's adequate "headroom" on the V6 versions to handle a 2619 or 2720 pretty easily, and perhaps some larger TMs as well.

I can't comment on the 2016 hitch receiver mount structure, because I've never looked at one with "performance and capacity" issues in mind. It might be a lot different, and a lot weaker, than the "Gen-4" assembly which I own.

In 2002 - in that year, Toyota introduced the "new" 4Runner line-up mid-year, so I don't know if yours is older (Gen-3) or newer (Gen-4). I can't comment on the older design. In practice, regardless of Toyota Marketing statements, the V6 does fine with a WDH - loaded with a small TM at about 4500 lbs GVW. I have (probably) the fattest, heaviest-loaded "2619" on the planet, and I've used a WDH consistently. After over 10 years of use, the hitch receiver and crossbar frame members still look great,:unbent and uncracked, with no issues on the welds. In contrast, running without a WDH (which I did for about a week) lifts the front end of the 4R, badly reducing brake power and steering control.

br2_wdc · 02-09-2018, 07:04 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by waldonew

I'm a new owner of a TM 2720 and a Toyota 4Runner. I'm also new to trailering. I've been all over this Towing Rigs discussion and a couple of 4Runner ones too and have a few questions:

It appears that while there are lots of opinions about whether or not to use a WDH, a common suggestion seems to be try going without it and see how it handles.

What is the correct height?

Anyway, all suggestions welcome. Oh, and I assume the ball size is 2"...yes?

Regarding the 4Runner and WDH, if I determine I'd like to use one, Any thoughts on this?

I'm glad this forum is here, it's a great resource. I'm sure I'll have more questions in the coming months. Thanks!

Hello waldonew and welcome to the TM forum!

Congrats on having a great trailer and excellent SUV. My 2005 Lexus GX470 is essentially a luxury 4Runner, and it has worked well for us with it's V8 engine and 6500 lbs towing capacity.

I have found eTrailer.com to be a good resource in getting more information on towing and the options which apply to your specific tow vehicle.

Below is a link which addresses your questions directly about towing with your 2016 Toyota 4Runner, and recommends a WDH and Brake Controller:

https://www.etrailer.com/question-174741.html

Padgett · 02-09-2018, 08:43 AM

BTW having a factory towing package is a lot better than add-ons from e-trailer since often includes heavy duty cooling system, charging system, and suspension. That said you want at least a Class III (not II) receiver.

ps my '12 6cyl Jeep with the factory package does just fine. I do not use a WDH because it tows very nicely without and I did not want to add any more load to the trailer axle. All loads are inside limits, and rear only drops about 3/4" when hitched. Have a set of air lifts but was never needed.

br2_wdc · 02-09-2018, 08:49 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Padgett

BTW having a factory towing package is a lot better than add-ons from e-trailer since often includes heavy duty cooling system, charging system, and suspension. That said you want at least a Class III (not II) receiver.

Agree 100%; also I thought this was a recent inquiry but the original person who posted hasn't been on the site for over 4 months, so much of this knowledge may be a moot point