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Old 12-03-2012, 01:26 PM   #1
sergedoucette
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Default Shore Power Question

We have a 2004 2720SL that we purchased in August of this year. I just registered and will become a site sponsor shortly. I don't have any experience with forums, so I will be learning as I go. I hope to be able to post this question to begin our learning process.

To have power to the trailer while in the driveway, I ran a separate line from the Breaker box, using a 30 amp breaker and underground #12 wire to a waterproof outlet box with a duplex GFI (20 amp) outlet. All was fine until recently we noticed that the lights were dim and when I checked I found the GFI had tripped. It would not reset, so I ran a power cord from an inside outlet and everything worked fine. I then bought a new 20 amp GFI but when I replaced it, it again tripped. Again, with the power cord from an inside outlet, all worked well. I then plugged the power cord in a GFI kitchen outlet, and it tripped. Went to a standard outlet, and all works well (no tripping of any circuit breakers).
I currently have the power cord attached in order to charge the battery, and will disconnect it once the battery is charged.
Can anyone tell me what may be going on and what I should do to check it out further and repair the problem? We are going on a trip to Key West in January and want to make sure all will be OK.
Thanks, Serge
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Old 12-03-2012, 02:05 PM   #2
Riwright
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A search on GFCI brings up a lot of good data. Start with reading through those. Bill is good with electrical problems.

Also I would take a look at this one:

http://www.trailmanorowners.com/foru...ead.php?t=8101

It's a safety issue, so make sure you get it sorted out.
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Old 12-03-2012, 02:26 PM   #3
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Riwright references an excellent article that Bill wrote. I had the same exact problem as you, and after trouble shooting, I determined that the problem was with the factory-installed window air conditioning unit in my 2720SL. I think they switched to rooftop AC units when your model was made, so that probably isn't the issue with you.

But it is an issue you need to take care of. My issue is described in this thread, with the detailed solution and pictures in post #29.

http://www.trailmanorowners.com/foru...ead.php?t=8067

Dave
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Old 12-03-2012, 02:52 PM   #4
sergedoucette
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Default Makes Sense

Thanks for the information. I had checked the panel by opening the master breaker and still had the problem. Bill's information makes sense, and I guess I will have to go to each appliance and lift the neutral (white) wire to isolate the problem. I guess the drain is not significant as all appears to work well with no GFI in the circuit. At any rate, I will have to isolate and correct the problem. Thanks again for the help and I will post what I find.
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Old 12-03-2012, 03:20 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sergedoucette View Post

To have power to the trailer while in the driveway, I ran a separate line from the Breaker box, using a 30 amp breaker and underground #12 wire to a waterproof outlet box with a duplex GFI (20 amp) outlet.
Thanks, Serge
Howdy, and welcome to the group Serge. I do have a safety concern with the size wire you are using, with a 30 amp breaker. I would change the breaker to a 20 amp if you are just plugging in to keep your battery charged, and such (not using Air Conditioner)......just to be safe. A 30 amp breaker should have a minimum of #10 or even #8 if a longer run is used. How long is your wire run from the breaker to the outlet?

Here is a great pdf file and link (with correct size wiring) that shows how to wire a 30 amp RV outlet. It will show exactly where EACH wire should be connected, to make sure you don't have them wired wrong.

Check out all the useful tabs on the left hand side, including 30 amp Service. It will even show you how to make a pedestal/outlet tester if you don't already have one. These are invaluable for testing campground (or unknown) pedestals before you hook up your trailer to them.

http://www.myrv.us/electric/

http://www.myrv.us/Imgs/PDF/30-amp%20Service.pdf

You would not believe how many people (and professional electricians) that wire up the 120 volt 30 amp outlet as 240 volt and burn up stuff in their trailers......cause they don't have experience with the 30 amp RV plug.

I am a member of another trailer forum, where we read these horror stories monthly.
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Old 12-03-2012, 03:31 PM   #6
sergedoucette
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Default Thanks Bobby

We ran the outside outlet just for lights and to keep the battery charged, so it is a good idea to change the breaker to a 20 amp and I will do so. Again, thanks for all the information. I will continue my troubleshooting tomorrow and hope to isolate the problem soon.
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Old 12-03-2012, 04:04 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sergedoucette View Post
We ran the outside outlet just for lights and to keep the battery charged, so it is a good idea to change the breaker to a 20 amp and I will do so. Again, thanks for all the information. I will continue my troubleshooting tomorrow and hope to isolate the problem soon.
You are very welcome. As we try to fix your tripping problem, I have a few more questions.

If it was just the GFCI tripping in your new outlet, I would say the problem was based there in the new installation somewhere.....but you did say that a GFCI tripped on your house too, when plugged into that outlet.

When you plugged into your kitchen GFCI, did you use any kind of extension cord between the outlet...and the trailers 30 amp cord?

Do you have any solar charging panels installed?

The hot water heater element being burned out, is sometimes the problem. It is very common for these to be burned up by beginners. Have you checked this?

Here is an article by Bill on the water heater. Make sure to read both pages of the document to understand the electrical side of the water heater and how easy you can burn up the electrical heating element.

http://www.trailmanorowners.com/foru...ead.php?t=2457

If I remember correctly (Bill can say for sure and will correct this, so don't take it as gospel) only the water heater power is switched by the trailers breakers. Neutral is not. So the current imbalance can be caused by leakage from the heater neutral to something wired to the Converter/breaker power and cause a gfci to trip.
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Old 12-03-2012, 05:13 PM   #8
sergedoucette
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We do not have any solar panels.
I Ran an extension cord from the trailer plug to the house. No problems on regular outlet, but tripped kitchen GFI.
The Hot water heater was working fine. We shut it off and drained water from tank and heater to winterize. I don't think it got turned on while draining the water, and I just checked and the switch is off.
I downloaded and will read Bill's articles on the water heater. I read "effect of a neutral to ground short on a GFI circuit"
I will begin checking neutral connections tomorrow, and will likely start with the water heater.
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Old 12-03-2012, 05:19 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sergedoucette View Post
To have power to the trailer while in the driveway, I ran a separate line from the Breaker box, using a 30 amp breaker and underground #12 wire to a waterproof outlet box with a duplex GFI (20 amp) outlet. All was fine until recently we noticed that the lights were dim and when I checked I found the GFI had tripped. It would not reset, so I ran a power cord from an inside outlet and everything worked fine. I then bought a new 20 amp GFI but when I replaced it, it again tripped. Again, with the power cord from an inside outlet, all worked well. I then plugged the power cord in a GFI kitchen outlet, and it tripped. Went to a standard outlet, and all works well (no tripping of any circuit breakers).
I currently have the power cord attached in order to charge the battery, and will disconnect it once the battery is charged.
Can anyone tell me what may be going on and what I should do to check it out further and repair the problem? We are going on a trip to Key West in January and want to make sure all will be OK.
Thanks, Serge
Hi Serge,

We had the exact same problem and it turned out to be the Water Heater Element was burned and shorted! Its a long story how and why it happened but its funny to tell! For a quick test, loosen and remove either wire from the element and reset the breaker and it should work fine! Replace element and "DO NOT TURN ON WITHOUT WATER IN THE TANK" LOL!
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Old 12-03-2012, 05:37 PM   #10
sergedoucette
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Default Earl

Thanks for the info and I will check out the heater in the am. We were careful when we winterized, but perhaps we made an error. Will post after I check everything.
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