I don't think the glass fuse actually blew because of an overload. Although the holder is OK at lower current, it is not really adequate at 30 amps. It tends to heat up, which increases the resistance, which makes it heat up more, and finally it gets hot enough to melt the solder that holds it together internally.
A blade fuse and holder is a great answer. A self-resetting circuit breaker is more expensive, but better because it is self-resetting. In my case, I never found that the fuse blew often enough (i.e., never) to justify the cost of a circuit breaker. But other opinions are different, and that's OK. The choice is yours.
As for voltage, any automotive fuse will do the job. The holders come in two or three different physical sizes, and you just need to be sure you get a fuse size that matches the holder. And buy a couple spare fuses - that's the best way to guarantee you won't need one.
Finally, no, you shouldn't put the fuse in the negative line. In household wiring, this is against code because it is dangerous. Because automotive systems operate at lower voltage, there is less danger - but there is no reason to do it. Keep it (and all interrupt devices including fuses and switches) in the positive line.
Bill
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A circuit breaker needs no spare, and also provides a battery load shut-off.
Linear Mode
