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Old 05-18-2021, 10:40 AM   #21
ShrimpBurrito
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To cut stainless steel, you want a bit or saw with a high content of cobalt, so I imagine you'd want the same for a thicker piece of steel such as would be found on a trailer tongue. I have a set of Milwaukee cobalt drill bits, and while not cheap, they cut vastly better than the typical plain steel bits.

You're probably looking for something like this:

Milwaukee Electric Tool 49-56-0173 Ice Hardened Bi-Metal Hole Saw, 3" Die, 8% Cobalt
https://www.amazon.com/Milwaukee-Ele.../dp/B0017WS1CY

...which is advertised for cutting both stainless and cast iron. Note with that particular one, the arbor is sold separately, which you would need if you don't already have one.

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Old 05-22-2021, 01:53 AM   #22
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I just used the normal Milwaukee Hole dozer kit I got on sale at homedepot and put the 1-7/8 in to the 2" and 30 seconds later it was done.
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Old 05-22-2021, 08:03 AM   #23
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The Milwaukee Hole Dozer is what that link I pasted refers to, which has 8% cobalt. Glad to hear it worked well.

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Old 06-03-2021, 10:21 PM   #24
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DH drilled out the bottom hole. Had to find a 1 7/8" guide hole, and then a 2 1/4 main hole drill. We have a Riobi drill and we figured out a way to drill it from the top and it took a while, but it's done, and the jack is on.

Ready to roll! For a souvenir we have the ring that was cut out of the lower part of the tongue jack.
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Old 11-03-2021, 05:03 PM   #25
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Does anyone know if there has since been an after-market leveling jack that will fit a 2003 2720?

I have a Trailer Valet x5 attached to the side of the frame, does anyone know if that would be safe to use as temporary jack while I wait however long to replace the original jack?
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Old 11-03-2021, 05:37 PM   #26
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If I understand, you need to replace the original crank-up / crank-down tongue jack. Manual tongue jacks are pretty much a standard item, and you will find them at any RV supply store - or better, at one of the on-line stores such as etrailer.com, pplmotorhomes.com, dyersonline.com or (of course) amazon.com. As reflected in the posts above, you need to be sure that the one you buy is the same style (side crank vs top crank), has the same size tube, and has the three mounting bolts in the same location.

As for leaving the trailer on a side-mounted temporary jack of any kind, I would lower the front stabilizers to the ground, then crank them down an extra turn or two to take some of the weight off the jack - but more important, to ensure that the whole tongue doesn't move sideways and drop to the ground if (for example) somebody pushes the trailer sideways. Lots of lawsuits happen when a trailer unexpectedly moves and hurts someone.

Hope this helps.

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Old 11-03-2021, 07:39 PM   #27
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If you're going to replace the front jack. Have you considered an electric version? They do cost more, but I feel it was worth the extra money.
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Old 12-09-2022, 05:18 PM   #28
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I have found a great deal of good info on the forum and also at time it seems the info is dated. Looking at the info on Electric Jacks, is a good example of dated info. Every post I read discussed wiring directly yo the battery and being very careful about grounding. I have found this electric jack (Uriah Products UC350010 Electric Trailer Jack (7-Way Connector, 3500 lb. 12V DC) which has a 7 pin connector so their is no wiring necessary. Just unplug the trailer 7 Pin and plug in the Jack and you are good to go. It is $149. Anyone had experience.
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Old 08-21-2023, 02:24 PM   #29
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Default the TM-unique issue of height with electric-powered A-frame jacks.

My old "Atwood MPD-80274" (long discontinued) needs replacement for a couple of reasons.

As discussed above, most "modern" A-frame jacks rated for 2000 lbs or more are being built with 2-1/4" outer tube diameter. The holes can be drilled out larger, with minor issues. (I intend to use a half-decent cobalt blade, with oil to assist the cutting process).

I looked at some '12v' electric models, but the HEIGHT of outer tube and motor (above the standard 3-hole mounting plate) was too much: The top of the motor standing up "too tall" to slide out the front bed, in those TM models which slide the front bed over the propane tanks and batteries.

My older 2619, with vertical propane tanks, may provide more room the front slide than some other models.

My broken Awtood manual jack has about 14" of total height above the mounting plate (the top of the A-frame), the motorized ones seem to need 19" or even more. Ther'es room for a slightly taller jack, but not another 5" of added heighjt above the A-frame rails.
- - -
After some research, I purchased this one https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08PPTKCYJ/. It is rated for 5000 lbs rather than 2000, maybe implying some better construction. The version I bought includes a fixed foot (not a wheel), but the foot does not extend - I'll be using plastic lift block underneath the foot when I need total more extension height.
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Old 08-29-2023, 04:52 PM   #30
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Default My poor experience in grinding out a custom 'swing tongue' to 2-1/4"

In my older TM, the swing hitch A-frame head was custom built an out-of-business dealer, who knew the factory swing hitch of those years to be waeak on d prone to cracking.

But, like other TM owners replacing an older atwood jack, I needed to widen to lower 2" hole the accept the 2-1/4" outer cylinder of a more modern (and stronger) jack.
I bought a 2-1/4" hole saw (a 'Milwaukee' saw new from ebay), but I had some pretty severe issues with it - primarily the fact that I did not have a 2" hole saw (using a compatible arbor) to insert as an inner guide through the existing hole.

I tried using a 2" plastic bottle lid as an "insert", reaching slightly below the teeth of the Milwaukee hole saw - but I had issues with the "insert" spinning off the drill bit arbor and falling the the floor as i worked. The fact that my Milwaukee bit was not uterly perfect in roundess didn't help, that caused more vibration to shake my insert loose.

In the end, with the job only 1/2 done, I switched to a using a rounded file by hand (with oi as lubricant). The cutting was much more precise. to my surprise, I also found the cutting speed to be pretty fast. (About 5 minutes, 10 minutes if I'd done the whole job by hand).

My end result is pretty good, but I wasted considerable time with the drill. I SHOULD HAVE use the file to begin with, or taken the removable "swing hitch" head to a machine shop for alignment in a quality drill press.
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