Generators

Does anyone run a generator? If so, what wattage is it, and is it enough to run everything? I just purchaced a 3100 watt one, and will have to purchase my ac unit accordingly. Of course I'll probably have to shut off the ac to use the microwave, but that's no big deal. The one I got has a Honda engine which is supposed to be the quietest. I wanted one that was small, quiet, and would push the ac unit. This one was all that, and only $600 new! I purchased it from Harbor Freight Tools (1-(800)-444-3353). Just curious about other peoples thoughts on this subject....

We do a lot of "boondocking" where you have to bring EVERYTHING, including the water and electricity.  We've been using a GENERAC 4000EXL generator which will pull the Roof A/c on our 1999 3124King plus tv, etc.  Of course, we run the frig on propane and only use the generator when absolutely necessary.  It is not the quietest thing around and I certainly wouldn't use it in a campground or with close neighbors, but out in the woods, it's fine.  Enjoy your tm, we've loved ours.

[Bill]

The big annoyance (I won't call it a problem) with air conditioners is that it takes a LOT of power to start them. This demand lasts for maybe 5 seconds, but once it is done, the amount of power required to keep the A/C running is much less. Thus if your microwave is running when your A/C tries to start, you might have a problem (popped circuit breaker). But if the A/C is already running when you start the microwave, you may very well be OK. Did that make sense?

The turn-on transient is even worse on units that don't have a delayed-start feature. The problem occurs when the room temperature is about right, and the A/C compressor is cycling on and off to maintain that temperature. When the compressor is running, it builds up pressure in the system. Then when the compressor cycles off, the pressure gradually dissipates.  If the compressor restarts too soon, it has to fight the residual pressure in the system, and that makes the turn-on transient even worse. Moral - look for a delayed start feature - maybe they all have them today, I don't know.

I'll be very interested to know your experience with your 3100-watt generator. I think you will be pleased.

Best regards

Bill

Yes, I'm aware of the initial wattage needed to start an AC unit. Usually this can be up to 2.5 times the normal wattage. But did NOT know about the delayed start feature. That's something I will have to check into. I'm thinking my generator will be able to handle it. In the book that came with it, it said a 1hp air compressor runs about 2,000 watts. I've got one that's 2hp, and it started up, and ran fine off the generator. But definately thanks for the tip on the delayed start feature. I know someone who's been in the appliance business most of his life. He should know exactly what you're talking about. ;D

Our 2720 has a 30amp service.  I think the 3023 is the same.  We use two EU2000i (2000 watt) Hondas in parallel to run the A/C.  The A/C is the stock window unit that came with the TM (I seem to think Fedders?)   After setting this up last fall, the weather was finally warm enough this past weekend to try out the parallel generators.

With the two generators in "economy" mode (a low idle) and in parallel, I fired up the A/C to see what would happen.  Aside from a power drop as the generators spooled up, all went just fine.

The two generators can provide about 32-33amp peak service together, so I think they're pretty nicely matched to our need.  Any more exceeds the breakers in the trailer.  Any less will pop the breakers in the generator.

Without the A/C, one generator by itself will keep our small microwave happy, our second biggest current draw.

One 3100 watt generator (they're usually numbered with peak output) can give you 25.8 amps of service.  Peak.  Not sustained.  The generator's brushes can overheat and fail if you try and sustain that kind of load.  Somewhere, buriied in your owner's manual, probably in a chart in the back, will be a "sustained" power rating.  For example, our EU2000s are rated 1600watts sustained.  That is the number you need to know.   Hope this helps.

Sorry for the long delay in answering your post, was having problems logging on to the site, but am slowly getting back to some of the older questions........Thanks Jon, btw, mine's 2600 regular service. Sounds like I might have bought too small.....yikes! It does make me wonder tho how you run them together.......Call me dumb when it comes to such things, but isn't there only one plug? To run them parallel, do you have some special set up. I do understand that much at least, in series would be like having two batteries in your flashlight instead of one.....parallel keeps the same volts, just increases watts and amps? Lol, I understand DC voltage, but not super up on AC stuff.........Just wondering..........

Happytrails.....

[Bill]

Bill -

The generators have to be specially built for parallel operation. Not many generators are built this way, but the Hondas are a nice example.

Do not EVER try to parallel two generators that were not built for it. You will destroy them both instantly, and they will very probably both get thrown around the room. Literally! You don't want to be in the same room as two flying flaming 200-pound hunks of steel.

Bill

That's good to know. Mine's not an actual Honda generator, but does have a Honda engine in it. How it's set up is beyond me, but my guess it isn't. I chose it because of it's small size. 1.5' tall, 2' wide, and 3' long....not too big where I can pick it up and lug it around, yet pretty powerful for it's size. They had one for 500.00 that was a 4000 watt, but it was twice the size, with a briggs and Stratton engine. I chose mine also for the noise level. Just hope whatever I get it will run ok.  :-/

Happytrails

Yep, the Honda EU's are set up so you can buy an extra cable that connects the two generators together.   This isn't a typical generator feature, it seems unique to the Hondas.   There are three EU generators, 1000, 2000, and 3000 watt.

The EU1000 cables are light weight, and each end plugs into one generator.  For the EU1000's, you can still get by with the 20amp 120v outlets.  But two EU1000's aren't enough to power even the smallest TM with A/C.

For the EU2000 and EU3000 Hondas, you need to buy a special (read expen$ive) cable to handle the 30+ amp service.  My EU2000 parallel cable plugs into each generator, and there's a special Marinco 120v 50amp receptacle attached in the cable.   Note in the earlier post the generator can handle a peak load over 30amp, so the folks at Honda had to go to a 50amp 120v receptagle.   These are uncommon.  Buying the mate to this receptacle turned out to be a bit of a chore, as it's actually a special California receptacle.   I found it on the web but I've lost the bookmark.   The folks at Northwest Power Tools can probably help find one, if that's not actually where I bought it.

I bought a 30amp RV pigtail at the local RV gear store, and wired it to the special male receptacle.   I'm comfortable doing this, and the receptacle wiring is standard, but fiddling with electricity may not be for everyone...

While this setup cost me more than just buying a single larger generator, realize that each of the EU2000's weigh under 50 pounds fueled, while a typical 3500watt generator weighs over 125 pounds.  And I can only use one when that's all I need -- most of the time.  Then I can keep one each at two locations, or have a backup.

I wanted to respond to this thread because I now have 2 of the Honda EU2000I generators (purchased on Web) and run them in parallel mode with s 30 amp outlet box I built from a thread on RV.NET insteal of buying the Honda cables at ~$270. Cost about $35 to built and you simply plug in two 3 prong outlets from the box to the generators (one in each) to achieve correct parallel operation. Runs the roof air like a champ. These gens are somewhat pricey but the benefit is light weight portability and they are so quiet. This is really a nice setup for anyone considering.

Wade