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01-10-2011, 08:10 AM
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#1
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Guest
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RM2333 DC loss thru wiring
Hi All,
This is an old story with a new twist i.e... traveling with refer on DC and not cool inside when getting to camp ground. All readings were taken with no shore power just TM battery.
I have an old Domestic RM2333 and started chasing the DC flow path and recording all the way ( 10AWG ). The first was a 1.66vdc drop from the input line to the lead on the thermocouple which made me pull out and apart the refer until I found a the wiring running from the selector switch position 5b to the thermostat and back to 6b to be ( 16AWG ) and a .46vdc drop.
I have since replaced the 16AWG with 10AWG and improved the loss to just .19vdc which is good.
Next I replaced the 10AWG running to/from the fuse box with 8AWG and now it has a drop of .43vdc from line in to thermocouple. Just in the TM I've gained a +1.23vdc throughput for the refer.
Now for the road test phase or simulated in driveway with a DC power source.
HAHAHAHA I'm having toooooo much fun. HAHAHAHA
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01-10-2011, 08:51 AM
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#2
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TrailManor Master
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Fayetteville, NC
Posts: 621
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Nice work
If you have some extra 8AWG, you might consider replacing that fairly long 10AWG going from the converter (-) DC to the refrigerator.
Tim
__________________
Previous owners of a great 2010 [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC] TM2720SL.
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01-10-2011, 10:14 AM
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#3
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Site Sponsor
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Sunny Beaches of Los Angeles
Posts: 3,246
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Barb&Tim
If you have some extra 8AWG, you might consider replacing that fairly long 10AWG going from the converter (-) DC to the refrigerator.
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I did this, and IIRC, I squeezed out about 0.5v, which is significant.
Dave
__________________
2000 2720SL & 2007 3124KB
2005 Toyota Sequoia
Twin Battle Born 12v 100Ah LiFePO4 (BBGC2) batteries, 300W solar on rear shell, Link 10, Lift kit, Maxxis 8008 225 75/R15 E tires
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01-10-2011, 01:48 PM
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#4
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Guest
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Hi Tim and Dave,
Thanks I did replace 2 lines the +/- coming from the converter/fuse box to the refer and it was fun tracing it through the cabinets. Now it's time for the switch / box install to have an remote shut off for the refer and fan.
Have a great day
Bob
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01-10-2011, 05:56 PM
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#5
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TrailManor Master
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Fayetteville, NC
Posts: 621
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Just for trivia, if you had parallel wired the 8AWG and the 10AWG, you would have ended up with an equivalent 6AWG.
Tim
__________________
Previous owners of a great 2010 [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC] TM2720SL.
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01-10-2011, 06:00 PM
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#6
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Site Sponsor
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Sunny Beaches of Los Angeles
Posts: 3,246
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Barb&Tim
Just for trivia, if you had parallel wired the 8AWG and the 10AWG, you would have ended up with an equivalent 6AWG.
Tim
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Thanks for the info....that's what I did.
Dave
__________________
2000 2720SL & 2007 3124KB
2005 Toyota Sequoia
Twin Battle Born 12v 100Ah LiFePO4 (BBGC2) batteries, 300W solar on rear shell, Link 10, Lift kit, Maxxis 8008 225 75/R15 E tires
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01-10-2011, 06:25 PM
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#7
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TrailManor Master
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Big Bend area, Florida
Posts: 2,120
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ShrimpBurrito
Thanks for the info....that's what I did.
Dave
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Tim and Dave,
That is exactly my plan also, just parallel the 10 with 8 gauge that came in on saturday. My set up will be a little different as we keep a deep cycle in the TV to swap with the one in the TM as needed or run a trolling motor on the boat. I plan on running the 8 gauge in parallel with my current feed to the back up deep cycle and then from there to the TM. I'll use the battery isolator to separate the TV cranking battery from the deep cycles.
ken
__________________
Axis 24.1 E 450 chassis, 6 spd tranny. GVWR 14500# GVCWR 22000 # GW(scales) 12400 #
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
mods: 2- 100 watt solar panels, on roof, 300 watts portable
“They who would give up essential Liberty, to purchase a little temporary Safety, deserve neither Liberty nor Safety.” Benjamin Franklin
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