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Old 04-29-2021, 09:52 AM   #31
jjplumley
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Originally Posted by ShrimpBurrito View Post
And of course, you always have the option of just skipping the awning altogether. If you mostly park in the shade like we do, you may find you just don’t use it much, and even if you do find you need it, you could always take an EZ Up of some sort. Might be easier.

Dave
I agree. I'm hesitant to use that awning though due to it's replacement cost. Tried to adhere to the advice of "if you're not using it, put it up" so that the weather (wind OR rain) wouldn't destroy or damage it during our inaugural trip.

However, that being our first real travel trailer, my wife LOVES it. Whether it had an awning or not was the first question she asked when I told her I bought it. Thankfully, she's also seen the issues it causes (clearance, replacement cost, etc) so we're both on the same page at least.

I'm thinking we'll use it for now, but if/when it gets damaged or destroyed, I don't see us replacing it.
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Old 04-29-2021, 10:06 AM   #32
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Maybe a machine shop could come up with some sort of quick connect brackets so you could take the awning off when it goes in the garage (and possibly while travelling, too, depending on the design)?
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Old 04-29-2021, 10:37 AM   #33
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Yet another option is to remove the Fiamma awning and it's mounting brackets, and put it away for whenever you might decide to sell the TM. Then, replace those brackets with something like some Keder rail (which are low profile), through which some new awning material, folded or rolled up and stored in your TM, will slide through. Then just put up 2 poles on the other side of the material, and stake it down. Wouldn't take too much longer to put up, and solves the awning problem.

Sounds like someone here did, and he actually reports it can withstand storms, unlike the Fiamma awning:
https://www.fiberglassrv.com/forums/...ita-85703.html

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Old 04-29-2021, 11:43 AM   #34
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Originally Posted by jjplumley View Post
Thanks for the suggestion.

We did talk of adding a structural beam across both doors, which would allow a large single door. However, there's not enough clearance between the top of the doors and the attic joists.
I realize your decision is made, and it will work nicely. However, just to be complete, I was not suggesting replacing the header beams. Rather, I was suggesting a way to keep them, while narrowing the area between the doors.
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This would also make it a 17' door, which would have to be special ordered and pricey (and 10 weeks delivery time).
Agreed that it would be expensive. Is it worth it? Depends on how often you plan to get the TM in and out of the garage, and how much work you are willing to do each time - and how much cost and work will go into modifying the TM.

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Old 10-23-2021, 08:49 PM   #35
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Default Maybe front receiver hitch added to tow vehicle?

If you have a truck that is itching for some upgrades, now you may have an excuse for adding a front receiver hitch to assist in backing (er, pushing) in the trailmanor. Additional visual aides can be added to the driveway, tastefully done to please the HOA, lined up with lasers (or old school string) to be the guide for where the wheels need to be well before entering the garage. This also includes where the front hitch needs to be in order to have a straight shot with little need for adjustment.
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Old 10-24-2021, 03:18 PM   #36
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If you have a truck that is itching for some upgrades, now you may have an excuse for adding a front receiver hitch to assist in backing (er, pushing) in the trailmanor. ....

Yep - in addition to getting the TM in the garage, a front hitch would also allow us to carry a bike rack in front when towing the TM. I actually ordered one, but Amazon lost it and told me to wait a week to see if it arrives. It never did and by then, they raised the price $40 and it was backordered, so I lost interest. I'd lose my front tag and camera as well with a front hitch, and it's a 3-4 hour job on my F-250.

As an update, we've been on a couple trips since this thread was started, and I got it in & out of the garage successfully, each time removing the awning and garage door side trim. But, with an inch-and-a-half of clearance on each side, it was only a matter of time before something got dinged. Last trip, an awning bracket got damaged due to a weary driver (me) losing patience after 10 minutes of failed attempts to get it lined up perfectly, and I rushed a bit. (I can back a trailer pretty dang well, the issue is that since the hitch (the pivot) is behind the rear axle, the front of the trailer moves right, temporarily, when backing left, left, and vice-versa. Therefore, the entire rig has to be backed perfectly straight as the TM passes through the opening. Doable, but frustrating, especially in the rain).

We had a manual trailer dolly, but with the slope of our driveway, it's impossible to use (and was overloaded). Also, was dangerous (no brakes!).

Since the mishap, I bought a used ParkIt 360 B3, the big 10,000 lb capacity version with trailer brake controller ($3400 new!) which should solve our problems, but I have yet to try it out.

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Old 10-26-2021, 10:13 AM   #37
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I am going to suggest both Dicor self leveling and 4200, each in its place. I use both and each is a great product with many uses. Apply 4200 on the flange of the vent fan before sticking it to the roof. This creates a seal between the roof and the fan. The Dicor then goes over the seam on the vent and will level out over the seam, screws, bumps and gaps. The two together make a great, long lasting, weather proof, seal that looks neat.
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