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Old 01-30-2017, 11:41 AM   #1
nwhouston
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Default Parts crisis

Hopefully someone has seen my issue before. We have a 2007 3124KS. I need a bearing and brake job, so I ordered from ETrailer using parts listed in this same forum. I got the wrong hubs the first time (5 stud vs 6 stud) but brakes seemed right. So I ordered a 6 stud hub and bearing pair.

Today I got the tires off and found my hubs and brakes are much larger. Has anyone found this, and if so, do you know what parts you ordered? I am talking to TM factory parts (Jim) but they don't seem to have an answer.

I appreciate any leads. Larry
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Old 01-30-2017, 12:00 PM   #2
Scott_n_Gail
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Larry, I recently had the brakes off of our 2008 3124KS. On the outside of the drum it was stamped with something like 'max size 12.25'. Your brakes should be Dexter 12x2 I believe. This means that you have 12 inch drums and the shoes should be 2 inches wide.
When I get home this evening, I'll check my Dexter book and see if it has the part numbers listed.
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Old 01-30-2017, 12:14 PM   #3
nwhouston
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Default Brakes and hubs

Thank you. I just got off the phone with Denise at Dexter. She plowed through every number we could find on hubs, bearings and brakes to determine I have a Dexter 5200 lb axle. So she is sending me all part numbers. If you find any references I would appreciate hearing. This proves to me I should have pulled wheel first before ever starting down this path. But no worries. I have good new parts for anyone with the smaller 10" hubs and brakes. Just let me know. Larry
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Old 01-30-2017, 03:00 PM   #4
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Agree, when I gave Dexter my axle tag number they sent me a complete breakdown of how it was built.
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Old 01-30-2017, 03:39 PM   #5
nwhouston
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Default Dexter help on axle

Denise at Dexter has been great today. I have a 5200 lb axle. The axle number itself was painted over so that route was not available. But Denise was able to sus out my configuration as I read part numbers off hubs, bearings and brakes that I had already removed. So I have again gone to E Trailer for parts as Dexter, and its local Houston distributor, are well past my price point.

I have new 5 stud and 6 stud 10" drums with seals if anyone is near Houston. And I have a new set of nev-r-adjust brakes for some axle.

Quite a learning curve for me. At the end of the day I should have pulled a tire off and measured my drum. Then the Dexter table would have had me close, though not quite there as there are different bearing options.

Thanks for the help. Great to have real time support.

Larry
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Old 01-30-2017, 06:33 PM   #6
nwhouston
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Default Dexter help on 5200 lb axle

Before you read this somewhat lengthy post, please note that this is about TM's with the 5200 lb Dexter axle. That means you have ca. 12" hubs. Many TM's apparently have 10" hubs on a 3500 lb axle.

I am going to post a pdf file with this post from Denise at Dexter Axle that provides some details on the hub / bearing assembly as well as some brake options for our 2007 3124KS trailer. The quote was a courtesy to me as Denise quite honestly said that buying the parts is better done elsewhere from a price standpoint. Her email is [email protected].

The key learning for me in this saga is to get to a part on which you can read the number (still), then get with Dexter and be sure you have a complete hub / bearing / brake package (I had to get the hub, both bearings, and the brakes to get the right config) . As I have said already in this string, I am the embarrassed owner of three hub / bearing sets, two of which are for the 3500 lb axles, and two nev-r-adjust brake sets, one for the 3500 lb axle and one for the 5200 lb axle.

I talked to Jim at TM today as well in my search for parts. While quite pleasant, he admitted that they buy a complete axle, hub and brake assembly from Dexter, so they don't get into the individual parts. And apparently they don't keep a record of what VIN trailer had what axle.

Hopefully by Friday I will get my third parts order and get my shiny new parts onto the TM.

I can say that as I pulled the hubs off I did find that the inner grease seal had completely popped out of the race on one hub, so there was grease on the brake assembly. That was likely the smoke seen by the nice person that told us at 65 mph that our tire was on fire. The other side was fine. No indication of when or why the seal popped out, but it was truly loose on the axle.

The shoes still had some life, though I am no judge. Definitely cracked and covered in dust.

The magnets were badly worn. On one side the bolt that holds the magnet to its seat had become exposed by rubbing on the inner drum, and was scoring the inner face of the drum. I took the drums to see if they could be turned and ground smooth, but the one shop said that these 12" drums are too small for their lathes. The drums themselves were not badly worn, just the inner faces where the magnet tries to grip.

The bearings look fine as do the races. No pits, dents or dings. I am replacing them since the hubs and races will be new, and all the advice I have seen says "new races need new bearings". All grease appeared to be fine; no grit, no blackening. However, on the side where the grease seal popped out, there were literally small chunks of wood. Hello.

Spindles look good, though one side has some mildly chewed threads (first two courses) which slows the castle nut but does not keep it from seating. All of the EZ lube (zerk on one end, the small hole at the inner seal) look clean. For what it is worth, Dexter did reinforce the message that I think someone else recently posted, to the effect that EZ lube was developed for marine application trailers (read boat trailers), and they strongly encourage hand inspection and hand re packing the bearings. Now that I have had the joy of pulling the whole assembly, I can say it is doable.

Happy to provide more forensics on both my parts saga and replacement job if anyone is interested. Larry

memo: separately I am replacing the 43 month old tires (12k miles) The Car Show installed when we bought this trailer as one has developed a deformation on the side near the tread. Tires are labeled 'Tow Master'; no other markings I can find.
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File Type: pdf Dexter 5200 lb axles hubs and brakes.pdf (301.7 KB, 26 views)
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2011 Silverado 1500 5.3L 6 speed auto
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Old 01-31-2017, 08:25 PM   #7
nwhouston
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Default Pictures of various hubs and brakes

I am attaching a couple of pictures that show the two hub sizes (10" vs 12") and then the corresponding brake sizes. The bearings are also very notably different. However, my new bearings for the smaller hubs are already installed in the races so I don't have access for a comparison picture. Hope these provide a frame of reference for the difference between the two axles. Larry
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Old 02-01-2017, 05:42 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nwhouston View Post
<snip> The bearings look fine as do the races. No pits, dents or dings. I am replacing them since the hubs and races will be new, and all the advice I have seen says "new races need new bearings". All grease appeared to be fine; no grit, no blackening. However, on the side where the grease seal popped out, there were literally small chunks of wood.
Umm, what am I missing here? Wood?

Bill
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Old 02-02-2017, 08:52 AM   #9
nwhouston
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Default Wood in the inner bearing

Only theory I have is that the inner seal, since it was essentially fully pulled out when I pulled the hub, allowed some road debris to get up into the inner race area. Other than that path I am no clue.
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+electric hitch
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2011 Silverado 1500 5.3L 6 speed auto
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Old 02-04-2017, 03:33 PM   #10
nwhouston
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Default Time to adjust the new self adjust brakes

I have the new self-adjust brakes (mine are by ETrailer but exactly the same build as the Dexter Nev-R-Adjust), new hubs and bearings, new tires all in place and the TM is on the hitch. The ETrailer advisor (Bill - the brake trainer) said just start off on a safe clear stretch, using the manual lever on the Prodigy to apply power to the trailer brakes (and no truck brakes). After several times the new brakes would adjust to the right gearing.

I did all of the above, and frankly have no feel for what 'done' should be like relative to the trailer brakes stopping the whole lash up. My truck does weigh over 5000 lbs, and the engine is applying power to the transmission, so I don't think it is reasonable that the trailer brakes alone would rapidly stop the entire 9000+ lb load. I definitely can tell the brakes are engaging, they seem to both being working (can actually hear them with the windows down), and from say 10 mph the trailer brakes will stop the whole load in maybe 60 feet.

Some websites say to just hit the truck brakes several times going about 25 mph, and that will adjust them. Another says to set the Prodigy power till the trailer brakes literally lock up, then back off on the power. This last one is obviously setting an understandable pass mark on when the brakes are 'set', but Dexter, ETrailer, and most sites don't actually go that far.

For reference, I have the power on the P3 set to 6, which is the recommended starting point. But since I don't know what I don't know about how new brakes should respond on stopping the whole load, I thought I better ask. I appreciate any guidance from those who have been down this path.

Larry, Houston
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