Anode rod almost gone - Page 2

JohnMD · 03-19-2022, 11:41 AM

Update: With neighbor's help, we had success. Between a larger socket wrench with more leverage, and spraying with "Fabulous Blaster," we got the anode rod out!

**commodor47** · 03-19-2022, 11:43 AM

John,

Try spraying the exposed threaded area with a good penetrating oil. then use the rounded end of a small ballpeen hammer to gently tap the end of the anode rode. The gentle tapping will help move the penetrating oil into the hidden threads. Let the oil set up for several hours, preferably overnight. You may have to repeat the process several times before the threads loosen up. You might also try tightening the rod a bit then try loosening as this will sometimes free up the threads.

Dick

JohnMD · 03-19-2022, 12:12 PM

Dick,

It looks like you were typing your response at the same time I was typing my update. Thanks for the feedback. It's a beautiful afternoon in MD and a great day to be working on the TM!

John

**commodor47** · 03-19-2022, 03:26 PM

John,

Thanks for the update - it is always nice to hear an issue has been successfully resolved.

Dick

**Deb Mac** · 09-10-2023, 11:13 AM

I am going to attempt to pull my anode rod this afternoon. A new to me '08 this year. I'm pretty sure that based on a lot of other little maintenance items that I discovered not performed by the PO, that it is probably the original and in sorry shape.

Another thing that is leading me to believe that it likely needs to come out is the fact that when I flush my toilet, with no water on (to get some pink stuff into the bottom of my Poor man's Sealand to keep the black tank from drying out, or to check the level in the tank) there is grit that comes out the water outlet. I thought maybe I had dirt in my fresh tank. But it was only in the toilet. Brand new toilet. Was driving me crazy until I thought more about the plumbing in the TM.

The water flow goes from the fresh tank and then out to both the cold and hot (via the water heater). But if there is no pressure in the cold lines after I have opened the flush valve with no water pump on, and I haven't drained the water heater yet, what I'm getting is back flow from the BOTTOM of the water heater due to hydrostatic pressure. So I'm pretty sure there is a significant amount of sediment in the bottom of that heater tank and that is the source of the grit into the toilet.

Fortunately I already have a 1-1/16" socket from a previous application, a small ball peen hammer for some "tap-tap"ing, and a breaker bar, and some PB Blaster (if I need it). The nut on the end of the rod looks pretty corroded so the whole thing may crumble when I try to remove it. Or it could be cemented in there so badly I may need to drill it out.

Going to take pictures for posterity.

**Deb Mac** · 09-10-2023, 01:02 PM

Went much better than I expected. Based on the amount of rust on the nut, I pre-emptively gave it a couple of squirts with PB Blaster and a few gentle taps on the head. Let it sit while I ran the pink stuff through the pump and toilet, and drained the water heater.

Couldn't find the 1-1/16 socket (think I loaned it to my neighbour) so I tried my 1-1/8 (a bit big but I thought I would try a gentle torque). Came off very nicely. Some yellow teflon tape on there and judging by the ease at which it came off, I would say it has been out before. Might still be the original rod, but hasn't been sitting there for 15 years, which was my fear.

Not much of it left! Lots of goo and grit came with it. New anode and a rinsing wand are coming, so next week I'll clean the threads (looks like some of the original thread seal is still in there - Rectorseal? - or just hardened sediment), flush the inside and put it all back together.

**rickst29** · 09-11-2023, 11:18 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Deb Mac

... New anode and a rinsing wand are coming, so next week I'll clean the threads (looks like some of the original thread seal is still in there - Rectorseal? - or just hardened sediment), flush the inside and put it all back together.

I'd try and reach back to those 'inner' threads with a cheap steak knife, sacrificed for this purpose with by bending the the blade end to angle at 90% from the rest of the blade. Gently clean off the remaining "stuff" to leave the threads clean, But don't press too hard (creating cuts, scratches, or distortion in the threads themselves).

I have used only 3-4 turns of teflon tape in my own anode rod changes, rather than creating possible issues with hardening pastes. That worked well.

**Bill** · 03-19-2022, 03:42 PM

One added thought. Dick's suggestion to use penetrating oil and tapping and time, rather than using brute force right up front, is the right way to do it. Then, once you get the (oily) threads loosened, try VERY HARD not to get oil into the interior of the tank. Clean off the inside thread in the tank plug and the outside thread on the anode rod right away, and do NOT run the anode rod back in before cleaning. If oil drips or seeps inside, it is hard to get the taste out of your drinking water.

Bill

Wavery · 03-21-2022, 09:38 AM

Using brute force on that plug can have drastic consequences.

I have found "PB Blaster" to be a very effective penetrating oil. Tapping is certainly a good idea. Instead of using a hand wrench, I have used an impact wrench with great success over the years. It exserts more force with less likelihood of damage. It also helps break up the small bits of corrosion and crystalized hard water deposits that are wedged between the threads.

**ShrimpBurrito** · 03-21-2022, 12:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Wavery

Using brute force on that plug can have drastic consequences.

I can confirm this. I've reported this before, but within the last 2 or so years, I broke the head off my anode rod in the attempt to remove it. It wasn't pretty. I had to drill it out, a very slow process, and then re-tap the hole. Don't want to ever have to do that again....

Dave