Portable solar kit

Could someone recommend a solar power kit for our 2004 2720 sl? There are so many out there! How many watts? Also can adding a second battery help with dry camping? And last question for now is... if we don't go the solar route, how can we charge up the battery? With the tv? How long does that take. Newbies here. still learning.

[Redtail Cruiser]

Madiizzy, do you have budget in mind ?

A BUDGET! But of course. Retirees here. would like to keep it under $500 but less is always better. Is that possible? I am an Amazon shopper. I saw quite a few there but not sure if they would work with our camper. Thanks for any help.

[LoveToCamp]

First, determine if you want monocrystalline, or polycrystalline panels. Mono cost more, but are more efficient.

I can't recommend portable kits, as I only have a single 100w panel mounted on my roof. It recharges my batteries daily, even with canopy (camping in the Rocky Mountains, which is different than the tree canopy of the east).

I camped three years with only one battery and one panel. We went 7 nights several times with no shortage of power. But, I installed LED bulbs, and we didn't waste power.

I now have a second battery, unintentionally. Should never be short of power. If you don't have a way to re-charge (I see many discourage using TV to recharge, as it is very inefficient), two batteries will likely die within 10 days.

You should be able to get a portable kit for much less than $500, with at least 120w of output. That should keep you powered as long as you want, unless you are always in heavy shade.

I like my mounted panel, as I don't worry about it walking off. Nor do I have to aim it several times a day. It depends on where you camp, if a mounted panel will work well for you. I love having solar, as I don't worry about state of charge.

Thank you LovetoCamp. Good info. I will look for a 120w portable or roof mounted. I like the idea of being able to park our trailer in the shade but charge in the sun. That is why I prefer portable. My husband agrees with you. As far as changing bulbs to led. Is that just actually switching out all the bulbs in trailer? Or do we need to install special lights that will accept LED? Maybe a dumb question but we are new to all of this.

[Bill]

LED bulbs are wonderful, but tend to be expensive. You don't have to switch out all of them, of course. Just switch out as many as you choose (maybe half?), and keep track of the ones you switched so you use only those.

Open up each candidate fixture, remove the bulb, and read the bulb type. Then order LED replacements for that type. They should be an easy direct replacement.

Bill

[Padgett]

You are on the right track but first you need to make a list of what you need to be able to do and for how long ?

I agree that changing out the bulbs for leds is a good idea but would just start with the interior lights and not the fluorescents.

I bought four of these for the patio lights and ten of these for the interior lights.

After my last trip which did not go well, I replaced a failing grp 29 with two GC2 batteries and added two 100W monocrystaline panels from Renogy which fit nicely on the rear module over the bed (three would have fit but I had two). For now a PWM controller seems adequate.

This is still a work in progress but seems to suit my 2720SL nicely with batteries, controller, DC circuit breakers and generator all fitting in the rear storage compartment.

I also carry a generator for the AC (Florida) and have been working to find a configuration that will start reliably on a 2000W (peak) Honda. My results to now have been promising but mixed.

Having a generator also means you can suppliment the solar with about an hour of generator to recharge the batteries.

[rickst29]

Then I recommend 2*100 Watt panels on the roof. For the lowest possible price, you probably can't beat this 'WindyCity' Kit:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/COMPLETE-KIT...d/251419849809
But it is polycrystalline, which requires slightly more size and weight to achieve the same rating as equivalent mono panels.

Among TM owners, WindyCity and Renogy seem to be the most popular EBay sellers. If you buy a Renogy kit, be sure to get the upgraded controller (their cheapest controller runs positive-ground ONLY, while RVs, cars, and boats are almost universally built negative-ground.) Although I'm recommending a WIndyCity kit, I personally bought Renogy, and it's been great. Outside of EBay, Arizona Wind and Sun has a great product lineup, equally good prices, and also a superb set of informational web pages. They've also got a good forum.

If you stay with only a single battery, calculate your AH requires carefully to make sure that you can stay above 50% charge while enjoying your outing. If you can do that, then a single panel in the 120-130W range is probably sufficient.

[Padgett]

BTW Renogy also is available on Amazon but I bought direct. 10% off sales with free shipping are fairly common.

Also they seem to have a different controller now with a display instead of lights. PWM controllers are in the $30-$40 range.

Might mention that to mount on the rear module (shade over the bedroom), 48" long is a max.

ps the self tapping screws in the Renogy starter kit are about 1/4" too long (don't ask). Are several threads on better ways to mount but something in the Florida air seems to eat tape in a few years.

ps: if you really want something portable, see here.

[tentcamper]

Charging battery with TV: I find that if I use good jumper cables directly from The TV battery to the camper battery it takes about 45 minutes to get it back up to about 85 - 90%. You need to run the TV so the alternator is running.

First I would change all the lights bulbs to LED's we did it for around $5 per bulb. Second I would do some dry camping and figure out what your power needs are. Monitor your battery voltage. Bring some jumper cables as you are learning. There is no one answer for the number of batteries/solar panel size that is right for all.

We conserve our battery. Without solar; We can camp with one large group 31 battery for 6+ days and have gone as long as 9 days. In the heating season we get 2+ nights.

We have a 80W Portable solar kit to extend our cold weather camping nights before we need to re-charge. I think that 80W is the minimum I would get for a trailer. I got the 80W because it would fit in a large 24" pizza delivery bag and the size makes it easy to stowaway. The 100W was to large for the bag. My 80W is actually 2-40W panels. Have not fully tested it in heating season, but it looks like it will take me to 4+ nights for average solar day in my area. If all days are sunny, I will never need to re-charge.

Rule of thumb is 100W of solar panel per each 100 AH of battery.