Norcold control switch

Casey Freswick · 07-13-2020, 10:35 PM

My norcold control switch is stuck on 120 or battery. Will not turn to propane or off. I was attempting to fix the connection problem. It seems I have had to do this about every other time I use propane. But now the control switch is just plain stuck. Any suggestion apart from getting a new control switch?

**Bill** · 07-14-2020, 06:41 AM

Do you mean it is mechanically stuck, and won't move? Or do you mean it will move, but doesn't change the function? I think the switch has a knob- is it tight on the shaft?

Bill

Casey Freswick · 07-14-2020, 09:02 AM

It is mechanically stuck.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bill

Do you mean it is mechanically stuck, and won't move? Or do you mean it will move, but doesn't change the function? I think the switch has a knob- is it tight on the shaft?

Bill

**Bill** · 07-14-2020, 10:37 AM

A cheap and easy first step would be a shot of aerosol contact cleaner into all the moving parts, starting from the shaft where it goes in through the front panel (take off the knob), then moving to the shaft where it comes out of the panel in back, and then into all the switch components. The contact cleaner will dissolve (or at least dislodge) any crud, and then leave a light coat of lubrication on everything.

I specifically would not recommend WD-40, despite its mythical mystical list of 1000 uses.

A switch is usually mechanically stuck because something is deformed or broken inside, so I'm not optimistic that this solution will permanently resolve your issue. But as I say, it is cheap and easy.

Bill

**commodor47** · 07-15-2020, 05:05 AM

Casey,

I have removed and opened up the selector switch as part of a troubleshooting process in 2016. At that time I noted some discoloration which appeared to be caused by arcing on one of the contact sets. I cleaned up the contacts and observed how the different contacts were activated as the selector switch was turned. Off hand I can't remember how the different switches were activated. It might be cam operated.

Make sure you are disconnected from shore power, house battery, and propane tank valves are closed before continuing. To access and remove the switch you will need to pull the refrigerator out far enough and disconnect the wires attached on the back of the switch. There is a small piece of molding on the floor at the base of the refrigerator that will need to be removed before you can pull it forward. Keep an eye on the propane line in the back of the refrigerator (near the base) as the unit is pulled forward to avoid any kinks. You may have to disconnect the propane line feeding into the shut off valve if kinking becomes an issue.

Be sure to take photos or make a diagram of how the wires are attached to the back of the switch.

Once you have removed the switch, open it up and inspect all moving parts and contacts. At that point you will be able to determine if a replacement is necessary.

Dick