Air Conditioner Models and Generators

[Padgett]

Been running tests with my AC and both a 2000W (peak) generator and a 2800W (peak).

My '06 TM came with a Coleman 9203C series AC. The issue has been starting the AC compressor reliably.
Fan takes about 10A to start/3A run
Compressor takes about 33A to start and 9A to run
Compreaaor LRA 58.4

By introducing a time delay on the fan I was able to have the compressor to start reliably with both generators, even with the Honda EU2000i in ECON mode.

Neither started reliably on thermocouple switch action. No idea why. Yet.

Have found that Coleman makes two other AC units, the 11,000 btu 8632 series with 44 LRA and the 13,500 btu 8633 series with 48.3 LRA.

I would suggest that anyone needing AC while dry camping and less than 3,000W peak generator power consider one of the two latter if needing a new AC.

Tests were at sea level and 88-90F temperatures. Hgher elevation/temperature may need more power.

[OregonTrail]

Originally Posted by Padgett

Been running tests with my AC and both a 2000W (peak) generator and a 2800W (peak).

My '06 TM came with a Coleman 9203C series AC. The issue has been starting the AC compressor reliably.
Fan takes about 10A to start/3A run
Compressor takes about 33A to start and 9A to run
Compreaaor LRA 58.4

By introducing a time delay on the fan I was able to have the compressor to start reliably with both generators, even with the Honda EU2000i in ECON mode.

Neither started reliably on thermocouple switch action. No idea why. Yet.

Have found that Coleman makes two other AC units, the 11,000 btu 8632 series with 44 LRA and the 13,500 btu 8633 series with 48.3 LRA.

I would suggest that anyone needing AC while dry camping and less than 3,000W peak generator power consider one of the two latter if needing a new AC.

Tests were at sea level and 88-90F temperatures. Hgher elevation/temperature may need more power.

My family has been following your AC/generator saga closely because we also purchased the same HF Predator portable generator and we have the same model AC. We are hoping to be able to use the generator for several trips in July and August. Our goal is to just be able to cool off a little in the hottest part of the afternoon after some outdoor activities.

Last weekend, we installed the SPP6 hard start capacitor according to instructions and tucked it in next to the run capacitor. We are currently running the generator through the required break in hours. When that is done, we'll give it a go. We live close to sea level and usually use our TM at lower elevations so we thought we might have a shot at success. The generator was reasonably priced and useful for other things and we felt it was worth a try.

Hope this eventually works out for all of us!

[Padgett]

I have heard that changing to 10w-30 Mobil 1 will help after the breakin. Have about 10 hours on my replacement. 1st one failed but I had purchased the service contract & HF just replaced it with a new one.

Did your have a start capacitor (small black). If so did the SPP6 replace it or are both in parallel ?

[OregonTrail]

Originally Posted by Padgett

I have heard that changing to 10w-30 Mobil 1 will help after the breakin. Have about 10 hours on my replacement. 1st one failed but I had purchased the service contract & HF just replaced it with a new one.

Did your have a start capacitor (small black). If so did the SPP6 replace it or are both in parallel ?

Since heat is the enemy of these little engines, we decided to drain the oil that came in the generator and replace it with synthetic right away. We are about 10 hours into our break in, as well. So far, it starts with one pull and runs great.

We did have a start capacitor in our AC. After searching the internet for answers, we concluded that the start capacitor should be left in place and the SPP6 should be installed to the run capacitor and in parallel with the start capacitor. This is apparently what Supco recommends.

http://www.loveyourrv.com/installing...r-conditioner/

From the comments section of this article:

"I was 'one the phone' with a Supco rep last week for about 10 minutes and during that conversation I asked him *IF* one was supposed to disable the original start cap and install the SPP6 in its place OR install the SPP6 'in parallel', and his response was to INSTALL IT IN PARALLEL.....

In response to my questions, I was told that, in addition to 'leave the stock start cap in place', that (a) the SPP6 ***WAS*** 'THE' best cap to use (NOT the SPP6E; though many people do) and (b) that 'polarity' (defined here as which wire one connects to 'red', etc. did not matter (SEEMS to make sense to me).He went on to say that 'they' (at Supco) were quite surprised at the surging interest by RVers in 'start caps' to enable them to (hopefully) have more success at firing up A/C units without having to have 'Big Generator' capabilities."


We are not experts and we are not trying to come up with some ingenious new fix. We just hope this simple mod will make it possible to use this generator. Like you, we will not carry dual units or a generator that weighs any more or costs any more than this one does.

[tentcamper]

Try turning off the DC converter circuit breaker when you start the AC. I had a camper that in the drive the AC would sometimes trip the 20 amp breaker for the garage service if the battery was charging. It never trip if I turned off the breaker to the DC converter. I think it depended on the charging load. You will still have lights powered from the battery. They may dim a little when the the power to the DC converter is switched off.

If this solves the issue. Maybe a relay or some relay logic for the DC converter 120V AC feed wire. You could control it by your delay circuit or the 120V output from the stat?? Maybe you could get real slick with the relay logic design and only turn off the DC converter during the fan delay??

[OregonTrail]

Thanks very much! We will add turning off the DC converter to our bag of tricks.

[Padgett]

There is a junction box under the trailer where the solid core Romex connects to the stranded used for the leing of the cable on the arm. I added a switch & outlet and a male-male jumper using #10 wire from the alternator directly to the AC and with the coach system switched out.

I have not seen much difference possibly because the solar is keeping the GC2s at full charge.

So know I have the 3 second delay on the fan, SPP6, and a direct connection from the AC to the generator (no converter). The only thing left is to add a replacement for the failed start cap.

However the AC is starting reliably from both gens on the switch (Honda on ECON even) but neither is working on the thermostat. I need to figure out why since need to cycle when sleeping but feel I am very close.

[OregonTrail]

Yes. You surely must be close.

Since our needs are different from yours, if need be, we will probably try just setting the thermostat to max cool and select low speed. When the temps are really hot, it may just run rather than try to cycle on and off. If it comes to that, it would probably be easier on the AC compressor and harder on the generator. But at least the generator is the cheapest and easiest to replace. We'll see.

[tentcamper]

Is there two start cap for both the fan and compressor? Which one failed?

[Padgett]

Mine has three caps: 7.5uf for the fan, 40 uf compressor run, and 88-108uf with PCTR for a compressor start.

Right now the start cap that failed has been replaced with a SPP6 (144 uf). I have asked Supco about using two SPP6s instead of replacing the original since I have another.