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Old 10-31-2014, 07:40 AM   #11
funpilot
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From what I have read, this calculator is the one that is accurate. Just make sure to put in real data. If you have questions on how to use it, PM me. The info here is very close to what insurance companies use to deny claims when they are saying you were beyond specs for your TV.

http://changingears.com/rv-sec-calc-...eight-tt.shtml
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Old 10-31-2014, 08:43 AM   #12
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Mountains is always interesting. I started towing a 31' TT in the late 80's with a full size van and a V8. It would drag down with those V8's. Today some V6's have more HP then those V8's with some of today's V8 being almost 2X the HP.

Going down hills it still about the same with the down shifting and engine braking based on CI displacement. Going up you now can zip up with the new V8's. I'm okay with a little slowdown, but that is what I use to. But when I get the 10+% grades it sure would be nice to have a huge HP power plant.
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Old 10-31-2014, 08:47 AM   #13
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If it was me I would be looking at the 2922 for a highlander.
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Old 10-31-2014, 09:24 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tentcamper View Post
If it was me I would be looking at the 2922 for a highlander.
In regards to the 2922, I would send a private message to Markopolo. He has a 2922 and had some sway issues with it. He resolved the problem with a new WDH with sway control, but he tows with a F150, so a Highlander might pose a different set of problems.
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Old 10-31-2014, 12:16 PM   #15
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In my mind, it is the unexpected that needs to determine the size. Emergency maneuvers require a greater difference from maximum load and actual weight. Your life may depend on it.
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Old 10-31-2014, 12:44 PM   #16
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the SAE standard assumes you are starting with:
· both a driver and passenger in the vehicle, each weighing 150 pounds;
· that tow vehicles also has 70 pounds of aftermarket hitch equipment

I also thought I read a few years ago that is also assumed wet curb weight with full fuel tanks. But I could not find that.

This could be as much difference as 600 lbs compared to some manufactures starting with a dry curb weight with no fuel, passengers or hitch.
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Old 10-31-2014, 03:43 PM   #17
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I will chime in here:
1) Sounds like the tow vehicle is already decided. My take is it is MUCH better to be on the I have more that enough power and tow rating than close to the limit. I've been there before with my GMC Envoy which was rated at 5000 lb towing capacity. It worked, but it really stressed the engine and drive train, especially going up hill. Which seems 90% of the time. Coolant temperature would go way up, I would have to turn off the A/C and could not go anywhere near the speed limit. With the F-150 ecoboost, I see no change in coolant or transmission temperature, even with long, steep up hill pulls, and maintaining speed is easy, I am surprised how seldom it downshifts. Much less stressful knowing you have plenty of power.
2) By adding two feet behind the axle in the 2922, it seems to have exacerbated the tendency to sway compared to other models. Don't know for sure, as I have pulled any other model of Trailmanor, but I know the sway issue twice had me literally fearing for my life.
3) The Andersen No Sway hitch has been an excellent solution to the problem. I know that some of the weight has been moved forward by observing front wheel well height changing when the hitch is installed vs. uninstalled. Since my F-150 has a tow rating of 11,900 lbs, the Trailmanor weight is not a major concern. The anti-sway feature is very important and works beautifully. The Trailmanor is just "there". Lane changes, wind and passing semi's cause very little if any instability. It is a major difference and I would not tow this trailer without it. I am a sample size of one.....I have only used the Andersen No Sway WDH. ( I did have one of those friction type brake shoe anti-sway bars on my old Coleman Bayside). So I really can't compare to Reese or any other brand, but I think some sort of WDH that minimizes sway is something everyone should consider a must have...at least with the 2922KD.
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Old 10-31-2014, 07:57 PM   #18
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Completely concur with Mark. I do tow in the mountain west, and out here I wouldn't want to be anywhere NEAR my max tow rating. I'm happy towing around 60% of rated! I want MARGIN in cooling, braking, and power!

I have come to believe that some type of anti-sway is highly desirable, almost an essential - you will be shocked at what a sudden crosswind gust at the wrong moment can do to you without some sway resistance, especially if your trailer is a little heavy aft! Weight distributing hitches may or may not be needed based on the capacity of your TV, but I believe that they give you a degree of flexibility in how you load your TV that is always worth the cost!

A quality, slightly oversized transmission oil cooler is your friend in the desert and the mountains! And ALWAYS spec the max cooling package in a tow vehicle if you are lucky enough to be buying a new one!
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Old 11-01-2014, 06:23 AM   #19
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Exclamation

Wheelbase of a Highlander is 109.8, I towed with a Honda Pilot (wheelbase of 109.2) you will definitely need WDH.

Horsepower on the Toyota is 270 and Torque is 248. The Honda was 255 HP and 270 ft/lb torque.

I used the Pilot for three years and I felt like I had to be "on top of the wheel" the entire time and I was towing a 2619.

It can be done but you are in the "margins." YMMV.
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Old 11-01-2014, 08:26 AM   #20
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OK my heep is the best tow car I have ever had (and started towing race cars in 1970.

290 hp/260 lb-ft & 114.9" wb but just as important regarding sway is a 4475 lb curb weight, 50/50 weight distribution, and 38" from center of rear axle to hitch (shorter is good). It also has traction and sway controls.

It has "enough" power to stay out of Power Enrichment at 65 on Florida roads so gets 17-18 mpg on 87 PON.

You have seen my opinon about WDHs before but just lets say that anything that adds or transfers weight to the 3.5k rated TM axle is anathema to me.
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