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Old 01-23-2010, 02:28 PM   #1
Philip
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Default Ideas To Repair Damage To 2720 Roof

I have a 2008 2720 TM purchased new. Unfortunately I had a slight accident with the forward roof section(a freaky mistake). The accident resulted in an approx. 6" straight cut in the aluminum on the forward section of the roof in a flat area. The cut is only through the exterior aluminum sheet and slightly into the foam core(approx. 1/8" deep). The roof is not distorted at all and the interior aluminum sheet has not been damaged or distorted at all.

Does anyone have an idea as to the best way to make a repair or has anyone made a repair on damage similar to mine? Obviously I would like the repair to be as close to new as possible. The factory said they could replace the panel for approx. $5,000 or they may be able to cover with a sheet of aluminum. I do not plan to replace the panel nor do I think it necessary.
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Old 01-23-2010, 02:37 PM   #2
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Originally Posted by Philip View Post
I have a 2008 2720 TM purchased new. Unfortunately I had a slight accident with the forward roof section(a freaky mistake). The accident resulted in an approx. 6" straight cut in the aluminum on the forward section of the roof in a flat area. The cut is only through the exterior aluminum sheet and slightly into the foam core(approx. 1/8" deep). The roof is not distorted at all and the interior aluminum sheet has not been damaged or distorted at all.

Does anyone have an idea as to the best way to make a repair or has anyone made a repair on damage similar to mine? Obviously I would like the repair to be as close to new as possible. The factory said they could replace the panel for approx. $5,000 or they may be able to cover with a sheet of aluminum. I do not plan to replace the panel nor do I think it necessary.
How wide is the cut?

If it's under about 1" wide, it could easily be filled with 3M 5200 adhesive. It takes about 3 days to partially cure and about 30-days to fully cure. It would be a simple matter of filling the void with a caulking gun. Then take a putty knife and smooth it out. Clean up is done with mineral spirits. The color is close to an exact match but if you want to sand and paint it, that can be done after it is fully cured.

It will withstand expansion and contraction from temp changes. It will also withstand flexing and vibration. It hardens to a very hard rubber consistency and nothing that I know of, adheres like that stuff does.
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Old 01-23-2010, 02:45 PM   #3
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How wide is the cut?
The cut is less than a 1/4" wide at its widest and mostly about 1/8" wide.
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Old 01-23-2010, 03:31 PM   #4
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Wayne can you repair screw holes with that stuff in the metal wafer. I have a couple on the interior I'd like to patch.
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Old 01-23-2010, 03:58 PM   #5
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You could easily get away with a 3oz tube. This stuff adheres to almost any clean surface (except polyethylene plastic) and it's good for a multitude of repairs. It's slow drying so you have lots of working time.

You just have to be aware that it cleans up with mineral spirits (don't touch it with water). You can also put some mineral spirits on the end of your finger and smooth out the surface so that it blends in nicely and should be all but invisible. If you use a putty knife, coat it with mineral spirits too.

Larry, when you put it on the metal wafer, you can put some mineral spirits on your finger and work the stuff to match. Just don't get too much mineral spirits in there. Just remember that it dries almost pure white. The same color as the outside.

Also, be aware that once you open the tube and expose it to oxygen, the curing process starts. It's best to open the tube, apply as much as you need then quickly close the tube. The product in the tube may stay workable for several months if you reduce the exposure.
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Old 01-23-2010, 05:44 PM   #6
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On other forums a lot of people swear by Eternabond for roof repairs:

http://www.eternabond.com/RV-Leak-Re...ducts-s/22.htm
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Old 01-26-2010, 10:35 AM   #7
Philip
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Originally Posted by harveyrv View Post
You could easily get away with a 3oz tube. This stuff adheres to almost any clean surface (except polyethylene plastic) and it's good for a multitude of repairs. It's slow drying so you have lots of working time.

You just have to be aware that it cleans up with mineral spirits (don't touch it with water). You can also put some mineral spirits on the end of your finger and smooth out the surface so that it blends in nicely and should be all but invisible. If you use a putty knife, coat it with mineral spirits too.

Larry, when you put it on the metal wafer, you can put some mineral spirits on your finger and work the stuff to match. Just don't get too much mineral spirits in there. Just remember that it dries almost pure white. The same color as the outside.

Also, be aware that once you open the tube and expose it to oxygen, the curing process starts. It's best to open the tube, apply as much as you need then quickly close the tube. The product in the tube may stay workable for several months if you reduce the exposure.
Carolyn & Wayne,

Thank you for sharing your knowledge on repairs. I am quite familiar with 5200 as I am an "X" sailing cruiser like you all. It is good to hear that the 5200 cures at close to the same color as the roof skin. My only concern with the 5200 repair is that 5200 gradually decays under the sun, as you know. Since it should be painted I am wondering how to match the color well. Do you know if you can get a small section of the aluminum roof from the factory? I could 5200 it in place and it may end up as the least noticable repair. Another option may be to have a paint store match the roof color with their computer mix machines. Have you ever done this? I have a small section of the aluminum roof(too small for the repair) given to me as a construction sample when I purchased the TM. This could be used by the paint shop to match color. Being a boater, have you ever considered Marine Tex epoxy for a repair?

Again, thank you for the help.

Phil
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Old 01-26-2010, 11:26 AM   #8
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Does this stuff stick overhead?

I'm watching this thread because I have the opposite problem. I recently replaced the factory kitchen faucet with one from Orchard Supply Hardware (as has been suggested several months ago), and on one occasion I failed to close that faucet when closing the TM.

I now have a U shaped indent in the ceiling in the shower, just inside the shower curtain. I think I could gently pry the metal skin out to a bit past flush, fill the void with something and then gently push the skin back to where it should be.

But, being overhead, anything like syrup will run out. Caulk will probably be thick enough to not run out. But I am not sure what kind of caulk to use
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Old 01-26-2010, 06:35 PM   #9
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I put a gash in my front shell a while back, about 8"x3/4". Filled it in with Mighty Putty. Sanded, and painted it with appliance paint. Looks fine and has never leaked, pealed, faded or anything. I can send pictures and the Mighty Putty I didn't use if you're interested. Free, I'm not looking to make a buck. Billy may be gone but the putty endures :-)
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Old 01-26-2010, 08:13 PM   #10
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Originally Posted by grill-n-go View Post
I put a gash in my front shell a while back, about 8"x3/4". Filled it in with Mighty Putty. Sanded, and painted it with appliance paint. Looks fine and has never leaked, pealed, faded or anything. I can send pictures and the Mighty Putty I didn't use if you're interested. Free, I'm not looking to make a buck. Billy may be gone but the putty endures :-)
Hello Mario & Idie,

Thank you for the info. Could you please send me your picture of the repair to my email at [email protected]. It would be nice to see a repair similar to the one I have to make.

Thank you again,

Phil
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