TrailManor Owner's Forum  

Go Back   TrailManor Owner's Forum > TrailManor Technical Discussions > Plumbing
Register FAQ Members List Calendar Mark Forums Read

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 09-25-2020, 08:11 AM   #11
TMfor4ofus
Senior Member
 
TMfor4ofus's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2016
Location: Huntington Beach, CA
Posts: 83
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill View Post
Which clear tube? There is a clear tube that runs from the tank, near the top, to the low-pressure inlet fitting on the side of the trailer. This is a vent tube to let air out of the tank as you fill it, and to warn you when it is close to full.

On some TMs there is a clear tube from near the top of the tank to a fitting in the floor. This is an overflow drain in case you overfill the tank. It appaers in Lederhos' first pic above.

There are clear tubes with white mesh embedded in the wall of the tubes - these are the inlet and outlet hoses connected to the pump. You can see these in the fifth picture from Lederhos, above.

Picture?

Bill
Ok thanks. Now about the fittings on the pump. I'd like to connect it using some soft tubing as pictured above in lederhos post. Are those type of fittings readily available. IE the ones that thread in and have a barbed connection to clamp the tube to? The tubing also? I just want to get everything together before I pull the TM out and open it up. Its a process.
__________________
2011 2720QB Loaded from factory plus a few upgrades
TV 2019 F150 S Crew FX4 3.5 EB
TMfor4ofus is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-25-2020, 12:10 PM   #12
Bill
Site Team
 
Bill's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: The mountains of Scottsdale, AZ, and the beaches of Maine
Posts: 10,088
Default

Curt and Jennifer -

Re: Fittings on the pump
I'm not a plumber, and I'm not smart enough to have a one-word answer at hand. I've tried to so some research for you, but I'm still unsure. Here's what I think I know.

The pump itself has male fittings on both ends. If it has a strainer, the strainer will have a female fitting on the pump end, and a male fitting on the hose end, so the entire assembly is still male on both ends. The installation manual for the pump (you should look it up) says:

Quote:
1/2" Male threaded models [the pump] are intended to be used with SHURFLO swivel barb fittings which seal with an internal taper when hand tightened. CAUTION: Sealers and Teflon tape may act as lubricant causing cracked housings or stripped threads due to over-tightening. Sealer may enter the pump inhibiting valve action, causing no prime or no shut-off. A failure due to foreign debris is not covered under warranty.
In other words, the fitting is intended to be hand-tightened only - no wrenches. And you don't use any teflon tape or pipe thread compound. It also says, less directly, that the threads on the female fittings are tapered inward slightly, and male fittings are straight. When the straight threads jam into the tapered threads, this is what allows the two parts of the joint to be watertight with only hand-tightening. Having played with them recently, I can tell you that it is a nice easy joint.

The female half of each fitting (the adapter) is called a swivel fitting, meaning it can turn, at least until it is assembled and tightened. In my TM, the other end of the fitting was mated directly to a PEX barb, which is not recommended. As you see in the manual, the recommendation is to buy a swivel fitting with a hose barb on one end, and attach it to hose. I don't think a hose barb and a PEX barb are interchangeable.

I think Amazon has the fittings you need. Home Depot and Lowes don't look promising. I'm not a plumber. I'm just reading the manual. You should, too.

Bill
__________________
2020 2720QS (aka 2720SL)
2014 Ford F-150 4WD 5.0L
Bill's Tech Stuff album
Bill is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-25-2020, 01:36 PM   #13
TMfor4ofus
Senior Member
 
TMfor4ofus's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2016
Location: Huntington Beach, CA
Posts: 83
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill View Post
Curt and Jennifer -

Re: Fittings on the pump
I'm not a plumber, and I'm not smart enough to have a one-word answer at hand. I've tried to so some research for you, but I'm still unsure. Here's what I think I know.

The pump itself has male fittings on both ends. If it has a strainer, the strainer will have a female fitting on the pump end, and a male fitting on the hose end, so the entire assembly is still male on both ends. The installation manual for the pump (you should look it up) says:

In other words, the fitting is intended to be hand-tightened only - no wrenches. And you don't use any teflon tape or pipe thread compound. It also says, less directly, that the threads on the female fittings are tapered inward slightly, and male fittings are straight. When the straight threads jam into the tapered threads, this is what allows the two parts of the joint to be watertight with only hand-tightening. Having played with them recently, I can tell you that it is a nice easy joint.

The female half of each fitting (the adapter) is called a swivel fitting, meaning it can turn, at least until it is assembled and tightened. In my TM, the other end of the fitting was mated directly to a PEX barb, which is not recommended. As you see in the manual, the recommendation is to buy a swivel fitting with a hose barb on one end, and attach it to hose. I don't think a hose barb and a PEX barb are interchangeable.

I think Amazon has the fittings you need. Home Depot and Lowes don't look promising. I'm not a plumber. I'm just reading the manual. You should, too.

Bill
Ok thanks Bill. I did browse through the manual that comes with the pump. I just wasnt sure about adapting it to the soft tubing as it mentions. Ours is also hooked up directly to the pex on the output side which as mentioned is not recommended! So why does TM manufacture them that way?? Anyway it was loud so while I'm at it I would like to quiet it down. The pump itself has a rubber mounting bracket so that's nice.
__________________
2011 2720QB Loaded from factory plus a few upgrades
TV 2019 F150 S Crew FX4 3.5 EB
TMfor4ofus is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-03-2020, 07:14 PM   #14
TMfor4ofus
Senior Member
 
TMfor4ofus's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2016
Location: Huntington Beach, CA
Posts: 83
Default Water pump replaced still some issues?

Uggg! So I hooked up the new WP and got a strainer and quiet Kit (2 hoses and male fillings). The pump runs but I decided to hook up to city water to prime the plumbing. While on city water no less I still get almost no water out of the Kitchen faucet but the shower flows great?? the faucet started flowing a little but never flowed good. Anyway I shut the city water off and ran the pump (its nice and quiet btw). The pump runs for a short time and shuts off but hardly any water comes out of the faucet?? The bathroom faucet had the same problem but that was fixed by removing the strainer. No such luck with the kitchen faucet. So I think the original WP is fine. If we would've turned on the shower I bet it would've flowed good and not assumed it was a bad WP. (live and learn) So now were down to no water out of the kitchen faucet. I'd take it off and replace but How in the **** am I to do that? Cant even get under the cabinet to even see the connections to the faucet. I may switch the original pump back in and send it back to amazon?? or not researching issues related to the kitchen faucet now
__________________
2011 2720QB Loaded from factory plus a few upgrades
TV 2019 F150 S Crew FX4 3.5 EB
TMfor4ofus is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-05-2020, 04:37 PM   #15
Bill
Site Team
 
Bill's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: The mountains of Scottsdale, AZ, and the beaches of Maine
Posts: 10,088
Default

TM used a number of faucet sets over the years.Most (all?) of them can be opened up from the top, so you can remove and inspect the core or mechanism inside the valve. Are both the hot and cold sides of the faucet in trouble? If so, this would suggest a problem in the outlet pipe itself - the pipe which runs water from both the hot and cold valves into the sink. It may sound silly, but I would open up the faucet mechanisms, both sides, from the top, remove the cores, and push a wire backward into the spout and back toward the valves. If there is a blockage, it might push it out to where you can grab it with tweezers or needle-nose pliers, and remove it.

Bill
__________________
2020 2720QS (aka 2720SL)
2014 Ford F-150 4WD 5.0L
Bill's Tech Stuff album
Bill is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-05-2020, 06:40 PM   #16
TMfor4ofus
Senior Member
 
TMfor4ofus's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2016
Location: Huntington Beach, CA
Posts: 83
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill View Post
TM used a number of faucet sets over the years.Most (all?) of them can be opened up from the top, so you can remove and inspect the core or mechanism inside the valve. Are both the hot and cold sides of the faucet in trouble? If so, this would suggest a problem in the outlet pipe itself - the pipe which runs water from both the hot and cold valves into the sink. It may sound silly, but I would open up the faucet mechanisms, both sides, from the top, remove the cores, and push a wire backward into the spout and back toward the valves. If there is a blockage, it might push it out to where yo can grab it with tweezers or needle-nose pliers, and remove it.

Bill
Okay so we got it flowing again. Better then ever in fact. We found a suggestion using a compressor to blow air back from the spout. So I had my wife outside and removed the screen at the city water inlet. Then if you push in the one way valve water can flow out the inlet. So while I blew air in the spout alternating opening the hot and cold a few times she pushed in the valve and water (and hopefully debris) could blast out of the inlet. What do you know it worked! Hallelujah!!! So now everything is flowing well. If for some reason it plugs up again I'll try what you said. I decided to just leave the new pump installed since its working and no leaks. It was only $60 so no big and the other benefit its now nice and quiet since I installed the silencing kit (2 hoses and male fittings). I installed the new pump sideways because I added a strainer while I was at it. I also routed and tied the hoses so that they are not touching any walls or the tank. Here's a picture of it installed and the silencing kit ($25 on amazon). Thanks as always Bill
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	20201003_152422.jpg
Views:	43
Size:	4.62 MB
ID:	19557   Click image for larger version

Name:	20201004_085416.jpg
Views:	46
Size:	3.99 MB
ID:	19558  
__________________
2011 2720QB Loaded from factory plus a few upgrades
TV 2019 F150 S Crew FX4 3.5 EB
TMfor4ofus is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-19-2023, 02:55 PM   #17
Stratty12
New Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2020
Posts: 4
Default

Hey all,

I have a 2005 2720SD and the water pump went out. With the fresh water tank, water heater, and un-pliable water lines everywhere Im not sure how to go about replacing the pump. e.g. removing it safely and installing a new one.

I found this post about cutting access holes for the faucet: https://www.trailmanorowners.com/for...ghlight=faucet
which I need to do anyways since I also have a leak back there. But that will only help maybe to loosen the high pressure side of the pump.

One thought was to also remove the sink since I will have access to disconnect the faucet lines but Im not sure how I will be able to get to all four of the mounting clips that attach the sink to the cabinet.

Perhaps I will have to remove the fresh water tank instead, but that is also a tight fit and potentially will need more plumbing work if I cant get all those those fittings to be as snug as they are today.

Anyone ever have to replace the water pump on the 2720SD that could give me some advice/best practice?
Stratty12 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-19-2023, 10:30 PM   #18
Kidkraz
Site Sponsor
 
Kidkraz's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2013
Posts: 1,037
Default

Don't cut holes yet. I'm not familiar with your model, so post some pics if ya can, to help get ya an answer.
__________________
2013 2619
80 watt solar panel/swing hitch/low profile A/C.
Enduro 4445 caravan mover
2016 Dodge Ram 1500 V8 Hemi
Installed powered folding tow mirrors

Stopped playing with airplanes, now I just enjoy watching them fly by.
Kidkraz is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 05-20-2023, 07:17 AM   #19
Bill
Site Team
 
Bill's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: The mountains of Scottsdale, AZ, and the beaches of Maine
Posts: 10,088
Default

Stratty -

One useful hint. If you need to get access to stuff in that terribly-crowded area under the sink, start by taking off the doors. A Phillips screwdriver, I think, will make quick work of it. When the doors are off, remove the stile - the vertical piece between the doors. Same Phillips screwdriver. This will give you much better access to the area - and will prevent you from breaking the doors or hinges as you work.

Bill
__________________
2020 2720QS (aka 2720SL)
2014 Ford F-150 4WD 5.0L
Bill's Tech Stuff album
Bill is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-21-2023, 09:11 AM   #20
Deb Mac
Site Sponsor
 
Join Date: May 2022
Location: Logan Lake, BC, Can
Posts: 216
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Stratty12 View Post
Hey all,

I have a 2005 2720SD and the water pump went out. With the fresh water tank, water heater, and un-pliable water lines everywhere Im not sure how to go about replacing the pump. e.g. removing it safely and installing a new one.

I found this post about cutting access holes for the faucet: https://www.trailmanorowners.com/for...ghlight=faucet
which I need to do anyways since I also have a leak back there. But that will only help maybe to loosen the high pressure side of the pump.

One thought was to also remove the sink since I will have access to disconnect the faucet lines but Im not sure how I will be able to get to all four of the mounting clips that attach the sink to the cabinet.

Perhaps I will have to remove the fresh water tank instead, but that is also a tight fit and potentially will need more plumbing work if I cant get all those those fittings to be as snug as they are today.

Anyone ever have to replace the water pump on the 2720SD that could give me some advice/best practice?
Just had to do that!! I had a leak on the outgoing fitting, then at the pump head, once I replaced the leaking connector on the high pressure side. I opted to relocate the pump to the top of the fresh water tank at the front of the cabinet. I cut the outgoing pex and replaced the entire original vinyl incoming line (it was old too, so I figured, why not!) and that outgoing section of pex with 1/2" braided vinyl tubing and gear clamps.

After being in and out of the back of that cabinet 3 times, with arms that don't quite reach, through that maze of pex, I figured this way I could actually put a filter on the inlet side and clean it, as one is supposed to do. Also puts flexible tubing on the outgoing side of the pump, also as you should do (this is according to Shurflo installation instructions).

I set it on a small square of 3/8 plywood glued to a piece of foam packing material. Screwed the pump base onto that. Screws go through the plywood and about 1/3 of the depth of the foam, so no damage to the tank. I haven't done it yet, but I will use 4 small squares of "Alien Tape" to keep that pad in place. Will be simple enough to remove if I need to access the back of the cabinet for anything. A lot easier than that back wall!!

The fresh water tank is a nice solid base, and with that foam pad underneath it, the whole set-up is quiet as a mouse - even with the door off.

Now I know that this negates the "using gravity to empty the pump for winterizing" deal. But I also installed a tank by-pass valve last fall, and I run RV antifreeze through the pump for winter. It doesn't take much residual water in a pump to damage it if it freezes. And although it was a PITA to get that valve installed, I am very glad I did. It also has given me the ability to test the integrity of any plumbing repairs without having to fill the tank. I am in a storage yard, and no taps available. Easier to pack 2 gallon jugs of clean water from home in the truck

Now regarding accessing the faucets... No suggestions. So far, don't want to jinx myself, but I haven't had a problem there.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	2023-05-21_07-51-24.jpg
Views:	22
Size:	111.9 KB
ID:	22005   Click image for larger version

Name:	2023-05-21_08-04-40.jpg
Views:	18
Size:	216.3 KB
ID:	22006  
__________________
2008 2720SL “The Kobayashi Maru”
2006 Toyota 4Runner, SR5, 4L V6
Deb Mac is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Tags
water pump replacement


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Water pump replacement info Jeff the marmot Plumbing 3 07-06-2014 04:09 PM
Water pump mod question Riwright Plumbing 3 11-16-2012 07:49 AM
Noisy water pump - making it quieter ShrimpBurrito Plumbing 35 05-22-2012 11:22 PM
SOLUTION: The ultimate fresh water transfer pump ShrimpBurrito Plumbing 38 03-01-2012 03:40 PM
Water leak at fresh water opening - HELP Bendy3 Plumbing 4 07-26-2007 10:37 PM


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 05:50 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions Inc.
Copyright 2022 Trailmanor Owners Page.