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Old 08-17-2017, 08:38 AM   #11
HoMiPa
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill View Post
This highlights a mistake that many of us make, assuming that all units of a given model year are the same, and that changes happen only on model year boundaries. Neither is true. TM made changes whenever it worked out best for them. I can't blame them, but it makes things a bit confusing for those of us trying to do (or guide) repairs and maintenance in the future. It also highlights the need to be specific when requesting help here on the forum.
The other issue is anyone who has purchased a used model, may not necessarily know any swaps/upgrades/replacements made to appliances (and other things) by a previous owner.
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Old 08-17-2017, 10:12 AM   #12
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Back when I was deep into AV this was one of the things that saved up: virus writers always assumed every PC was the same as theirs. Have also encountered a number of people who think that everyone believes the same things they do and will act the same way. Often you can tell a person's faults by what they accuse others of.

Meanwhile I just know my condensate goes down the street side and am happy it is not inside.
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Old 08-17-2017, 10:30 AM   #13
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Default Atwood install

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Originally Posted by mmayville View Post
My unit is a 2004. The gasket is new and the mount is leaning backwards towards the drain pan. I noticed it when I looked at it sideways from the curb side of the roof. I put a couple of shims on the inside to bring the drain pan up in the front. Looks good so far so will put a water hose to it tomorrow.
How recently was the Atwood installed? Is it a replacement unit?
The reason I ask is that when I installed my Atwood I discovered that the holes for the mounting bolts are outside the lip that is formed at the top of the opening. That lip serves as a dam for blocking the water from the a/c.

Holes for the mount must be drilled outside that dam. If there is any leak from the pan, around those screws, the water will run down them to the inside.

The seal sits outside the dam and will hold back any moisture that drains outside of it, but if there is a passage through the pan inside the seal, there is no other place for it to go.

Check my photos for my install.
http://www.trailmanorowners.com/foru...0&postcount=16
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Old 08-18-2017, 10:15 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by grubbyjeans View Post
How recently was the Atwood installed? Is it a replacement unit?
The reason I ask is that when I installed my Atwood I discovered that the holes for the mounting bolts are outside the lip that is formed at the top of the opening. That lip serves as a dam for blocking the water from the a/c.

Holes for the mount must be drilled outside that dam. If there is any leak from the pan, around those screws, the water will run down them to the inside.

The seal sits outside the dam and will hold back any moisture that drains outside of it, but if there is a passage through the pan inside the seal, there is no other place for it to go.

Check my photos for my install.
http://www.trailmanorowners.com/foru...0&postcount=16
And correct you are!! I dismantled the vent system inside the unit and took out the 4 bolts holding the inside vent mount. Went up on top and propped the front half of A/C with a 1x2 to check the seal. Low and behold on the curb side corner this is a 1/16 gap between the front seal and the side seal of the unit. Something making me crazy for our whole vacation only to find out the the manufacturer did not put the seal on correctly and the place that installed the unit did not catch the gap in the seal.

Onward and upward, it now sits propped up in the front until the seal dries and I will fill the gap with flex silicone before putting it back together.

Tired of taking it back to the shop for repeated missed items that were messed up during the process of fixing my unit.

Lesson learned.
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Old 08-18-2017, 03:20 PM   #15
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Default Good news!

Quote:
Originally Posted by mmayville View Post
And correct you are!! I dismantled the vent system inside the unit and took out the 4 bolts holding the inside vent mount. Went up on top and propped the front half of A/C with a 1x2 to check the seal. Low and behold on the curb side corner this is a 1/16 gap between the front seal and the side seal of the unit. Something making me crazy for our whole vacation only to find out the the manufacturer did not put the seal on correctly and the place that installed the unit did not catch the gap in the seal.

Onward and upward, it now sits propped up in the front until the seal dries and I will fill the gap with flex silicone before putting it back together.

Tired of taking it back to the shop for repeated missed items that were messed up during the process of fixing my unit.

Lesson learned.
Glad I could offer some useful info.

Remember, a good continuous seal will hold in any moisture that gets into the area between the seal and the formed dam at the opening. Hopefully, repairing the seal will prevent storm water from entering that area.

You'll only need to be concerned about condensation that might enter the area. I'd suggest that once you have the a/c repositioned, and before you re-insert the mounting bolts, inject a good silicon sealer into the bolt holes. When you screw them in to the nuts you will have created a good seal around each of them that should prevent any moisture from traveling down them to the inside.

Carry on!
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Old 08-18-2017, 03:51 PM   #16
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Exactly what I did. Put flexible silicone. On all the bolts after repositioning and reseating the units.Tightened everything up and no more leaks. That's why I love this forum. So many people are amazed when you pull into a site and start set up. The look on their faces is priceless! 😁 Thank you too Bill for your input because it helps too. My Atwood A/C kicked butt Florida, and I Louisiana, Texas and Oklahoma keeping our unit nice and cold. My son has a fifth wheel 30 footer that was no where near as cool ours and his is year old. I will have attached a picture seal but you may have to zoom it to see the gap.
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Old 08-18-2017, 06:22 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mmayville View Post
Exactly what I did. Put flexible silicone. On all the bolts after repositioning and reseating the units.Tightened everything up and no more leaks. That's why I love this forum. So many people are amazed when you pull into a site and start set up. The look on their faces is priceless! 😁 Thank you too Bill for your input because it helps too. My Atwood A/C kicked butt Florida, and I Louisiana, Texas and Oklahoma keeping our unit nice and cold. My son has a fifth wheel 30 footer that was no where near as cool ours and his is year old. I will have attached a picture seal but you may have to zoom it to see the gap.
That ought to hold it.
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Old 08-19-2017, 06:21 PM   #18
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I had to take off the top cover and then tin around the evaporator unit. Than i could clean the tube or port that drained the drip pan. I also used coil cleaner to clean the coil.

Problem went away.
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Old 05-29-2023, 10:23 AM   #19
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Hi all,

I know this is a 6 year old thread now, but it has the right title, so others can find it.

I have been chasing down an AC leak, and wanted to post some pics to help others, and also share my latest discovery, which is where I'm unsure what to do next.

I have a 2007 3124KS. The AC is a Coleman Polar Mach 9203c876. I couldn't find a brand anywhere on it, but as you start taking it apart, there are labels around with part number 9203c876.



To begin, anytime the AC was on cool, I had a constant drip (every few seconds) coming through the left vent (behind the selector switch, passenger side).



I got on the roof, started dismantling, and cleaned all this nasty gunk out. Made sure all the little holes around were un-clogged.





But that didn't change the leak at all, so I kept on. On the passenger side, I saw this sponge which people in the forum had described. I tried yanking on it but mine is pretty anchored in there and I didn't wanna mess with it too much.



So I started taking it further apart. By the way, I think it was Bill who shared this link about AC roof links, which was very helpful and gave me the courage to keep dismantling.

I had a bunch of nice shiny tape holding my evaporator cover on. Got that off to expose the evaporator coil.



I cleaned and felt all around. Discovered that water was pooling on that off-white piece of plastic in the center. And that was dripping off the left side, and through the left vent. I've got a video of it, here.

I could see what looked like the drain pan, but it was all locked in place. So I started dismantling these parts with high voltage warnings.



This exposed the drain pain.



There was a bunch of nasty gunk in the pan, and dammed up along the base of the coil. I think that means the initial leak couldn't get to the drain pan, because of the dam of gunk.

I got a toothbrush to scoop all that out. Jammed my finger down in the drain hole to clear that out. I also sprayed the evaporator coil with 409. Others had recommended "coil cleaner". Then I sprayed it with water so the gunk in the coil also dripped down. And I cleaned all that out of the pan.

Finally, this fixed the internal leak!!

But, there is still some water finding its way back inside. I noticed that when the water drips through the drip pan, it's pooling on the yellowish surface, the base of the AC. So I suspect that the water is either (1) coming in through a crack in the top of the yellow plastic, or (2) dripping off the plastic, pooling on the roof, and coming back in through a gap in the sealant at the base of the yellow plastic.

I've also been following the remaining leak, as it's been coming in through a few different places. I've found water dripping off of the front left spring-loaded screw. But more often, I've seen it coming in through this screw hole here, with water gathering all along that lip.



I took that shroud off, and found water pooling on top of the metal roof layer, near this crack.



I don't understand the anatomy of this part of the roof and AC. My best guess is that this white wood paneling with the crack in it is what's holding up the yellowish plastic. And it seems that there is water flowing through the crack, and then down through the screw holes. That's why I'm thinking the water is either dripping through the top or the bottom of the yellowing plastic, then finding it's way through this crack, and back inside.

My first thought was to seal up the crack in the wood, but then the water would just pool up there in the inner layers, which would become very problematic. Any ideas on how to trace down the potential crack in the yellow base?

Hmm perhaps I could carve out the big whole in the drain pan, and route a short length of tubing to bypass the yellow piece, and run the water straight onto the roof.

Hope this is helpful to others, and thanks in advance for any ideas.
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Old 05-29-2023, 03:59 PM   #20
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It's been a long time since I delved as deeply into the construction as you describe. But I would concentrate on the drain pan. All of the water that drips off any part of the air conditioner should drip into the drain pan. In earlier days (including 2007) the drain pan had an opening that simply drooled the water onto the roof, and it ran away in whatever direction it could. Sometimes an unexpected direction, especially of the crown of the roof was collapsing. More recently, a clear vinyl hose was attached to the drain pan outlet, and led a couple inches over the edge of the roof. Now the water drips onto the ground.

You might try adding a nipple to the drain pan outlet if it doesn't have one, and then adding a length of vinyl hose over the edge of the roof.

Of course it goes without saying (but I'll say it anyway) that the nipple and hose must be cleared of all gunk and goop that might block it. Again in the older days, it was common to find that the drain pan outlet was clogged, making the pan overflow in areas where it wasn't supposed to.

Let us know.

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