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Old 04-09-2023, 02:07 PM   #11
Shane826
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For what a new end is gonna cost, I’d just replace it and be done.
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Old 04-09-2023, 05:17 PM   #12
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Default Same issue

I had the same issue once on our first TM. I used a very small flat blade screw driver and bent the connections closer together. They where spread to far apart to make contact. Try it, hope this helps. Let us know what you find out.
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Old 04-09-2023, 08:43 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kidkraz View Post
Bill, might this be ok for the corrosion removal?
For accessible surfaces, I think it is a very good solution. But you won't be able to get it very far down into the 7-pin connector. It is kinda tight in there, and you need to be able to get deep between the blades, directing your cleaning effort sideways against the metal surface of the blades. A vigorous shot of contact cleaner first will dissolve and break loose the crud. Then turn the connector over and thump it on the top of the workbench to get the liquid contact cleaner out, carrying a lot of the loose junk with it. Now, while is still wet in there, is the time to go into it with whatever brush you have, pressing it against the contact surfaces of the blades.

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Old 04-09-2023, 09:15 PM   #14
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How about an old toothbrush?
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Old 04-10-2023, 08:07 AM   #15
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A toothbrush would be good for attacking the visible corrosion on the black plastic surface of the plug. But that is not your real goal - that white junk isn't hurting anything, and removing it won't fix the problem. Your goal is to remove the corrosion that is down inside the plug, between the metal blades. I'm not sure how you would get a toothbrush down into there.

I continue to think that the best approach is a two-step process. First, shoot some solvent down between the blades to loosen the white junk inside, and dissolve some of it. Let it sit for 2 or 3 minutes, then push "something" down between the blades to scrub them. The "something" should be stiff enough to push in, a bit absorbent so it can carry the solvent down between the blades, but not strongly abrasive like sandpaper or a metal file. I have always cut a strip of light cardboard (not corrugated box stuff), maybe 1/4" wide by 1-1/2 inch long, sprayed it with the solvent, pushed it down in, and worked it in and out to scrub the metal surfaces a bit. Quick and easy.

Where to get the cardboard? Think of the box that Ritz crackers or Cheerios come in. Solvent? Contact cleaner from a hardware store.

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Old 04-12-2023, 08:53 PM   #16
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Default update 2

Lights are back to normal, not counting the couple of bulbs that are out -rt taillight.
After following advice on cleaning & fixing the gap in 7 pin connector, all my lights are back online. I've added electric grease.

Thank you everyone who responded & opined, I appreciate your help.

This started in part due to r heavy rains in So.Cal, TM was covered &; cord had rubber cap, I found water in the cap just before a trip. Then the 10 day trip through California, Oregon, Washingto, Idaho & back, was rain soaked

Thanks,
Jola
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Old 04-13-2023, 08:11 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jola1925 View Post
...all my lights are back online. I've added electric grease.
Electric grease is a great idea. I should have included it in my suggestion.

Quote:
This started in part due to r heavy rains in So.Cal ... cord had rubber cap, I found water in the cap
As you have found out, the rubber cap is pretty useless. I highly recommend you get something like an AP Products 008320 Plug Guard. It is basically an upside-down cup, screwed to the side of the trailer A-frame. You push the plug up into the cup, where it latches in place. The plug is held up off the ground, and because the cup is upside down, water can't get into it. We have had one for years - never a problem.

https://www.amazon.com/AP-Products-0.../dp/B0007IN3M2

I like this one better than the one I posted earlier because it has a spring-loaded cap that keeps the inside of the cup clean and dry while you drive.

Bill
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Old 04-13-2023, 10:51 AM   #18
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Thank you, I will check that out.
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