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Old 02-11-2023, 11:10 AM   #11
FlyboyTR
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wavery View Post
I'm not sure why I am just now seeing this but if you haven't attacked the issue yet, here's an EZ fix.

I recently removed the outside shower box (for a different project) and reviewed the under-tub area. I remembered that our tub had a soft spot where yours is. I noticed that there was a gap between the tub bottom and the floor. I got a can of that expanding foam and filled that area. I left it set for a few days, then I trimmed the excess foam so that I could get the outside box back in. I tested the tub and it's solid as a rock.

Hope that helps.
Wavery,
Thanks for the info. I was able to add some bracing under the tub and it did help...but the next time I have the outside shower removed, I will follow your lead with the expanding foam. Thanks!

Travis
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Old 02-11-2023, 06:47 PM   #12
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When I had this problem on one of my earlier TMs, I glued some wooden blocks to the floor under the tub, and then topped it off (filled the small remaining gap) with a big glob of foam. Try to find some low expansion foam. The softer ones may still allow more bounce than you like.

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Old 02-11-2023, 08:42 PM   #13
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Originally Posted by Bill View Post
When I had this problem on one of my earlier TMs, I glued some wooden blocks to the floor under the tub, and then topped it off (filled the small remaining gap) with a big glob of foam. Try to find some low expansion foam. The softer ones may still allow more bounce than you like.

Bill
Thanks. Great point about the low expanding foam!

Travis
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Old 06-01-2023, 10:41 AM   #14
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Having just done a repair to the P-trap under the tub, I noticed in my labours that there was a lot of flex around the drain as I was trying to get the trap disconnected and the drain removed (another tale!).
Fortunately I didn't crack anything, and I have the P-trap repair finished.

Not having used the tub yet (new-to-me trailer last summer, haven't used the shower yet, and still working on it) I wasn't even aware of it. Glad to have found this thread (wish I had found it BEFORE I had finished the work on the P-trap repair ). Going to have a look under there while I have the trap cover off and see if I can address the problem from underneath without removing everything I have just put in. If not, I will just be very judicious when I use the shower, and avoid the front end until I can get the outdoor shower pulled - have to do that anyway at some point - couldn't get the old, stiff shower hose back into it's cubby when it came time to winterize and then close up. So I had to cut it off in order to close the door.

Followup…. Went back and checked. My tub is actually pretty solid. Right over the drain is a little soft, but not overly so. So looks like I lucked out there.
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Old 06-01-2023, 03:02 PM   #15
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Soft tub floor is a problem that several of us have experienced. You may be able to get easy access to the bottom of the tub by pulling the converter out of the wall. That's what I did. Then put the block on the floor under the soft spot. Make the block almost but not quite tall enough to touch the bottom of the tub, then squirt a lot of foam into the gap. Use a minimally-expanding foam.

Having gone through what you just did with the tub drain, you might want to mask off the area right around the drain, so you can do it all again if you need to.

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Old 06-06-2023, 01:28 PM   #16
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Originally Posted by Deb Mac View Post
Having just done a repair to the P-trap under the tub, I noticed in my labours that there was a lot of flex around the drain as I was trying to get the trap disconnected and the drain removed (another tale!).
Fortunately I didn't crack anything, and I have the P-trap repair finished.
.
Deb,
As usual on this Forum, I received a lot of good advise. If possible, read back through everything. There are several ways to access this area! Good luck!

Travis
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Old 06-06-2023, 02:40 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FlyboyTR View Post
Deb,
As usual on this Forum, I received a lot of good advise. If possible, read back through everything. There are several ways to access this area! Good luck!

Travis
I just pulled the outside shower out and the tub drain area is right there.

I used the expanding foam from HD. That stuff supports a LOT of weight. Another thing that you could do, if you don't feel comfortable using expanding foam. You could just Jam in some packaging Styrofoam. I didn't think of that until after I sprayed the expanding stuff. Then I looked at it and said, "Oh MAN!! I hope I never have to work on that area".

Deb Mac, If you do use the expanding stuff, be sure to wear gloves. If you get that stuff on your skin, you have about 30 seconds to get it off with acetone. After that, live with it until it wears off.
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Old 08-22-2023, 01:30 PM   #18
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Having just returned from a wonderful 5-1/2 week trip I discovered that I do have a soft spot (soft enough to make me nervous!) at the rear of the tub just before you get to the rise that accommodates the converter.

So I think I will be pulling the converter out to try to access that particular spot. I'm going to install my tank flusher in the poor man's sealand too - I think I'll look at running the tubing through the tub surround next to the fan and down through the floor there, so I will be pulling that little screened box from under the P-trap again. While I'm there, I'll do some reinforcing of the floor around the drain. Mine is pretty good, but there is some flex that i may as well eliminate while I'm under there.

I think I'll place a lit flashlight face-down in the tub over the soft spot at the rear to give me a better idea of where it is, and the best angle to access it. I have lots of that stiff packing styrofoam at home, so I think I will try to use that rather than the expanding stuff. Easier to remove if I ever have to get at anything that it might block.

I am also in the beginning stages of my shower mod (thanks for the post SirDrake!). Already had the Oxygenics shower head, and have the new curtains ready to go in. But I want to address the floor issue first.

Haven't pulled the converter in this one yet. Anything I should be aware of before I dive in? Bill? You did it.
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Old 08-22-2023, 02:34 PM   #19
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Just be aware that after you remove the screws in the wall, it will take some effort to pull the converter straight out then to the left. There are a lot of stiff wires back there and it's a jungle of wire back there. Not a lot of room to work. Just take your time and carefully move the wires that are in your way. It will take some patience to get that box out enough to work in there. Just work it out easily.

Be sure to disconnect your negative battery cable (that will completely and safely delete any battery involvement) and be sure that the trailer isn't plugged in to 110V.

I ran my black tank washout through the outside shower and down through the floor. It was EZ. Just be sure to use some chafe protection for that plastic hose. I used a 4" piece of 3/4" PVC pipe.
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Old 08-22-2023, 03:46 PM   #20
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Thanks Wavery. I’ll look at that routing of the washout line. Sounds pretty straightforward.

I did get the screws out of the converter and pulled it part way out carefully. You aren’t kidding about the rat’s nest of wiring back there!! And yes… VERY stiff. I opted to wait for some input from you guys before I went any farther, so I put it back. BTW, 6 of the 8 spots where it screws into the wall were already broken. Old plastic! So I will look at repairing/reinforcing those spots on the frame of the box before I start messing around any more.

I’ll go back tomorrow morning and take another run at shifting that converter enough to work through that opening. And crazy glue the pieces of cracked plastic back into the box.
Almost want to create an access panel in the vinyl tub siding……. 🤔
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