Corner Latch Pulling Out

davlin · 03-18-2013, 04:01 PM

Any good ideas out there for (correctly) repairing a cleat latch that has pulled out? This latch was like this when I bought my used 3124KS (our second TM). I tried to fix it with over-sized screws and adhesive chaulk. Looked good until the first time we latched it.

03-18-2013, 04:48 PM

davlin:
Put in a search for latch repair and that will bring up different fixes people have done.

countrygirl · 03-18-2013, 04:49 PM

You do not say what year your TM is. If it is pretty old as in before 2000/2001 there may be wood in the frame that is rotten. If that is the case you will need to replace the wood in order for the screws to hold. There are posts on this site that tells you how to go about it. If you are not a site sponsor you may not have access to the posts.

davlin · 03-19-2013, 06:27 AM

Happybeebob, I did do a site search and the only "solutions" that came up were to 1. use bigger screws (been there, done that) 2. get tie down straps to go over the shell (really?) and 3. just don't use the latches. If you know of something else out on the forum on this, please let me know.

Countrygirl, should have included the year of my 3124KS. It's a 2007. After the first pull out of this cleat, I was able to carefully probe into the original holes (I didn't have the problem mentioned in forum threads about multiple drill holes) and determined that there is NOTHING behind the aluminum skin but styrofoam insulation. No wood, no metal, just styrofoam. That means that all the travel force working on that cleat is absorbed by the very thin outer skin. Once this area has been damaged by the cleat pulling loose, I don't think any type/amount of glue and different screws is going to work. Since this problem seems common to TMs, I'm hoping someone out there has come up with a more durable fix. I also sent the original problem to Trailmanor. No response yet.

**B_and_D** · 03-19-2013, 07:30 AM

Do a search for "corner latch".

thewayneo · 03-19-2013, 07:41 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by davlin

Happybeebob, I did do a site search and the only "solutions" that came up were to 1. use bigger screws (been there, done that) 2. get tie down straps to go over the shell (really?) and 3. just don't use the latches. If you know of something else out on the forum on this, please let me know.

I sense your frustration with the "do a search" answer. http://www.trailmanorowners.com/foru...t=latch+repair

Post number 3 from Reldma talks about cutting a new piece of aluminum, attaching it over the old holes, and attaching the latch to it. The best cure I could find!

rvcycleguy · 03-19-2013, 07:59 AM

I've dealt with this issue more than once and am still dealing with it currently. Front corner is out like the OP. yes, you could attach a repair to the outside with a plate riveted, glued or screwed to the body and then reattach the latch. Or I've always felt you can use a backer plate from the inside. Given it a backer will allow you to use a machine thread screw with washer combo, right? I agree, the thin wall with insulation behind it does not allow a good repair base. The concept of using the wall thickness of both inside and outside skins with backer may be the approach I will test. There is access behind the bag seal on each upper corner. Open the roof and identify the area directly behind the corner latch. The older model TM have been known to pull out their latches much easier than newer units. Some of the pulled corner latches can be attributed to incorrect tension on the roof latches. You should not be pulling down the TM roof with the corner latch more than fractional. The latch pull itself does have an adjustment feature by twisting the rod on its threaded portion.

davlin · 03-19-2013, 09:38 AM

Thewayneo, I tried your link, but it says I don't have permission to access it. Did a search on all posts by Reldma, and didn't find the one you referenced, but I've already come to the conclusion that the best fix is going to be to attach (rivet) a plate over the damaged area.

Rvcycleguy, I also liked your idea about the backer plate, and in fact used that for a repair on my old (1995) TM 3326. In this case, I'm afraid that the outside skin is so damaged that I would be putting all the pressure on the inside skin, and I'm concerned about warping or distorting that.

My son is a helicopter repairer, and he says they use this technique (they call it a "scab plate" on helicopters all the time. He's getting stationed here in July, so I may wait and let an "expert" do it.

HIKERZ · 03-19-2013, 11:58 AM

You may try using marine tek as a filler than screw into it when cured

**ShrimpBurrito** · 03-19-2013, 12:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by davlin

Thewayneo, I tried your link, but it says I don't have permission to access it. Did a search on all posts by Reldma, and didn't find the one you referenced, but I've already come to the conclusion that the best fix is going to be to attach (rivet) a plate over the damaged area.

Davlin -- you will have access to that thread, and many others uncovered through a search (which undoubtedly will have pictures) if you renew your $12 membership.

http://www.trailmanorowners.com/foru...faq_membership

Dave