Socket size for Heating element

Hi,
I blew the heating element for my water heater and got the replacement part from Camping World.
However I can't find the socket to remove the old one. I went to Lowes and Harbor Freight and none I could find.
Please help me.
Thanks.
Ed

Originally Posted by M3 Rules

Hi,
I blew the heating element for my water heater and got the replacement part from Camping World.
However I can't find the socket to remove the old one. I went to Lowes and Harbor Freight and none I could find.
Please help me.
Thanks.
Ed

Sears has them, I'm pretty sure.

I think it takes a 1 and 1/16th inch socket.

[CAmark]

also know that it usually takes a lot of torque to break the old one loose...you may need a cheater bar; use some judgement as to how much is too much.

Originally Posted by mtnguy

I think it takes a 1 and 1/16th inch socket.

Chap, I had put that size socket originally in my post, before I realized I was talking about the anode rod, instead of the heater element. Are they the same size? I haven't had the priviledge of replacing the heater element yet.

Originally Posted by wmtire

Chap, I had put that size socket originally in my post, before I realized I was talking about the anode rod, instead of the heater element. Are they the same size? I haven't had the priviledge of replacing the heater element yet.

Oops Bobby, I was thinking the anode rod. How embarrassing. Thanks for catching that little goof.

I haven't had the pleasure of messing with the heating element either, so I haven't the foggiest on the size.

I found this post from Rickst29 in another forum, that may help.

http://www.trailmanorowners.com/foru...6&postcount=14

[Wavery]

Here's a tip for loosening that anode without breaking anything.

Take a small hammer and tap around the edge of the nut in a counterclockwise direction. Go around it about 5 times, tapping it about 3 times on each surface. Then try loosening the nut, if it moves a little and stops, move it back a little and tap around the threads again.

The nut is hard to remove because the tiny little crevices and voids in the threads get filled with corrosion. Over time that corrosion vibrates, heats, cools and compacts into a solid mass. This makes a terrific amount of friction when trying to turn the nut. Turning the nut without loosening these particles actually packs the particles tighter and increases the resistance. Putting a breaker bar on that nut could cause a lot of damage, including tearing a hole in the tank.

Tapping the surface of the nut is what all plumbers do before trying to do any plumbing repairs. I manage a 40-unit apt building and I do all of the handyman work. Before I learned that trick, I used to damage faucets, trying to remove the retaining nut to replace the faucets washers. Now that I tap them first they come right off and I haven't damaged one since. Same thing with drain pipe threads.

[YWORRYDOG]

A socket won’t work, unless you can find a thin wall, and you can’t. At most home box stores near the water heater elements they sell a “water heater element removing tool” (a cheap thin wall socket that fits) you need to use a bar, or strong screwdriver in the hole to brake the element lose.


Heavy Duty Water Heater Element Removal Wrench
- Removes those stubborn water heater elements
- Heavy duty construction
- For 1 1/2" elements
Water heater element wrench = $7.79

Watch your knuckles. Wear gloves.