How to Replace Water Heater Element and Anode Rod - Suburban SW6 DE - DIY

[TnP-2027]

Hopefully this thread can help new owners avoid my experience of blowing the electric water heater element and then having to replace it!

First - read this excellent post by Bill from the Technical Library: https://www.trailmanorowners.com/for...ad.php?t=19658

We found our first TM this summer - a 2009 2720 - and bought it!

This TM came with a dual mode water heater - propane and electric.

The previous owners gave it to us with water in the fresh water tank, and the outside switch in the external water heater compartment switched to "ON".

We went camping, and I did not know too much about the operations of the water heater. I was focused more on the fridge and toilet!

When it came time to go home from our first trip in the TM, I turned off all the switches under the sink, and then cracked the drains for the freshwater tank and water heater so we could lose weight as we drove home.

At home, I plugged the TM into our 20A/110V service in the garage and promptly blew the GFCI at the outlet!

Bill kindly helped me figure out that the GFCI may have been tripping b/c I blew the electric water heater element. If this does not make immediate sense to you, I had to think about it for a second as well! Read here: https://www.trailmanorowners.com/for...ead.php?t=8101

[TnP-2027]

There is already a great thread on replacing the water heater element by Bill: https://www.trailmanorowners.com/for...ad.php?t=11489

I am just trying to expand on some of the excellent ideas here and possibly help new owners avoid my mistakes!

In anticipation that I had blown the heater element, I set out to order some supplies. We have to park our camper away from the house, so I wanted to minimize the number of back and forth trips. I figured I would order parts, and then go out to the camper with the multi-meter to test the heater element.

For the Suburban SW6 DE, etrailer sells this element: https://www.etrailer.com/Accessories.../CAM02143.html

They also sell a thin-wall, stamped steel socket for the heater element: https://www.etrailer.com/Accessories.../CAM09883.html

I have a fair collection of large sockets, so I did not see the need to spend another $10 on a stamped steel socket. That decision cost me a day, and a few trips to different auto parts store, plus another back and forth trip to the camper.

If you are going to work on the water heater, make sure you check the anode rod. The sacrificial anode is in place to harvest excess minerals in the water and slow corrosion to the water heater tank. I think it also helps with the smell and taste of the hot water. Since I did not know if the previous owners had serviced the water heater, I thought I would get this:
https://www.etrailer.com/p-CAM11563....ils=.questions

I also thought it would be a good idea to be able to flush out the water heater tank, so I bought this wand that attaches to a garden hose:
https://www.etrailer.com/Accessories...10-4010VP.html

[TnP-2027]

First, disconnect the camper from shore power (110V AC).

Also, make sure the switch in the exterior compartment is switched "OFF".

Keep this switch OFF unless the water heater tanks is full of water!

If you leave the switch ON and plug the camper into shore power w/o water in the tank, I think you will blow your heater element rather quickly.

Here is the infamous switch:

[TnP-2027]

Bill does a great job describing how to remove the burner tube and the black plastic cover over the electric heater element - I have no value to add here:
https://www.trailmanorowners.com/for...ad.php?t=11489

I do get a kick out of the warning on the plastic cover advising you not to dry fire the water heater! You cannot see this warning until you basically have this cover removed. Oh well, they tried...

Once you have removed those, you can test your electric element using an ohmeter or multi-meter.

A good element will show continuity, mine showed an open.

In this picture, note the clearances around the heater element - this is why you need a tin-wall socket. My socket would not fit.

[TnP-2027]

So I thought I would inspect the anode rod since I couldn't pull the heater element.

Oh my goodness - look at the old rod compared to the new:

[TnP-2027]

You can see lots of mineral sediment around the opening for the anode rod.

I elevated the opposite side of the camper by pulling it onto some leveling blocks. This way water would run out of the anode hole, along w/ debris. We used the wash wand and hosed out the interior of the water heater.

Lots of sediment washed out!

[TnP-2027]

If you find yourself w/o the thin-wall socket for the water heater element, like me, AutoZone carries a 1.5" 12-pt socket that fits.

$9...

[TnP-2027]

Last post - old element vs. new:

[B_and_D]

We went to a TM rally in Petaluma many years ago. We had tried and tried to get our anode out and it wouldn't budge, and DH is a pretty strong guy. The Custom RV guys out of So Cal came to the rally and were offering advice on how to fix things. We told them that we couldn't get our anode rod out. They came over to our TM and used a big long bar on the anode and got it out. They asked us if they could have it so that they could put it on the wall of their shop as an example of why you should change your anode on a regular basis. If we're ever in So Cal I'm going to stop by to see if it's still there, LOL!

[Kidkraz]

I’ve used those folks twice now for servicing and they’re awesome. Its a bit of a drive, but worth the time.