Well, in that case you might be able to do it but it will be tricky. First you will have to remember to never connect the battery charger until the engine is running. Then if you stop for lunch or to gas up, you'll have to remember to unplug it and then reconnect it when the engine is running again. Then, to Bill's point there is the problem of keeping the 2 circuits separated. You could do that with a battery isolator. But my Dometic refrigerator draws 10 amps @ 12VDC, so your 6 amp battery charger still won't supply all the power it needs. And I don't know if trying to draw 10 amps from a 6 amp source will kill it completely or if it will just not work very good. My opinion is that this is too much trouble and too uncertain to try.
My 1998 2720SL came with a 6300 inverter. After about a year I replaced it with a 7300 which has greater capacity and 2 stage charging. We leave our TM set up in the back yard year round and connected to the 120VAC house power so the battery is almost always fully charged. I have a 60-0-60 ammeter in the battery circuit so I can check on the charge or discharge of the battery. On a trip I have the refrigerator on 12VDC and I leave the trailer plugged into the TV all the time unless I plan to leave the TV for a couple of hours. At the end of the day when we connect to the campground power, I usually check the ammeter. It almost always shows the battery charging at about 25 amps. That tells me the TV will not supply enough power for the refrig while traveling. But we have no problem with the refrig temp because we freeze everything we can before we leave and we pack it as full as we can without blocking the air circulation from the fan. when you open the door of a nearly empty refrig all the cold air falls out onto the floor, but if the refrig is full there is very little air to fall out.
This has gone far astray from the Solar Panel subject so I'll stop.
__________________
Joe from Virginia
|