Large window on door side

[Wavery]

Has anyone ever installed a large window on the door side of the front shell?

Does anyone have a schematic of the roof shell, showing where the roof frame members are?

I would very much like to install a dual pane window that extends forward nearly to the front window and also almost to the bottom of the shell.

I find it very frustrating not being able to see out that window while seated at the dinette or sofa. The window is too high and too small.

We have grandpa sit on thick firm chair pads to raise him up. Cheap and easy.
You could make a long pad for the bench (and a foot stool to rest feet on if needed).

I would assume there would be solid framing from the lift arm to the roof where you show the new cutout. I do like your idea for my long list of projects on the TM. (It looks like my 3023 already has a wide window there but not lowered.)

Have you tried a stud-sensor?
A metal detector should find screws/nails/brackets/wires because the walls are aluminum.
You could drill tiny test holes to find frame vs foam.
A thermal camera could give you some more clues.

...1:30 am - I'm intrigued so I went outside in my underware and checked the inside and outside of the wall. My old Black&Decker BDL110S (level/ sensor of stud/metal/wire) was lighting up mostly where I expected to find frame&wires.
.
...nap time.
.

Be careful, you don't want to be caught running around in your underwear at 1:30 in the morning carrying a stud finder.

[OneMoBear]

ROFL Bob! I was just hoping he is in Scottsdale and not Cheyenne!

Malinda

[Wavery]

After watching the TM construction video several times, I am thinking that the only "Frame" in the sidewall of the roof is the outer perimeter. There appears to be an aluminum plate right at the hinge area. Other than that, I think that I may be able to cut a hole any size that I want without interference. I'm going to take a trip to Anaheim and talk to the guys at Custom RV to see what they think.

I'm thinking a solid (non-opening) window (single pane on 2nd thought) to keep the weight down and increase the strength.

http://www.trailmanor.com/WebDocs/Media/index08.html

I like the concept and I bet you are correct that the aluminum/foam/aluminum is the structural member supporting the wall and probably lacks specific aluminum studs. My concern would be compromising the strength by removing that much of the wall. It's getting skinny by the door....I guess you might have a shot if you used an industrial adhesive that made the glass one with the wall.....Maybe the size of the windows the factory puts in are regulated by cost...maybe regulated by a CADD design and stress analysis. Maybe a call into the engineers would be worth the time..

[Wavery]

I wouldn't even want to get closer to the door opening. I would use the exact same line as the original window for the left side and top.

I'm thinking that a solid piece of tempered glass, in an aluminum frame (approx 48" long 27" high"), pop-riveted inside and out, would be just as strong as that Styrofoam cored aluminum. However, it would be significantly heavier.

I will have to shop around for the size window that I want and get a weight before contacting Custom RV.