Refrigerator Reset and Powering With Inverter While Towing

[FlyboyTR]

We just completed another 6,300 mile trip with the TM (returned home yesterday). I wanted to update you on what I tried...

From my previous thread about my refrigerator woes, I did this. I removed the unit completely (not that difficult) and then flipped it upside down for two days. Then turned it right side up and reinstalled it. This is something I have read/heard about for decades. Somehow over time the liquid ammonia and the hydrogen gas get blended and things do not work well. For details on this, see the link below.

https://www.rvtravel.com/does-your-r...urp-that-baby/

Anyway... after reinstalling it and powering it up. It cooled down fairly quickly. Don't know how long this will last...but it is MUCH better than it was.

Powering the fridge with an inverter...
I have a 1,200/2,400 watt pure sine wave inverter mounted in the engine compartment of my Ram/Cummins truck. I use this to power my air compressor for refilling the tires after airing down for off-road exploration. Plus, it comes in handy for other things as well. I have a remote control switch inside the cab. So.....I decided to try running the fridge off the inverter while towing!

I have a truck-bed tool box with an outlet panel for the 110 system. From there I ran an extension cord (12/3) to the back bumper near the Bargman plug. I then ran a 12/3 extension cord from the front of the camper, under the frame, and into the 30 amp power cable storage area in the bumper. Also, I do not route my shore power plug through the factory opening. It is all inside the bumper and the cable just hangs over the side when I am plugged in. This is much easier for coiling and storage. Anyway...using my 15 to 30 amp adapter I connect the extension cord to the trailers power cable via the adapter.

On the road...
Before closing the camper, I switch OFF the breaker for the TM/WFCO converter. I doubt that is necessary...but I felt my OEM converter was starting to fail (I was right...time to order a new one!). Once I start the truck engine, I turn on the inverter and it powers the TM fridge just as it would if it were connected to shore power. The inverter is putting out around 340 watts to run the fridge on 110 vac. When I stop the truck (engine off) I turn off the inverter switch to prevent a power drain on the two engine batteries. This actually worked very well over our 27 day 6,300 mile trip.

The fridge maintained 30-38 degrees while towing or on shore power. We had 5 nights of boondocking on BLM/NFS land where I ran the fridge on LP. After powering the TM fridge in this manor while on this trip...I believe this will be my new standard. At least I am no longer running it on LP while towing! Thanks!

[ShrimpBurrito]

What you have described has been discussed here before. While it certainly is very effective in reducing voltage losses and thus fridge performance, my concern with this method is running high voltage at not insignificant currents for such a long distance, especially when the wiring is not protected. A short while underway or after a collision could have disastrous consequences, for you and/or rescuers (especially since they would not be expecting it).

Maybe the added risk is not significant, but it’s more than I wanted to assume, especially when other alternatives exist for doing the same thing that are safer, like increasing the gauge of wire between the alternator and the TM battery, using a DC/DC converter, or even putting in the TM an inverter like what is in your truck.

Dave

[FlyboyTR]

Originally Posted by ShrimpBurrito

What you have described has been discussed here before. While it certainly is very effective in reducing voltage losses and thus fridge performance, my concern with this method is running high voltage at not insignificant currents for such a long distance, especially when the wiring is not protected. A short while underway or after a collision could have disastrous consequences, for you and/or rescuers (especially since they would not be expecting it).

Maybe the added risk is not significant, but it’s more than I wanted to assume, especially when other alternatives exist for doing the same thing that are safer, like increasing the gauge of wire between the alternator and the TM battery, using a DC/DC converter, or even putting in the TM an inverter like what is in your truck.

Dave

Dave,
Thanks for the input. The inverter I use has something very similar to a GFCI built in. Any disturbance in the electrical path causes the inverter to instantly shut down (fault mode). So, with that in mind I was not overly concerned about it. But...your point is well made!

[rickst29]

I like my way better, but it uses a TM "MPPT Solar Controller" as a prerequisite: https://www.trailmanorowners.com/for...91&postcount=1 KLPauba has it using a 24 volt boost, while I use a 36 volt boost for even less current (and a bit more power). When the batteries and/or fridge want to take it all, mine dishes out about 450 watts.

By boosting "12v" on the bargman under the TV hood (under the control of a dashboard switch, so that you can also tow other things without "magical intelligence" built into the "Trailer Battery Charge" receiver on the Trailer)... you can send large amounts of power, while keeping the current through the thin Bargman Connector wires fairly low. However, it is a bit complicated to install, and a TM Solar install (with an MPPT controller) is absolutely required.
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Very clever on restoring the "ammonia fridge" performance, congrats!