RM2333 DC loss thru wiring

01-10-2011, 08:10 AM

Hi All,

This is an old story with a new twist i.e... traveling with refer on DC and not cool inside when getting to camp ground. All readings were taken with no shore power just TM battery.

I have an old Domestic RM2333 and started chasing the DC flow path and recording all the way ( 10AWG ). The first was a 1.66vdc drop from the input line to the lead on the thermocouple which made me pull out and apart the refer until I found a the wiring running from the selector switch position 5b to the thermostat and back to 6b to be ( 16AWG ) and a .46vdc drop.

I have since replaced the 16AWG with 10AWG and improved the loss to just .19vdc which is good.

Next I replaced the 10AWG running to/from the fuse box with 8AWG and now it has a drop of .43vdc from line in to thermocouple. Just in the TM I've gained a +1.23vdc throughput for the refer.

Now for the road test phase or simulated in driveway with a DC power source.
HAHAHAHA I'm having toooooo much fun. HAHAHAHA

Barb&Tim · 01-10-2011, 08:51 AM

Nice work

If you have some extra 8AWG, you might consider replacing that fairly long 10AWG going from the converter (-) DC to the refrigerator.

Tim

**ShrimpBurrito** · 01-10-2011, 10:14 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Barb&Tim

If you have some extra 8AWG, you might consider replacing that fairly long 10AWG going from the converter (-) DC to the refrigerator.

I did this, and IIRC, I squeezed out about 0.5v, which is significant.

Dave

01-10-2011, 01:48 PM

Hi Tim and Dave,

Thanks I did replace 2 lines the +/- coming from the converter/fuse box to the refer and it was fun tracing it through the cabinets. Now it's time for the switch / box install to have an remote shut off for the refer and fan.

Have a great day
Bob

Barb&Tim · 01-10-2011, 05:56 PM

Just for trivia, if you had parallel wired the 8AWG and the 10AWG, you would have ended up with an equivalent 6AWG.

Tim

**ShrimpBurrito** · 01-10-2011, 06:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Barb&Tim

Just for trivia, if you had parallel wired the 8AWG and the 10AWG, you would have ended up with an equivalent 6AWG.

Tim

Thanks for the info....that's what I did.

Dave

scrubjaysnest · 01-10-2011, 06:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ShrimpBurrito

Thanks for the info....that's what I did.

Dave

Tim and Dave,
That is exactly my plan also, just parallel the 10 with 8 gauge that came in on saturday. My set up will be a little different as we keep a deep cycle in the TV to swap with the one in the TM as needed or run a trolling motor on the boat. I plan on running the 8 gauge in parallel with my current feed to the back up deep cycle and then from there to the TM. I'll use the battery isolator to separate the TV cranking battery from the deep cycles.

ken